Alan

Sam,
Take the fixture out and check it - likely the switch is broken or the connection to the brown/white wire has fallen off...

I suspect you need a new light fixture... after a while the heat makes them brittle and the connectors/switch parts break off...

Alan

atb

Note that if you adjust the hatch motor too far away from the hatch prawl, the auto-off function on the interior lights will not work.

cpayne

I looked through hatch threads. My Interior lights work properly , Is it safe to assume its not a fuse? I don't hear the motor working at all.
If there is a testing procedure for the motor outlined somewhere could someone point me to that thread?

Mrmerlin

before you go on a hunt for the hatch motor,
first test the pull switches they have a habit of internal shorting this will blow the fuse when the **** is pulled.
Test for continuity through both pins with the **** pulled, then test for grounding of either pin to the **** shaft if this is grounded the switch has failed.

To remove the connectors from the switch simply slide the plastic on the connector back a bit from the switch, this unlocks the connector from the switch.

To remove the **** pull on it then insert a drillbit into the hole in the shaft and turn it off CCW

If the switch checks good then check the other side if both are good replace the fuse and check that you have power at the swiches,

then check the motor connections ,

dont forget to replace the 1 amp fuse as well this is for the motor to cycle after the switch is pulled.

What happens inside the pull switch is the phenolic spacer cracks off and then grounds the shaft to the switch housing you can fix it if your crafty,
i used carpet thread and wrapped it around the where the old spacer went.

cpayne

I'll give it a whirl tomorrow and hope its simple.

thanks

Mrmerlin

to get to the inside of the switch if it has shorted you have to bend back the 4 tabs

cpayne

Here are some pics. I'm making a little progress. The fuse was OK. I took it out reseated it. I have both sides working when you pull on them. Passenger side just started working after fuse reseat.
Drivers side connectors were off. I think the name I chose is approriate (The Black Pearl; notice me hidden Treasure Arggghhh!)


After connecting the wires the motor worked! Thanks MrMerlin!


The only problem now, is the hatch won't release. I checked the linkages and they seem to be intact and the motor drives the linkages just fine. I have adjusted the motor through the entire range up or down with no success.





Any thing else I can try?

Thanks

WallyP

Adjust the motor down until the motor just begins to labor as the link operates the latch, then go back up just a tiny bit. If that doesn'thelp, go back to the very early posts in this thread and look at Alan's wire tie fix.

cpayne

Well Thanks to reenlist and the wealth of knowledge from this thread and advise from Alan, MrMerlin, Wally P. I have repaired my release *****, and motorized rear hatch. I thought that I would add to Alan's great write up and pictures.
I was a little unsure of where to place the ties above. This is for all the Noobs like myself that need extra hand holding.
http://picasaweb.google.com/cpayne.f...55263323286354

http://picasaweb.google.com/cpayne.f...55249841987218

ilikebig928butts

I just "fixed" this too using some cut up plastic water bottle. Mine's sure a fugly fix, but I don't have to get out to pop the trunk anymore. I think someone else in the forum suggested using pieces of plastic water bottle. I thought I'd post this up for posterity.
I basically just unscrewed the hex bolts of the receiver and shimmied the piece of plastic as pictured and voila, the hatch works.
And, oh yeah, make sure the both courtesy light door switches are working properly. Otherwise, it won't make lick of diff.

grepin

Hi everyone.

I am working through this myself. I have now got my electronic latch working and it releases. New plastic receiver guide cable ties etc. However it doesn't park. My car is an 84 model and I cant see a fuse for the tail gate park. Fuse 26 in mine is for lights. Is there an in line fuse? I think Wally mentioned this. It is interesting that my brown and white wire is broken off under the latch receiver. I will try and fix that. From what I have read this should stop it from working all together not the park issue. I will also open the motor and check the park gap. In addition now that I replace the hatch receiver liner my key wont unlock the tail gate any more. Before I guess it was all loose so would work. It only turns right about a quarter of a turn (is this correct) the white latch piece doesn't quite go all the way in. Might be an alignment thing to still play with. I will probably get a new lock plastic latch part as well.

Thanks

Greg

grepin

Actually found a blown fuse near the electrical plug. First thing to try. However not sure what it is. Has M0.8/250C written on it. Is that 0.8 amps

Alan

Yes 800mA (0.8A).Fuse on the CE panel started '85. The fuse controls the parking circuit.

Alan

grepin

Nah its back at the motor in line. A small barrel fuse in a holder. My car is an 84. Well Nov 83 actually. I don't have any fuses on the CE that relate to a parking motor.

Alan

Yes that's why its back there - the 1A fuse on the CE panel didn't start until 1985. If your parking circuit doesn't work and the fuse was blown - that's likely why...

Alan