I have finally found a MAF which I can use to replace my AFM (on the wrong side of the system...) on the car.

I have decided to go with a pro-flow 75 mm Bullet. This sensor is a hot wire sensor, which can be used to support up to 600 HP. Since I will be in the 400-450 HP range, this will be perfect. The guts are Hitachi.

I am choosing Pro-Flow, because of their ability to give me voltage vs. mass flow (air flow) for both the new MAF unit as well as the old AFM. This is a critical piece which is essential to get the car up and running without major headaches. I would have loved to use a stock Bosch unit, but try finding any flow data on them. Bosch is very tight withg their information.

For those of you considering converting the early L-jet cars to MAF, well after pro-flow has my AFM, they will have a stock curve for the unit, so is is highly possible that pro-flow might be able to do a conversion for these normally aspirated cars pretty easily.

 

Cool.

Can you get a reference number or codeword 'Bastard' so that we can easily order using your saved baseline?

 

I'll see what can be worked out. If we are slick about this, an amplifier circuit straight out of the new calibrated MAF could be a direct plug in replacement.

 

What about the air temp sensor?

Will it be tied to a fixed value resistor like the basic Split Sec, or a new sensor?

 

Let me know if you want my conversion kit for the entire set up. This would allow for a plug and play installation of the MAF. otherwise, you will have to use a hodge podge of adapters and rid yourself of the very effective stock air box.

(both mark anderson and myself have tested the stock air box against really good cone filters only to find a 7hp drop compared to the stock box with a KN insert.)

This kit would include the machined adapter to the stock US "U" and the euro air box that adapts perfectly to a round MAF.

Let me know.

 

Let me know if you want my conversion kit for the entire set up. This would allow for a plug and play installation of the MAF. otherwise, you will have to use a hodge podge of adapters and rid yourself of the very effective stock air box.

(both mark anderson and myself have tested the stock air box against really good cone filters only to find a 7hp drop compared to the stock box with a KN insert.)

This kit would include the machined adapter to the stock US "U" and the euro air box that adapts perfectly to a round MAF.

Let me know.

 

Thanks for the offer Mark, but my car is so modified and wired already, that my MAF will reside up front by the Radiator...that is where the main pipe coming off my stock air box resides before it splits ang goes to each turbocharger.

I agree, keeping the stock airbox is a must, becasue of its ability to filter large amounts of air as well as draw cooler air into the engine. Putting a large K&N cone would be a big mistake, because it would be in the heat soaked engine bay. I think the 928s induction and filter system is one of the best I have ever seen.

I will use a new temperature sensor, maybe in the MAF, or the airbox and then feed this back to the L-jet. I could get tricky and take it out of the old AFM?

It all works on paper and Pro-M is looking into flowing my stock AFM.

Time will tell...

 

No problem. Let us know how it turns out.

Your right about the stock air box, kind of amazing, as most air boxes are restrictive. I would have bet when I did my dyno run that the cone filter i tested , included a bell mouthed internal inlet in the filter, would have been much better than the stock air box. Forget about hot air, as it was with the hood open on the dyno. someone on the list has already adapted a hood for a out of engine bay cone filter set up.

Anyway, the very efficient designed cone filter proved to loose me around 4-5 hp. On mark andersons car, i think even more.

Good luck with the project. too bad the huntley racing with the piggy back didnt work for me. would have been interesting to see the gains.
I still have all the mechanical adapters if they ever get their system to work.

MK