Remote Entry install at SITM
#46
The alternating central lock button function is a problem - as is the fact that it is anyway non-operational with the ignition off - it only locks the car in that mode - not very helpful...
On a Ford/Chevvy or similar the 2 way (lock/inactive/unlock) button is a possibility - on a 928 you need the individual lock/unlock wires to the locks (commonly available at the alarm or central lock modules)...
Keyless entry is easy to install on any electric lock 928 - but all the existing equipment has to work correctly... This won't solve a lock or hatch opener that already doesn't work...
Alan
#47
Where do you get the idea that a 928 central locking button is the way to go - it isn't - it won't work... I post because its likely misleading to others to mention it...
Neither of these cars has a cental lock button to tie into like the instructions say.
Thanks
#48
Well I suppose it would be because you said
Folks with 928's with central lock buttons may think thats the best way to install one...
This seems to be a rather odd way of asking for help...
Alan
Neither of these cars has a cental lock button to tie into like the instructions say.
This seems to be a rather odd way of asking for help...
Alan
#51
You should only need to hook up the included antenna, power(30) & ground(31). Lock & Unlock for basic function - ignition and interior lights are not needed at this point
On an 81 & 83 you will need to configure for positive & short locking pulses. If your unit doesn't support positive locking you will need 2 additional SPDT relays for this.
Try to see what the pulse lengths are for locking - its important they not be too long...
You will need to connect to the 2 central locking wires between the doors - you only need to attach in one place so nearest to where you install the unit. You need the Yellow & Green/Black wires that go to the locks - you will probably have to open up the doors to find them (they are not available at the central electric panel).
Connect lock & unlock outputs (or the equiv. relay outputs) to these - I'm not sure which way is which - I suspect green/black is unlock - try it and swap them if needed. The feeder to the locking relays (or whole unit if positive is configurable) should be fused with a 1A fuse.
Get this working first... Assume you don't have an electric hatch opener on either car? What else do you want to do - horn honk for confirm, lights flash, interior light control?
Alan
On an 81 & 83 you will need to configure for positive & short locking pulses. If your unit doesn't support positive locking you will need 2 additional SPDT relays for this.
Try to see what the pulse lengths are for locking - its important they not be too long...
You will need to connect to the 2 central locking wires between the doors - you only need to attach in one place so nearest to where you install the unit. You need the Yellow & Green/Black wires that go to the locks - you will probably have to open up the doors to find them (they are not available at the central electric panel).
Connect lock & unlock outputs (or the equiv. relay outputs) to these - I'm not sure which way is which - I suspect green/black is unlock - try it and swap them if needed. The feeder to the locking relays (or whole unit if positive is configurable) should be fused with a 1A fuse.
Get this working first... Assume you don't have an electric hatch opener on either car? What else do you want to do - horn honk for confirm, lights flash, interior light control?
Alan
#52
Thanks, I spent most of yesterday fooling w/this and I was really at my end of it. Didn't mean to sound short or anything; it would be very difficult to maintain these cars as 'easily' as it is without Rennlist and the members on it.
I think I am hooking it up like you say, but I just may need the extra relays. The yellow & green/black wires lock/unlock when you ground them. I assume the remote is supposed to ground them thru itself.
I will try again later, since your advice is similar to the instructions but car specific, I should be able to figure it out.
Thanks
I think I am hooking it up like you say, but I just may need the extra relays. The yellow & green/black wires lock/unlock when you ground them. I assume the remote is supposed to ground them thru itself.
I will try again later, since your advice is similar to the instructions but car specific, I should be able to figure it out.
Thanks
#53
Actually I was mistaken - negative locking is needed - most KE's can support this directly (I was looking at some diagrams that don't agree with the factory wiring diagrams... ! Since you've tested it you know which is which already...?
I have never installed one on a pre '85 car - but it should be no major problem to get it working.
The wire colors and other instructions I mentioned are correct - go for the shortest pulses possible on your system - and only go longer of that doesn't work...
Alan
I have never installed one on a pre '85 car - but it should be no major problem to get it working.
The wire colors and other instructions I mentioned are correct - go for the shortest pulses possible on your system - and only go longer of that doesn't work...
Alan