CIS K-JET Cold Start Issue
06-20-2007, 11:11 AM
#76
Intermediate
Join Date: Aug 2006
Location: Kennewick, WA
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Brad - It was cool hangin' out with you and the "Banana Boat" last night. Must feel pretty good to have this finally nailed down. I can vouch for the silicone hoses -- very tight fit and excellent ridgidity.
07-05-2007, 07:33 PM
#77
Addict
Rennlist Member
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Brad,
I was watching your thread and finally had a chance to take some of your learnings and apply it to the SilverBulit. I replaced the Thermotine switch (actually looks more like a sensor next to the thermostat at the housing) and it cured my poor cold running as well!!
It drove completely different. Lot's more power when cold and started right up on first crank.
Now, I'm not sure if it's cured my intermittant poor running condition
(when hot) as I didn't drive it long enough to find out, but for now, it's running a hell of alot better!!!
Thanks for posting all the good info brutha!!
I was watching your thread and finally had a chance to take some of your learnings and apply it to the SilverBulit. I replaced the Thermotine switch (actually looks more like a sensor next to the thermostat at the housing) and it cured my poor cold running as well!!
It drove completely different. Lot's more power when cold and started right up on first crank. Now, I'm not sure if it's cured my intermittant poor running condition
(when hot) as I didn't drive it long enough to find out, but for now, it's running a hell of alot better!!!
Thanks for posting all the good info brutha!!
07-07-2007, 01:39 PM
#78
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
Originally Posted by Chuck Schreiber
Brad,
Thanks for posting all the good info brutha!!
Thanks for posting all the good info brutha!!
01-04-2010, 12:37 PM
#79
Sorry to bring up an "old" tread. I am wondering if Checkmate and chuck problem fixed till now?? I am having the same issue as checkmate and hope to replace the thermotime switch soon.
Thanks
Thanks
01-04-2010, 02:18 PM
#82
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
Good luck!
01-04-2010, 03:49 PM
#83
01-04-2010, 04:58 PM
#84
Rennlist Member
You shouldnt need to remove the thermotime to check it. There is a very good post by Wally somewhere documenting the readings you should see on the 3 pins at what temps and times. If you look closely the pins are labelled - G and something else comes to mind. There might even be a mark giving time it should take to warm up due to bi-metallic strip...do a search.
jp 83 Euro S AT 52k
jp 83 Euro S AT 52k
03-03-2020, 10:29 AM
#85
1st Gear
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Doesn't sound like the WUR is your problem. If this was the case you would have power issues, and based on your diecription your shark seems to run fine during warm up as well.
The problem seems to be in getting fuel to the intake during the first start. OR you may have a leaking injector. You mentioned changing the fuel pumps and filter recently. Did your issues start after this?
I'll take a guess, but once you put your gages on the system you should have a good idea. My gut tells me that either your cold start valve is not working or your fuel accumulator is bad. Cold start issues could be with the valve itself or with the thermal sensor as you mentioned. Your accumulator could be leaking past the diaphram or at a fitting that you loosened during your filter change.
The problem seems to be in getting fuel to the intake during the first start. OR you may have a leaking injector. You mentioned changing the fuel pumps and filter recently. Did your issues start after this?
I'll take a guess, but once you put your gages on the system you should have a good idea. My gut tells me that either your cold start valve is not working or your fuel accumulator is bad. Cold start issues could be with the valve itself or with the thermal sensor as you mentioned. Your accumulator could be leaking past the diaphram or at a fitting that you loosened during your filter change.
On that note, I own a Golf MK2 GTI 1.8i 8 valve and still have a Kjet system on it, but somehow my Cold start injector doesn't get power, and the mechanic I have working on her apparently checked all fuses, but to no avail. Butterfly is fine, as the petrol does get distributed, but the cold start injector doesn't open or close, iow the car doesn't start at all.
Please advise what I can do.
I'm open to all advice I can get
03-03-2020, 11:14 AM
#86
Rennlist Member
If the cold start injector doesn't get power, can you confirm that the car starts if you give the cokd start injector some power manually using an external circuit with simple pushbutton activation?
03-03-2020, 11:18 AM
#87
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
Make sure the CS injector is good.
Make sure you are getting power at the panel.
Isolate where the power stops. (Could be a broken wire)
Make sure you are getting power at the panel.
Isolate where the power stops. (Could be a broken wire)
03-03-2020, 04:34 PM
#88
Rennlist Member
CIS Gurus,
Over the last few months, I've noticed it's getting harder and harder to start my car in the morning. For example, it took atleast 5 minutes this morning and about about 8-10 short cranks before it caught. Once it catches, the Aux Air kicks in and raises the idle for two minutes. After that, the car runs GREAT. Idles perfectly at 800-850 RPMs. I have no power issues or apparent power loss or dead spots. I have no issues with starting warm, even after having the car sit at work for 4 hours to grab lunch or leave at the end of the day. One crank, and off she goes. However, it's overnight which seems to be the cultprit. I thought it might be the battery, a dead cell or something even though I just replaced her 6 months ago. So after two days of sitting in the garage, I checked the battery with a VM. 12V exactly. Ok, that appears to be good. After reading several posts, I bought the bosch blue book and a set of gauges to get some accurate readings, but I'm hoping it doesn't lead to a new WUR but something easier to resolve.
Items recently replaced: Both fuel pumps and fuel filter.
Ok, so here's my order of troubleshooting:
- Thermo switch -
- Cold Start Valve
- Ignition Coil
Any other inital tidbits? Thoughts?
Over the last few months, I've noticed it's getting harder and harder to start my car in the morning. For example, it took atleast 5 minutes this morning and about about 8-10 short cranks before it caught. Once it catches, the Aux Air kicks in and raises the idle for two minutes. After that, the car runs GREAT. Idles perfectly at 800-850 RPMs. I have no power issues or apparent power loss or dead spots. I have no issues with starting warm, even after having the car sit at work for 4 hours to grab lunch or leave at the end of the day. One crank, and off she goes. However, it's overnight which seems to be the cultprit. I thought it might be the battery, a dead cell or something even though I just replaced her 6 months ago. So after two days of sitting in the garage, I checked the battery with a VM. 12V exactly. Ok, that appears to be good. After reading several posts, I bought the bosch blue book and a set of gauges to get some accurate readings, but I'm hoping it doesn't lead to a new WUR but something easier to resolve.
Items recently replaced: Both fuel pumps and fuel filter.
Ok, so here's my order of troubleshooting:
- Thermo switch -
- Cold Start Valve
- Ignition Coil
Any other inital tidbits? Thoughts?
if your injectors are leaking and/or opening pressure of each injector is not correct, spray pattern is not correct and coldstart will be comprimised
kr
Gerrit
03-03-2020, 05:20 PM
#89
Rennlist Member
Re the Golf - IIRC on a 928 the CS injector is dependant on power coming through the thermo time switch, and only while cranking....check the thermo-time.
jp 83 Euro S AT 57k
jp 83 Euro S AT 57k
