CIS K-JET Cold Start Issue
#61
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
No. I am not running any cats. headers, straight pipes....only.
#62
Burning Brakes
Originally Posted by checkmate1996
No. I am not running any cats. headers, straight pipes....only.
#63
I had a similar Problem with my Euro 928 (1981). Took a number of trys to get it to start. I had to give it a small amount of gas for a minute or so..then it was fine. Turned out being the Warm-up Reg.
Had mine refurbed.
Had mine refurbed.
#64
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
Update 6/14
Ok, I just got a brand NEW switch out of the box PLUS two other used switches.
Results:
BRAND NEW SWITCH:
- W & G Connected together- (WSM=20-40 OHMS (Mine = 35.6)) (In-Spec)
- W to Ground - (WSM=0 OHMS (Mine = 0.9))
- G to Ground - (WSM=0 OHMS (Mine = 36.0))
Switch#2:
- W & G Connected together- (WSM=20-40 OHMS (Mine = 39.3)) (In-Spec)
- W to Ground - (WSM=0 OHMS (Mine = 2.8)) (Out of Spec)
- G to Ground - (WSM=0 OHMS (Mine = 37.5)) (Out of Spec)
Switch#3
- W & G Connected together- (WSM=20-40 OHMS (Mine = 38.4)) (In-Spec)
- W to Ground - (WSM=0 OHMS (Mine = 7.9)) (Out of Spec)
- G to Ground - (WSM=0 OHMS (Mine = 38.6)) (Out of Spec)
So, is the WSM on CRACK? 3 switches can't lie.
Switch#2 seems reasonably in check. I hate to spend $80 if I don't have too...now I"m really confused...or is there that much difference between 0.9 and 2.8?
Results:
BRAND NEW SWITCH:
- W & G Connected together- (WSM=20-40 OHMS (Mine = 35.6)) (In-Spec)
- W to Ground - (WSM=0 OHMS (Mine = 0.9))
- G to Ground - (WSM=0 OHMS (Mine = 36.0))
Switch#2:
- W & G Connected together- (WSM=20-40 OHMS (Mine = 39.3)) (In-Spec)
- W to Ground - (WSM=0 OHMS (Mine = 2.8)) (Out of Spec)
- G to Ground - (WSM=0 OHMS (Mine = 37.5)) (Out of Spec)
Switch#3
- W & G Connected together- (WSM=20-40 OHMS (Mine = 38.4)) (In-Spec)
- W to Ground - (WSM=0 OHMS (Mine = 7.9)) (Out of Spec)
- G to Ground - (WSM=0 OHMS (Mine = 38.6)) (Out of Spec)
So, is the WSM on CRACK? 3 switches can't lie.
Switch#2 seems reasonably in check. I hate to spend $80 if I don't have too...now I"m really confused...or is there that much difference between 0.9 and 2.8?
#65
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
Originally Posted by telidor99
. I had to give it a small amount of gas for a minute or so..then it was fine. Turned out being the Warm-up Reg.
Had mine refurbed.
Had mine refurbed.
#66
If your meter is reading correct (appears to be since the connector to connector is in spec) the new one is also bad. It won't be the first time a new part was defective.
Dennis
Dennis
#67
Instructor
Originally Posted by checkmate1996
So, is the WSM on CRACK?
Originally Posted by checkmate1996
Switch#2 seems reasonably in check. I hate to spend $80 if I don't have too...now I"m really confused...or is there that much difference between 0.9 and 2.8?
#68
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
Update 061907 - Stick a fork in it!
OK. I think we have come to the end of the road with this saga.
I put the new thermotine switch in, filled all the fluids back up and VOILA, it turned over in 2 seconds after sitting for 2.5 weeks!!!! I tested it again today after sitting for two days, and again, it turned over in less than 2 seconds.
I think I'm going to call this mystery solved.
What did I learn: 36,1,36 are good measurements to go by! Don't RTFM on this one!!
I also embedded an updated shot of my engine put back together with upgraded silicone hoses and refinished *EDIT* stiffening brace. Thanks for all of the help!
I put the new thermotine switch in, filled all the fluids back up and VOILA, it turned over in 2 seconds after sitting for 2.5 weeks!!!! I tested it again today after sitting for two days, and again, it turned over in less than 2 seconds.
I think I'm going to call this mystery solved.
What did I learn: 36,1,36 are good measurements to go by! Don't RTFM on this one!!
I also embedded an updated shot of my engine put back together with upgraded silicone hoses and refinished *EDIT* stiffening brace. Thanks for all of the help!
Last edited by checkmate1996; 06-20-2007 at 10:27 AM. Reason: Clarity
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Cagliere (02-21-2021)
#70
It appears the design of the switch has been modified to ground internally rather than relying on a wire connection. This is alright as long as nothing else is being powered on the negative side of the switch. Did we miss an update to the WSM?
Dennis
Dennis
#71
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
Originally Posted by hupp
Checkmate,
Where did you buy the hoses?
Where did you buy the hoses?
Boostcontroller.com. Good prices and great service. Everything is in METRIC!!
The hoses fit AWESOME and take considerable force to pull off.
Good luck!
#72
Rennlist Member
Hupp, thats not the 'anti-sway' bar as I know it. My anti-sway bar is connected to the lower suspension arm and the body underneath....A stiffening brace is more what it is.
jp 83 Euro S AT 50k
jp 83 Euro S AT 50k
#73
Burning Brakes
Originally Posted by jpitman2
Hupp, thats not the 'anti-sway' bar as I know it. My anti-sway bar is connected to the lower suspension arm and the body underneath....A stiffening brace is more what it is.
jp 83 Euro S AT 50k
jp 83 Euro S AT 50k
I'm with you on that one, but take a look at checkmate's comment with the engine pic......
He know's what he's talking about though...
#74
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
I'm learning everyday...if stiffening brace is the right terminology...then I want to use it!
#75
It is called a shock brace and it is a MUST. There have been instances when raising the front end of the car without the brace has resulted in a broken windshield. Also, with that much movement, your alignment would be adversely affected.
Dennis
Dennis