CIS K-JET Cold Start Issue
#61
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No. I am not running any cats. headers, straight pipes....only.
#62
Burning Brakes
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Originally Posted by checkmate1996
No. I am not running any cats. headers, straight pipes....only.
#63
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I had a similar Problem with my Euro 928 (1981). Took a number of trys to get it to start. I had to give it a small amount of gas for a minute or so..then it was fine. Turned out being the Warm-up Reg.
Had mine refurbed.
Had mine refurbed.
#64
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Ok, I just got a brand NEW switch out of the box PLUS two other used switches.
Results:
BRAND NEW SWITCH:
- W & G Connected together- (WSM=20-40 OHMS (Mine = 35.6)) (In-Spec)
- W to Ground - (WSM=0 OHMS (Mine = 0.9))
- G to Ground - (WSM=0 OHMS (Mine = 36.0))
Switch#2:
- W & G Connected together- (WSM=20-40 OHMS (Mine = 39.3)) (In-Spec)
- W to Ground - (WSM=0 OHMS (Mine = 2.8)) (Out of Spec)
- G to Ground - (WSM=0 OHMS (Mine = 37.5)) (Out of Spec)
Switch#3
- W & G Connected together- (WSM=20-40 OHMS (Mine = 38.4)) (In-Spec)
- W to Ground - (WSM=0 OHMS (Mine = 7.9)) (Out of Spec)
- G to Ground - (WSM=0 OHMS (Mine = 38.6)) (Out of Spec)
So, is the WSM on CRACK? 3 switches can't lie.
Switch#2 seems reasonably in check. I hate to spend $80 if I don't have too...now I"m really confused...or is there that much difference between 0.9 and 2.8?
Results:
BRAND NEW SWITCH:
- W & G Connected together- (WSM=20-40 OHMS (Mine = 35.6)) (In-Spec)
- W to Ground - (WSM=0 OHMS (Mine = 0.9))
- G to Ground - (WSM=0 OHMS (Mine = 36.0))
Switch#2:
- W & G Connected together- (WSM=20-40 OHMS (Mine = 39.3)) (In-Spec)
- W to Ground - (WSM=0 OHMS (Mine = 2.8)) (Out of Spec)
- G to Ground - (WSM=0 OHMS (Mine = 37.5)) (Out of Spec)
Switch#3
- W & G Connected together- (WSM=20-40 OHMS (Mine = 38.4)) (In-Spec)
- W to Ground - (WSM=0 OHMS (Mine = 7.9)) (Out of Spec)
- G to Ground - (WSM=0 OHMS (Mine = 38.6)) (Out of Spec)
So, is the WSM on CRACK? 3 switches can't lie.
Switch#2 seems reasonably in check. I hate to spend $80 if I don't have too...now I"m really confused...or is there that much difference between 0.9 and 2.8?
#65
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Originally Posted by telidor99
. I had to give it a small amount of gas for a minute or so..then it was fine. Turned out being the Warm-up Reg.
Had mine refurbed.
Had mine refurbed.
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#66
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If your meter is reading correct (appears to be since the connector to connector is in spec) the new one is also bad. It won't be the first time a new part was defective.
Dennis
Dennis
#67
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Originally Posted by checkmate1996
So, is the WSM on CRACK?
![Big Grin](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/smilies/biggrin.gif)
Originally Posted by checkmate1996
Switch#2 seems reasonably in check. I hate to spend $80 if I don't have too...now I"m really confused...or is there that much difference between 0.9 and 2.8?
#68
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OK. I think we have come to the end of the road with this saga.
I put the new thermotine switch in, filled all the fluids back up and VOILA, it turned over in 2 seconds after sitting for 2.5 weeks!!!! I tested it again today after sitting for two days, and again, it turned over in less than 2 seconds.
I think I'm going to call this mystery solved.
What did I learn: 36,1,36 are good measurements to go by! Don't RTFM on this one!!![Wink](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/smilies/wink.gif)
I also embedded an updated shot of my engine put back together with upgraded silicone hoses and refinished *EDIT* stiffening brace. Thanks for all of the help!
I put the new thermotine switch in, filled all the fluids back up and VOILA, it turned over in 2 seconds after sitting for 2.5 weeks!!!! I tested it again today after sitting for two days, and again, it turned over in less than 2 seconds.
I think I'm going to call this mystery solved.
What did I learn: 36,1,36 are good measurements to go by! Don't RTFM on this one!!
![Wink](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/smilies/wink.gif)
I also embedded an updated shot of my engine put back together with upgraded silicone hoses and refinished *EDIT* stiffening brace. Thanks for all of the help!
![](http://www.netopsys.com/928/pics/engine061707.jpg)
Last edited by checkmate1996; 06-20-2007 at 10:27 AM. Reason: Clarity
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Cagliere (02-21-2021)
#70
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It appears the design of the switch has been modified to ground internally rather than relying on a wire connection. This is alright as long as nothing else is being powered on the negative side of the switch. Did we miss an update to the WSM?
Dennis
Dennis
#71
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Originally Posted by hupp
Checkmate,
Where did you buy the hoses?
Where did you buy the hoses?
Boostcontroller.com. Good prices and great service. Everything is in METRIC!!
![rockon](https://rennlist.com/forums/graemlins/rockon.gif)
The hoses fit AWESOME and take considerable force to pull off.
Good luck!
#72
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Hupp, thats not the 'anti-sway' bar as I know it. My anti-sway bar is connected to the lower suspension arm and the body underneath....A stiffening brace is more what it is.
jp 83 Euro S AT 50k
jp 83 Euro S AT 50k
#73
Burning Brakes
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Originally Posted by jpitman2
Hupp, thats not the 'anti-sway' bar as I know it. My anti-sway bar is connected to the lower suspension arm and the body underneath....A stiffening brace is more what it is.
jp 83 Euro S AT 50k
jp 83 Euro S AT 50k
I'm with you on that one, but take a look at checkmate's comment with the engine pic......
He know's what he's talking about though...
#74
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I'm learning everyday...if stiffening brace is the right terminology...then I want to use it!
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#75
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It is called a shock brace and it is a MUST. There have been instances when raising the front end of the car without the brace has resulted in a broken windshield. Also, with that much movement, your alignment would be adversely affected.
Dennis
Dennis