Well I have done a few searches and checked a few web sites but have yet to find a write up on replacing the rear cam seals while the engine is still in the car.

Can it be done?
Does anyone know of a write-up they can point me to?
It sure does not look like there is room for tapping them in.

I just did the front so I know the rear need replacement too; I could see oil coming down the back of the block from the seals when I was installing the flywheel lock.

I am installing the updated Cam Seals (the newer two part seal).

Thanks in advance!

 

Ive done the rear seals on my 85, it can be done! You will need a lot of patience, be able to reach those rear cams from the top and the bottom. I removed the heatshields around the exaust for more room for my arms, hands. I used a 18" cats paw and long screw driver to help push in place, lots of knuckle busters! I also used Hondabond-NO LEAKS! Good luck!

Dan

 

Thanks Dan, I was thinking some type of leverage would be needed to push them in, like I said it does look tight, maybe a small block of wood.
Thanks for the suggestion of removing the heat shelds too!

 

I have never replaced one but couldn't you make it work with a small C-clamp?

 

I don’t see what a small clamp would clamp to, maybe a really big clamp, like a carpenters pipe clamp, there would be a lot of stuff in the way though.

You see it would have to squeeze them into the head. This pic is of the front, the back looks pretty much the same, only there is no shaft sticking out for the cam drive gear. So in the back there are four black seals, just like the two in the front.

Thanks for the reply

 

Any chance of inserting a large washer or something between the seal and keeper and then pushing it into place with pressure via the keeper bolt? Just guessing here. I haven't actually looked back there to see what we're up against. So to speak.

 

I think that would break the keeper arm, or not push them in corectly to seat in true.
Thanks Charly, Dan's right it is knuckle busting tight!

 

OK, How about a block of wood against the firewall with a jerry rigged levering device against the seal?
I just like trying to come up with hillbilly solutions to hi-tech problems.

 

Be very careful that it does not **** as you put it in. Mine did and when I pryed the other side in to straighten it, it tore the rubber seal. I bought a new one to replace but I can't get it out. The old style plastic ones are much easier to remove. Fortunately, it does not leak so I left it.

 

I did mine a couple of years ago on my MY85. I used a block of wood on the firewall, took a couple of large washers that were just a little bit bigger than the seal and placed them against the seal. Then I used a prybar to press in, worked like a charm. If I remember right, I did one from the bottom and one from the top. I figured by using the large washer, I would not press the seal in to far or damage it and it worked. Good luck.

 

Thanks Glen, looks like a new tool is needed for a common problem here

Charley suggestion has got me thinking of a rig (plate) that would mount between the two seal bolt holes and have a screw type of press that would push them in... hmmm, Big Dave's engine is out and or he might have an old head arround too.
Well I'm going to sleep on this one guys... 5:am comes way to soon

 

Yes.

The easiest way is to remove the valve covers which is the part of the job that will take the longest. Then, remove the cam housings on the end; once removed, it's easy to remove/replace the cam seals.

Reinstalling, torque the cam housing bolts to 15 ft lbs, and the cam cover bolts to 7 ft lbs.

The whole job should take an hour, two at most to complete.

 

Thanks SwayBar

 

+1. He beat me to it. This is by far the easiest way to do this and will insure that the seals are seated correctly.

 

Removing cam covers on an 85-86 is problematic