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HVAC Blower Not Working

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Old Feb 28, 2003 | 12:17 AM
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Post HVAC Blower Not Working

I took the shark out for a long awaited cruise, since it was above freezing here for the first time in a while. A few days earlier, the blower fan worked perfectly. I've been running the engine and defroster weekly just to keep things moving.

I checked the relay (XXI), the fuse (17) and both seem OK. I unplugged the connector and got 14 volts on the plug when the HVAC control head is in any position, and 0 volts when it is in the "0" position. It suggests that the blower motor is shot, but I have two questions.

1) Why would I get 14 volts supplied to the blower at any speed?. Shouldn't the voldage drop for slower fan speeds? Or is it controlled by current somehow?

2) How do I remove this blower? I found one screw holding it in, on the farthest passanger side end of the blower. Shouldn't there be another screw/bolt somewhere? - Ruf
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Old Feb 28, 2003 | 06:08 AM
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I know there is a post about this somewhere.
There is a reason that the fan draws that much juice when it fails and you should also be limited to the 'one fan speed fits all syndrom'if it works at all.
Did you browse the archives and Nichols site.
I know that glitch is described on one of those two sites.
John S.
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Old Feb 28, 2003 | 10:21 AM
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The blower motor has two independent supplies, the normal fan control, and the "Defrost" position on the lever. If the blower works in the defrost position, the motor is OK, If it works in neither position, the problem is usually the motor or a connection at the motor.

Go to <a href="http://www.nichols.nu/cat05.htm" target="_blank">http://www.nichols.nu/cat05.htm</a> for detailed info.
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Old Feb 28, 2003 | 10:37 AM
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What WallyP said.........

The switch on Gretch failed and she would only blow on defrost. In 89 the switch is controlled by some sort of hardwired matrix that uses resistors to determine the current going to the fan. This piece is located outside of the firewall and you get to it by pulling the rubber boot off of the air intake duct.
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Old Feb 28, 2003 | 02:10 PM
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Thanks guys. I did check the Nichols site and got a few hints on how to proceed. In one of those procedures, it mentions a screw that's located inside the the car, above the fuse/relay panel. This is supposed to hold the fan housing in place along with a couple other screws.

I can't seem to find that one. Is it directly above the fuse panel, off the one side, near the center console??? Any hint would be nice. Also, do I really need ot remove the hood to get this thing out? - Ruf
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Old Feb 28, 2003 | 02:34 PM
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Ru,

if it is built the same way as they did in '89 you don't need to pull the hood, but you do need long skinny arms........

My wrench did it without removing the hood...
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Old Feb 28, 2003 | 02:58 PM
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Long skinny arms? Got 'em. How long of an extension are we talking about for the socket?. I would think Gretch & Helga would be imilar "under the bonnet" - Ruf
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Old Feb 28, 2003 | 03:23 PM
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Ru,

On Gretch they removed the right side windshield wiper cover. you can then see the air duct for the ventelation system. there is a rubber boot connecting it through the fire wall. My wrench seperated the boot from the duct, put his arm in and pealed the boot back to where he could see and get access to the switch matrix he was looking for (I don't know what it is called). He was able to disconnect and remove it. reverse the order to replace it. If you have any manuals they will give you more information than I can, as I am doing this from memory.....

Wish I could be of more help.

G
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Old Feb 28, 2003 | 04:32 PM
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Every little bit helps. Thanks. Hey, I was wondering,: with 2 p-cars in the stable, which do you prefer??? - Ruf
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Old Feb 28, 2003 | 10:16 PM
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I just had the motor out on my 80 two weeks ago. It was out so I could replace the vacuum unit on the flap in the passenger foot well.
Took out the fuse box cover and lower section.
Then the bolts around the grate. Including the ones in the bar bolted to the fuse box vertical mounting brackets at the rear of the grate.
Took out the two bolts that hold the vertical mounting brackets to the floor in front of the fuse box. Pulled them toward the seat to lower them and get the bar out.

Found the grate is mounted to the motor by the two allen head screws. One inside the rubber boot, the other in the front of the fan near the right fender.
AND a single bolt about 2" long thats in the front of the grate (toward the seat).

*bear with me, there's a reason I'm explaining all this*

This allowed the grate to be taken out.
The motor was no longer attached so I was able to get that out too. Through the cowl section, but it also would have come out through the foot well.

Replaced the vacuum unit, tested motor and installed the grate, fuse box brackets, cover, etc.

Went to put the motor in through the cowl. No way it would go in, with the hood on or off. It had to be slid in and turned.
With the grate in, it wouldn't go down far enough so it could be turned.

No need to go into the expletives. It hurts just to think about it.
Solution was to start from square one. Remove the fuse box cover, grate bolts,,etc.

Now,,,if someone knows a way to get the motor in and out without lowering the grate, please let Rufus know but, please, please don't tell me. I couldn't bear the anguish or embarrassment.
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Old Feb 28, 2003 | 10:20 PM
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Correction. They're phillips head screws not allen head.
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Old Mar 2, 2003 | 04:43 PM
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Problem solved Friday night. Loose connection to the blower. Bent the tabs a little to ger a more solid connection and viola! Thanks to everyone who had imput. - Ruf
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