New TBWP, It's alive... but...
#1
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
New TBWP, It's alive... but...
It’s alive... but...
Well after 5 long Saturdays I completed the TBWP job on my ’85 including all new gears & replaced all of the front Eng seals, a lot of cleaning, some repainting and a few other hoses and doodads etc., installed the battery from last fall, started the video cam said a prayer and hit the key.
She turned over a few times and… Vroom..!
As it warmed up I fed in coolant, she was a thirsty shark after being in dry dock! A few gallons later she settled down and actually sounded normal, belt tracking real good on both gears, oil press strong, temp stable at the first ¼ mark the one after the white warm-up area.
And NO warning lights!
Now the but, after it was running a bit (10/15 min) and coolant hot & steamy, I shut it down and started looking for leaks. Then I spotted one… a very slow drip…, drip of clean oil.
I first thought it was my dip stick (I did replace the o ring), but no, it was coming directly from above… the front of tensioner right where it goes into the center plastic cover!
I had filled the unit with 10w 40 using an oil can w/trigger (as a rennlister had suggested) and shot it in until I was getting no bubbles out of the right lower bleeder. Could I have over filled it?
At that point I put on the trickle charger, packed up my tools, and drove back down state.
Well at least it runs and sounds good, and I don’t see any major (OIL Seals/Water Pump) leaks or TBelt issues!
I had the pleasure of using the V1 version of 32Vr tool and now I want my own, what a truly great invention, a must have for anyone doing their own work; it quickly puts your cams in alignment w/o removing the cam covers, thanks Ken (and Andrew for the loaner).
I will run it again next weekend and see how much oil actually does leak out.
Question for the real 928gurus:
What are the issues if I run the tensioner low/dry?
I have read hear some do, I know mine was dry when it came off..!
Here are some PIC’s.
Well after 5 long Saturdays I completed the TBWP job on my ’85 including all new gears & replaced all of the front Eng seals, a lot of cleaning, some repainting and a few other hoses and doodads etc., installed the battery from last fall, started the video cam said a prayer and hit the key.
She turned over a few times and… Vroom..!
As it warmed up I fed in coolant, she was a thirsty shark after being in dry dock! A few gallons later she settled down and actually sounded normal, belt tracking real good on both gears, oil press strong, temp stable at the first ¼ mark the one after the white warm-up area.
And NO warning lights!
Now the but, after it was running a bit (10/15 min) and coolant hot & steamy, I shut it down and started looking for leaks. Then I spotted one… a very slow drip…, drip of clean oil.
I first thought it was my dip stick (I did replace the o ring), but no, it was coming directly from above… the front of tensioner right where it goes into the center plastic cover!
I had filled the unit with 10w 40 using an oil can w/trigger (as a rennlister had suggested) and shot it in until I was getting no bubbles out of the right lower bleeder. Could I have over filled it?
At that point I put on the trickle charger, packed up my tools, and drove back down state.
Well at least it runs and sounds good, and I don’t see any major (OIL Seals/Water Pump) leaks or TBelt issues!
I had the pleasure of using the V1 version of 32Vr tool and now I want my own, what a truly great invention, a must have for anyone doing their own work; it quickly puts your cams in alignment w/o removing the cam covers, thanks Ken (and Andrew for the loaner).
I will run it again next weekend and see how much oil actually does leak out.
Question for the real 928gurus:
What are the issues if I run the tensioner low/dry?
I have read hear some do, I know mine was dry when it came off..!
Here are some PIC’s.
Last edited by davek9; 05-22-2007 at 10:04 PM.
#2
Craic Head
Lifetime Rennlist
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Lifetime Rennlist
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NICE WORK!
That baby is squeaky clean! I'm afraid I can't speak from personal experience here. I've only got the one TB/WP job under my belt (although it took me two tries to get it right).
I think I have a slow leak in my tensioner too. That setup with the gasket is just not a good design IMO. It should be a closed system on one side or the other, not rely on the gasket seating perfectly the first time and sealing everything up.
I didn't think the oil was supposed to be 10w40, but I'm probably wrong there. If it were me, I'd drive it for a few weeks checking the oil each time I drove it and then redo the tensioner when it's time to check the belt tension the first time. Apparently a leaky tensioner is not uncommon and if you keep it filled up I think you'd be alright.
That baby is squeaky clean! I'm afraid I can't speak from personal experience here. I've only got the one TB/WP job under my belt (although it took me two tries to get it right).
I think I have a slow leak in my tensioner too. That setup with the gasket is just not a good design IMO. It should be a closed system on one side or the other, not rely on the gasket seating perfectly the first time and sealing everything up.
I didn't think the oil was supposed to be 10w40, but I'm probably wrong there. If it were me, I'd drive it for a few weeks checking the oil each time I drove it and then redo the tensioner when it's time to check the belt tension the first time. Apparently a leaky tensioner is not uncommon and if you keep it filled up I think you'd be alright.
#3
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
Thanks Mike, I used 10w40 as I had read tha Porsche actually changed over to regular oil from the 90w that the manual spec's.
I't is easer to get in and others here use it w/o issue, also as it has no function other than transfiering heat to the heat reactive washers IMHO it should makes no diff.
Dave K9
I't is easer to get in and others here use it w/o issue, also as it has no function other than transfiering heat to the heat reactive washers IMHO it should makes no diff.
Dave K9
#4
Burning Brakes
Congratulations - sounds like a major milestone.
My project took a lot longer, but I did the intake refurbish at the same time so the project really dragged out.
Keep an eye on the oil leak until you have confirmation where it is actually coming from. In my case it was a coolant leak that showed up a few miles down the road. I swear I looked at the hoses very carefully but upon further inspection it is clear that I was not looking close enough. So now I am sidelined waiting for parts again.
Keep us posted.
My project took a lot longer, but I did the intake refurbish at the same time so the project really dragged out.
Keep an eye on the oil leak until you have confirmation where it is actually coming from. In my case it was a coolant leak that showed up a few miles down the road. I swear I looked at the hoses very carefully but upon further inspection it is clear that I was not looking close enough. So now I am sidelined waiting for parts again.
Keep us posted.
#6
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
I had to use wheel pullers on the Balancer, main belt drive and oil drive gears. buy the time I sourced the puller and made it fit within the work area (shaft too long) another day shot!
Thanks again guy's!
Thanks again guy's!
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#8
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
Yes it would.. BIG GRIN!
I'll put some miles on her this weekend up North near the shark tank, before I hit the interstate and drive it the 225mi's down here for the summer.
If she still checks out good.... I don't see why not. Im sure I can re-adj the belt down there.
Thanks again Andrew and the MI 928 gang for the support/advice and tool loans!
I'll put some miles on her this weekend up North near the shark tank, before I hit the interstate and drive it the 225mi's down here for the summer.
If she still checks out good.... I don't see why not. Im sure I can re-adj the belt down there.
Thanks again Andrew and the MI 928 gang for the support/advice and tool loans!
#9
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
Roger the intake and cam covers are next year... your right that part does add a lot more time to the job, that's why Kens 32Vr tool was a real time saver!
If I had to pull the cam covers...
Thanks!
If I had to pull the cam covers...
Thanks!
#10
Under the Lift
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The seal on the end of the tensioner is not all that tight. Once you start the motor, the tensioner can vibrate a little and puke oil some out the end. Hopefully it will retain enough. In 1500 miles, when you check the belt tension, hook up your oil can and see if it needs any oil.
#13
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
Thanks Bill I was hoping to here something along that line, I will do just that. Check it each time before I take it out (when cold). If it won’t hold oil… maybe Ken will have his auto-tensioner in full production by then. Cause if I got to go back in, then I’m changing something!
Brad I used CRC Brake Cleaner, WD40, a bunch of those red shop rags and a roll of paper towels, small stiff brushes (you can find the in auto stores).
Also a bench wire wheel came in handy for cleaning up threads on bolts, the best way to strip out threads in aluminum is forcing in a dirty bolt.
A dremel tool with a spongy like mild abrasive wheel (went through a few) for cleaning up gasket contact surfaces and stained metal, good luck!
Brad I used CRC Brake Cleaner, WD40, a bunch of those red shop rags and a roll of paper towels, small stiff brushes (you can find the in auto stores).
Also a bench wire wheel came in handy for cleaning up threads on bolts, the best way to strip out threads in aluminum is forcing in a dirty bolt.
A dremel tool with a spongy like mild abrasive wheel (went through a few) for cleaning up gasket contact surfaces and stained metal, good luck!