Aftermarket alarm... must kill it !
07-10-2002, 06:39 AM
#16
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Robert,
It could always be worse. I came home tonight only to find my garage remote battery had failed with the shark hidden inside and no key to any of the house door locks!!! At least you can see your shark <img src="graemlins/c.gif" border="0" alt="[ouch]" />
It could always be worse. I came home tonight only to find my garage remote battery had failed with the shark hidden inside and no key to any of the house door locks!!! At least you can see your shark <img src="graemlins/c.gif" border="0" alt="[ouch]" />
07-10-2002, 12:38 PM
#17
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Hey guys,
Would I be able to get a copy of a / the manual that goes with the alarm if I contacted DEI or went to an alarm specialist ? Also would they be able to get me a new remote ? I am now thinking that maybe I should just go down to them (an alarm specialist) and have them show me how to work my alarm properly.
One thing though, that disco LED has got to go ! Thanks for everything and again, sorry for acting like such an ***...
<img src="graemlins/oops.gif" border="0" alt="[oops]" />
Oh and "tdelarm", that has happened to me before. Now, in every car I have several extra batteries and I replace them every 6 months, whether they need it or not.
Rob
Would I be able to get a copy of a / the manual that goes with the alarm if I contacted DEI or went to an alarm specialist ? Also would they be able to get me a new remote ? I am now thinking that maybe I should just go down to them (an alarm specialist) and have them show me how to work my alarm properly.
One thing though, that disco LED has got to go ! Thanks for everything and again, sorry for acting like such an ***...
<img src="graemlins/oops.gif" border="0" alt="[oops]" />
Oh and "tdelarm", that has happened to me before. Now, in every car I have several extra batteries and I replace them every 6 months, whether they need it or not.
Rob
07-10-2002, 01:20 PM
#18
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Yes you should be able to download a manual both user and install from the website. Very usefull info in both manuals. A dealer will not wat to get you a install manual.
Thurston. 84 euro AT <img src="graemlins/beerchug.gif" border="0" alt="[cheers]" />
Thurston. 84 euro AT <img src="graemlins/beerchug.gif" border="0" alt="[cheers]" />
07-10-2002, 02:15 PM
#19
Burning Brakes
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Hi Goldknight,
Thanks for jumping in to help Robert out. I know, and have advised that alarm specialists are the people to work on alarms. Thanks again for sharing your expertise.
<img src="graemlins/bigok.gif" border="0" alt="[thumbsup]" />
Thanks for jumping in to help Robert out. I know, and have advised that alarm specialists are the people to work on alarms. Thanks again for sharing your expertise.
<img src="graemlins/bigok.gif" border="0" alt="[thumbsup]" />
07-10-2002, 08:11 PM
#20
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Donald, Thom & Thurston...
It's really amazing how things come together when you think rationally.
The other day, when I was running around like a chicken with it's head cut-off, ranting about this and generally acting stupid... nothing made sense.
Today, I have looked at this with a much more balanced eye and boy have I found some interesting items. The manufacturer is in-fact DEI and apparantly it is either a model 737 or 730 alarm. I downloaded a PDF file of the Owner's Guide and it explains many things. The second button activates the valet mode (I didn't know that) and disables the siren and all alarm functions except for the door locking. The single LED in the console stays lit (that also explains one of my questions) as opposed to blinking. There is even a list of extras you can add to the system... and one of them is the disco LED array that I hate so much. If I can (using the manual) properly learn how to work this thing (and still get rid of the disco LED), I will keep it in.
So, thanks to you guys... this can be put to bed !
<img src="graemlins/jumper.gif" border="0" alt="[jumper]" />
Now, does anyone else have the roasting center console problem when the windows are down ?
<img src="graemlins/roflmao.gif" border="0" alt="[hiha]" />
A humbled, but happy... Rob
It's really amazing how things come together when you think rationally.
The other day, when I was running around like a chicken with it's head cut-off, ranting about this and generally acting stupid... nothing made sense.
Today, I have looked at this with a much more balanced eye and boy have I found some interesting items. The manufacturer is in-fact DEI and apparantly it is either a model 737 or 730 alarm. I downloaded a PDF file of the Owner's Guide and it explains many things. The second button activates the valet mode (I didn't know that) and disables the siren and all alarm functions except for the door locking. The single LED in the console stays lit (that also explains one of my questions) as opposed to blinking. There is even a list of extras you can add to the system... and one of them is the disco LED array that I hate so much. If I can (using the manual) properly learn how to work this thing (and still get rid of the disco LED), I will keep it in.
So, thanks to you guys... this can be put to bed !
<img src="graemlins/jumper.gif" border="0" alt="[jumper]" />
Now, does anyone else have the roasting center console problem when the windows are down ?
<img src="graemlins/roflmao.gif" border="0" alt="[hiha]" />
A humbled, but happy... Rob
07-10-2002, 08:37 PM
#21
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[quote]Originally posted by Robert:
<strong>
Now, does anyone else have the roasting center console problem when the windows are down ?
</strong><hr></blockquote>
Rob, if you search the Archives you should find previous discussions on that problem. The general concensus is that worn motor mounts allow a gap to occur above the 'tunnel' insulation block, resulting in hot engine and exhaust air to be pulled up through the console area when the windows and/or sunroof are open.
<strong>
Now, does anyone else have the roasting center console problem when the windows are down ?
</strong><hr></blockquote>
Rob, if you search the Archives you should find previous discussions on that problem. The general concensus is that worn motor mounts allow a gap to occur above the 'tunnel' insulation block, resulting in hot engine and exhaust air to be pulled up through the console area when the windows and/or sunroof are open.
07-11-2002, 02:21 PM
#22
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I simply upgraded my factory alarm with a shock sensor switch. It works well.
Most people who install alarms or stereos always seem to cut corners. Cheap connectors, electrical tape, not to mention hacking your factory harness to pieces. I've seen "professionally" installed systems that were installed at good stereo shops wired with electrical tape connections.
If you are careful, you can remove the system and determine what wiring is factory and what isn't. More than likely, the wires to the aftermarket alarm are easily distinguished from the higher quality factory harness wires.
I would simply remove the P.O.S. Nobody pays attention to car alarms anyway.
Most people who install alarms or stereos always seem to cut corners. Cheap connectors, electrical tape, not to mention hacking your factory harness to pieces. I've seen "professionally" installed systems that were installed at good stereo shops wired with electrical tape connections.
If you are careful, you can remove the system and determine what wiring is factory and what isn't. More than likely, the wires to the aftermarket alarm are easily distinguished from the higher quality factory harness wires.
I would simply remove the P.O.S. Nobody pays attention to car alarms anyway.
07-11-2002, 05:03 PM
#23
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I agree w/John Kuhn above, I posted on stolen 928 thread that I followed a flatbed with car attached whose alarm was going. I have always wondered whether it was enroute to repair shop or chop shop. The point is, nobody pays attention to them except to be annoyed, even vipers, "Please step away from the car" makes me step UP to the car. Get rid of it and have an ignition cut-off installed. <img src="graemlins/crying.gif" border="0" alt="[crying]" />