Bill Ball

Maybe, but 99% of the time I am not on boost and the engine has no idea an SC is there. This SC is not connected to the oil supply. Effect is negligible.

blown 87

No extra heat?
No extra load?

I am not trying to get into a peeing contest with you Bill, If it works for you, that is great.

Bill Ball

No problem. As far as I can tell the roots blower is not doing anything most of the time. There is a bypass that recirculates output except when you tromp on the pedal. The car runs the same coolant temp as before. The only problem I have had is sustained speeds of over 155-160 (>6000 RPM, WOT), where I do throw some oil out the filler breather. That happened before the SC was installed, although higher speeds and probably higher crankcase pressures have made it worse. That is a nuisance but it gets a fresh quart of oil when this happens in my 2-3 races each summer (hey, a partial oil change). I'm working on a modifcation that I hope will keep the oil from exiting out the filler breather. Other than that, I do not consider the open road racing to be very stressful. I drive the car to work the day before, drive the race (usually 100 miles at high speed), drive to work the next day. More or less driving the car in the manner it was designed to run, just one day is a bit faster. I am concerned about oil quality and treating the car correctly. Changing the oil more often is OK, but I just don't think it accomplishes anything unless the oil is not very stable or you are doing things that create problems, like driving rarely, only taking short trips, parking the car outside in the elements for weeks on end, or beating the living crap out of it at the track. Oh, and I could be completely wrong about all of this, so I have no problem with others who feel they would rather be safe than sorry.

Art_Z

they are the ones replacing the engines under warranty, so I don't really understand why they would deliberatlly put extra long intervals for oil changes, which is arguably probably the smallest maintenance expense, on cars they sell for $50k+, and then have to eat a $10k motor replacement because of it

Bill Ball

Some bimmer engines have been disasters that couldn't be averted with daily oil changes, such as the original 318i.

Mike Murphy

I guess it depends on what you consider "racing." Most people at the track will tell you otherwise. Some hardcore racers change the oil after every track event. Granted, these cars are durable, but since you can go through a set of tires and a set of brake pads in only a few races, it is safe to assume that you're going to be really hard on the oil as well.

fabric

The M engines are fairly notorious for being such disasters, and blown 87 could easily have been referring to, I believe, the last gen M3, which they were putting new engines in all the time. As you said Bill, this wasn't an oil issue.

marton

Hacker posted
928s are to enjoy; not to buy & sell

I have already amortised mine in terms of enjoyment versus purchase price.

Buying a 928 & planning to make a profit or even break even is a recipe for frustration

Buy, drive & enjoy

cheers

marton

blown 87

What we have seen for the most part is that folks think oil is oil.
Going 15,000 miles with dino oils might not be the best thing in the world for these engines, and you know it just says 15,000 so 20 or 22 wont hurt anything.

They have a lot of sludge in the pan and the heads. The ones we have seen have been any where between 80-150,000 mile engines so it is not a warranty thing.

hacker-pschorr

Add to that Volvo's that I've seen. Recently a 740 that went 15,000 miles between oil changes, car has 120ish on the odo. The pan looked like toxic waste, the pick up tube was clogged - engine is toast.

Add to that newer (98ish - on) transmission with no dipstick or fill tube. In the manual it states "lifetime fluid". I guess to Audi, Mercedes, BMW, Volvo....."Lifetime" is about 100,000 miles - or when they are now starting to fail.

the flyin' scotsman

...........or just after the warranty expires.

BTW.............love the last lines of your sig

hacker-pschorr

What - you don't like the New Beetle?

anonymousagain

Does anyone else follow the "how the oil looks on the dipstick" method?

Aside from minimum annual changes as cheap insurance agains condensation etc if not driven much, I've always read the dipstick for color and clarity as an indication of oil health.

SATA was good to 1yr and ~13k miles, The Blue Car still looks clean @ 8mos and ~6k miles...but my little 1.3L kia rocket shows breakdown like clockwork @ ~6500 miles.

Once the oil has lost the resemblance to it's original color, or the clarity is "darkening", or consistency is thinning out it's time to drain and replentish. Goes for any oil in any engine or motor, irrelevant of how many miles or hours since the last change.

Just my .02

Bill Ball

Open road racing as done here in Nevada and a few other places is not like the track or professional road racing circuits. The events I run at 145 average with a top speedlimit of 168 over a 2 lane rural highway are just not very demanding on the car. The main issues are keeping the car on the narrow road, planning for turns and checking your time versus targets as they whip by. Anders, my navigator, once looked over at me while we were cruising a straight stretch at about 160 and said, "This feels slow." In our cars, it is. Now, if I had a lot more HP and was entering the 200+ MPH group, it would be a whole different story.

I already agreed that tracking a car beats the living crap out of it and greatly increases the maintenance requirements, but what I do is just driving fast for a while. Still a whole lot of fun.

blown 87

That is a shame, those B230's and B230ft's are built like a tank.

I know what you are talking about, the flame tube and flame box that goes down into the pan can get solid with gunk if the oil is not changed when it should.

Then it builds up crap in the pan and heads.

Once the flame trap gets pluged it starts downhill fast.

I have seen a bunch of B23's, B230's, etc with over 400,000 and no problems, but they had the oil changed every 3,000 miles.

I had a 2 series with over 600,000 on it and the head had never been off of it.

It was still clean under the valve cover.

For the vast part of its life it had had Castrol 20w50 (dino) and BG MOA every 3,000 miles.

The life time fill on the tranys, they should shoot the guy that thought that up.