My 2003 Chev Duramax diesel states 16k kms oil changes but its a work horse truck not an exotic supercar.

I equate oil/filter changes on my 928 as a required right of ownership; why wait 'till it implodes?

 

Is this an assertion with nothing to back it up, or do you have something more to say on the subject?

 

He should love it then... because if people are so ignorant, they bring it on themselves to pay him for the engine rebuilds...

C'mon, what's easier - checking your oil every 3000 miles, or having it replaced every 3000 miles?

Actually, it's easier on
- your time
- your check book
- the environment

 

Just a little material for thought for those of you who lay your cars up for the winter...

A gasoline engine generates just over one gallon of water for every gallon of fuel burned. Obviously, most of this goes out the exhaust pipe, but some makes it into the crankcase. This water combines with other combustion by-products to make several types of acids.

If you drive the car until the oil gets very warm, the condensate will be mostly driven off. (Back in the day, some folks would tell you that their car never burned oil around town, but used oil on a trip. They were adding water to the oil on the short trips, then cooking it out on the first road trip...)

If you let the car sit for a few months, and don't crank the engine at all, a Fall oil change looks better. If you crank the engine for a few minutes every so often, perhaps a Spring oil change looks better.

As in everything in life, there are trade-offs...

 

Not to be offensive or the like, but your implications with your sentence means that porsche makes a crappy engine vs the duramax. Exotic cars are not built well so baby them.

 

Dinosaur juice deteriorates after a while, regardless of use or disuse. This is for the same reason that gasoline goes bad after just sitting in the tank for a while.

If you run synthetic it won't break down, but may be just very dirty, so I'd recommend changing it before you start driving it again.

 

I've really enjoyed this thread! Lot's of good info here...both sides of the coin kinda stuff. I chuckled out loud at Shark Attacks corvette story! As a scientist, I've made the decision to make baseline measurements and not use oil at all.

 

I myself use Slick 50. Those teflon particles will make sure whatever I do there will be ZERO abrasion damage to the moving parts of the engine.

Anyone remember Slick 50 oil additive.
My knowledgeable friend yelled at me and made me run some engine flush treatment and immediately drain that poisoned oil out.
So how does the teflon particles know which metal bits to stick to?

 

The exact opposite................I drive my exotic supercar hard, very hard. 4 sets of rear tyres in 40k kms for example.

As such I maintain it well recognising its age, performance, the way its driven and also its parked for our severe winter weather.

The Duramax is a good engine but in a very, very different league and comments were in reference to the 'newer vehicles longer oil change interval' topic.

 

All oil should always be changed once per year. It's not BS. Oil picks up moisture and contaminates, and 1 years' worth is plenty. It needs to come out of the engine, and changing it is the only way.

 

I'm pretty sure that it's the same way that a Star Trek phaser knows what to vaporize and a Star Trek transporter knows what to transport.

You just don't understand modern technology, do you?

 

You're not missing anything. It's all a huge conspiracy to drive up oil consumption and thus demand. Therefore, with higher demand, we get higher prices (becasue oil is a scarce resourse). Don't give in to those people. They even have Auto manufacturers setup to write this into the owners manuals - just rip out those pages; they're completely untrue.


Ok all joking aside, there is only one way to know for sure. UOA. Used Oil Analysis I'll be using Blackstone-labs' free test kit. Hope this helps.

http://www.blackstone-labs.com/free_test_kit.html

 

In order to have a fair comparison, I'll volunteer to continue to change my oil at least twice a year and those who believe it is all bunk can go for some sort of record, adding as necessary of course. It occurred to me that with all we spend on these cars, we ought not "cut off our nose to spite our face". But hey----someone out there call the oil companies' bluff. If you're right, all you get is sludge buildup. If you're wrong, you rebuild sooner than necessary. G

 

Interesting. I've always read that turbos really reduce an oil's useful life, and that the newer Saabs (which were all turbo's until the 9-2 and 9-7 came around) had had some issues with the 10K oil change interval.

Along with oil breather issues and sludging problems.

 

If you DO NOT crank the engine during the winter... Most of the bad oil will lie in the oilpan doing no harm to the engine. So... an oil change in the fall wouldnt hurt but wouldnt really do any good either. Besides.. the oil will be bad in the spring anyway. Even if you change the oil.. the engine still has a lot of acidric compounds in it and the oil still will pick up moisture during the winter.

If you DO crank the engine..
You will whip up bad oil to places you dont want it to be.
You would have to drive the car for quite some time to get it hot enough to actually cook moisture etc out of the oil. Its not enough to just run it until its warm and then kill it..

So my conclusion is... If you must crank the engine during winter storage (I cant see any reason to why you would like to do that..) you probably need two oil changes. One in the fall and one in the spring.

If you dont crank it, an oil change in the spring would be enough.