Fix your HVAC system
Thread Starter
Team Owner
Joined: May 2004
Posts: 31,234
Likes: 4,220
From: Philly PA
the reson to go through the headlight is so you dont have to work harder to replace the front block off plate and the cooling duct, headlight removal is easier compared to fender liner removal, also you wont be disturbing the sensor wires
Burning Brakes
Joined: Oct 2006
Posts: 869
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From: Bakersfield, Ca.
Ok, have the car all torn apart (projects 113.75-a67B1 through 117.2R9b). Is this the connector for the external temp sensor?(it's an '83) Ain't nothing else down there it could be.
Also did any one figure out what resistor to put in there? Big news flash, they don't make the replacement anymore.
So i guess I have to hot wire it. I know it isn't preferred to straight jump it with a wire, but here in Bako, outside temperatrue isn't so much an issue (it's always DAMN hot). If I do that will it fry the system?
Also did any one figure out what resistor to put in there? Big news flash, they don't make the replacement anymore.
So i guess I have to hot wire it. I know it isn't preferred to straight jump it with a wire, but here in Bako, outside temperatrue isn't so much an issue (it's always DAMN hot). If I do that will it fry the system?
Rennlist Member
Joined: Dec 2002
Posts: 5,283
Likes: 52
From: Australia
Thats the connector . Is the other end not present in the alternator cooling hose? Locate the diagnosis section in the WSM, or notes elsewhere here, which should tell you the reading range, and you could place a resistor that said it was HOT mostly. In my case it was just a bad connection in that plug - cleaned up with a 1/16" drill or similar size. If you have the sensor, put a meter across it and blow through it, thats enough to change the reading usually - it certainly did with mine, and the interior sensor.
jp 83 Euro S AT 51k
jp 83 Euro S AT 51k
Burning Brakes
Joined: Oct 2006
Posts: 869
Likes: 0
From: Bakersfield, Ca.
thanks for the reply. I figured it was. Thank you for the confirmation. Not only is the sensor not there,nothing is there. No tubing, no clamps, no nothing!!. The picture shows everything. Resistor bridge it is!!
Rennlist Member
Joined: Dec 2002
Posts: 5,283
Likes: 52
From: Australia
Surely somebody can get you a used setup? there is not much to it apart from the sensor, the hose is not that hard to get, and alternator cooling will be a very good thing in a hot climate.
jp
jp
Pro
Joined: May 2008
Posts: 591
Likes: 2
From: Charlotte, NC
. In any case, I gave up and put everything back together to drive the car to work today. I'll give it another go tomorrow.Dan
Burning Brakes
Joined: Oct 2006
Posts: 869
Likes: 0
From: Bakersfield, Ca.
All i really need, IMHO, is the sensor. I could rig it through the break duct or something. Or something
. Never really thought 'bout the alternator cooling. Mine sits real low and gets a lot of air through it. I guess I never realized they get that hot. SOOOOOOO, anyone got one?.........anyone......beuller...beuller?
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Pro
Joined: May 2008
Posts: 591
Likes: 2
From: Charlotte, NC
So, is this the sensor attached to the alternator cooling duct?
you can see in the foreground the crimp clamps that have been used to wire it--don't see the original connector. The harness in my car was just replaced and that's when the AC stopped working correctly (only on when set all the way to 65). So does anyone know where these connect to the harness? I traced the wires back and they seem to go from front to back underneath the drivers side hood and then they enter the firewall at the hinge for the hood if I'm not mistaken. I just figure that since the harness was just replaced the problem is probably there and not with the sensor itself.
Thanks,
Dan
you can see in the foreground the crimp clamps that have been used to wire it--don't see the original connector. The harness in my car was just replaced and that's when the AC stopped working correctly (only on when set all the way to 65). So does anyone know where these connect to the harness? I traced the wires back and they seem to go from front to back underneath the drivers side hood and then they enter the firewall at the hinge for the hood if I'm not mistaken. I just figure that since the harness was just replaced the problem is probably there and not with the sensor itself.
Thanks,
Dan
Rennlist Member
Joined: Dec 2002
Posts: 5,283
Likes: 52
From: Australia
There are diagnostic instructions in the wsm. These require you to locate a plug connector rhs of tunnel cover under the dash, disconnect the pug from its socket, get an ohm-meter across two pins, move temp slide , check that resistance changes. if it doesnt , there is a break in connections to one of the sensors. You can reach the connections to the interior sensor from the lhs of the console, put a meter on them, blow through the inlet to see a change.
I would start with a test at the connectors shown above to verify at the sensor before going inside the car. As with many electrical things with uncertain connections, try to get a cable tracer - one end can put a warble tone (bit like a European ambulance) on a lead, and you follow the lead with an inductive pick up to trace, and inside the car to locate which wire has the signal on it. If you push a pin into one of the crimped connectors above, attach the tone generator to it, you could try to find the other end by ear.
jp 83 Euro S AT 51k
I would start with a test at the connectors shown above to verify at the sensor before going inside the car. As with many electrical things with uncertain connections, try to get a cable tracer - one end can put a warble tone (bit like a European ambulance) on a lead, and you follow the lead with an inductive pick up to trace, and inside the car to locate which wire has the signal on it. If you push a pin into one of the crimped connectors above, attach the tone generator to it, you could try to find the other end by ear.
jp 83 Euro S AT 51k
Rennlist Member
Joined: Jun 2005
Posts: 3,261
Likes: 53
From: Park Ridge, IL (near Chicago)
Ok, have the car all torn apart (projects 113.75-a67B1 through 117.2R9b). Is this the connector for the external temp sensor?(it's an '83) Ain't nothing else down there it could be.
Also did any one figure out what resistor to put in there? Big news flash, they don't make the replacement anymore. So i guess I have to hot wire it. I know it isn't preferred to straight jump it with a wire, but here in Bako, outside temperatrue isn't so much an issue (it's always DAMN hot). If I do that will it fry the system?
Also did any one figure out what resistor to put in there? Big news flash, they don't make the replacement anymore.
So i guess I have to hot wire it. I know it isn't preferred to straight jump it with a wire, but here in Bako, outside temperatrue isn't so much an issue (it's always DAMN hot). If I do that will it fry the system?Good luck,
Pro
Joined: May 2008
Posts: 591
Likes: 2
From: Charlotte, NC
Burning Brakes
Joined: Oct 2006
Posts: 869
Likes: 0
From: Bakersfield, Ca.
OK. Electrical experts, I need your help.
So i'm ready to put the car back together, and I'm still not sure how to address the external temp sensor issue. I cannot find one new or used. My initial plan is to jump it with a resistor and seal it up. Now, being COMPLETELY electronically ignorant, what resistor should I use? Do they come in ohms, watts, kilobytes? Remember, its always hot here (110 yesterday).
So i'm ready to put the car back together, and I'm still not sure how to address the external temp sensor issue. I cannot find one new or used. My initial plan is to jump it with a resistor and seal it up. Now, being COMPLETELY electronically ignorant, what resistor should I use? Do they come in ohms, watts, kilobytes? Remember, its always hot here (110 yesterday).
Instructor
Joined: Nov 2006
Posts: 153
Likes: 1
From: Sydney Australia
Hi, search for "External Temp Sensor or...?"
The last post mentions a resistance value.
My strong recomendation is to try harder to find a new or used one and fit it 928 659 021 01, as it will work better than a fixed value. Just tie it off to the splash shield support. This is the setup in my S4 and it works well, even without air flow plumbing to the alternator.
The last post mentions a resistance value.
My strong recomendation is to try harder to find a new or used one and fit it 928 659 021 01, as it will work better than a fixed value. Just tie it off to the splash shield support. This is the setup in my S4 and it works well, even without air flow plumbing to the alternator.
Rennlist Member
Joined: Jun 2005
Posts: 3,261
Likes: 53
From: Park Ridge, IL (near Chicago)
Hi, search for "External Temp Sensor or...?"
The last post mentions a resistance value.
My strong recomendation is to try harder to find a new or used one and fit it 928 659 021 01, as it will work better than a fixed value. Just tie it off to the splash shield support. This is the setup in my S4 and it works well, even without air flow plumbing to the alternator.
The last post mentions a resistance value.
My strong recomendation is to try harder to find a new or used one and fit it 928 659 021 01, as it will work better than a fixed value. Just tie it off to the splash shield support. This is the setup in my S4 and it works well, even without air flow plumbing to the alternator.