Fabio421

Is it required to press the rear wheel hubs off? If so, can it be done while on the car. I would rather not remove the whole assy if its not necessary.

I am trying to replace my wheel lugs with shorter ones.

Peter F

They are pressed into the wheel bearings and I do not think it can be removed when on the car?
I have only replaced the wheel bearings and that required to remove the complete unit and press the hubs out.
To get them back in is easier, just put them in the freezer and heat the other parts in the owen.

/Peter

Jim bailey - 928 International

Why not just cut off the excess stud ?? far easier . Run on a steel open end lug and cut then smooth the cut unscrew the nut to straighten the threads...

Mrmerlin

He might have studs that are not threaded all the way down, so cutting them off may be the end of the studs , why are they too long? Should you have a spacer on the studs. The rear wheel bearing can be replaced in the car you will need a good torch we use MAP gas to heat the aluminum housing and an air chisle with the appropriate fitting that fits inside the bearing to push the bearing out when the housing is warmed up we also place the new bearings in the freezer for about 2 hours before installing them into the heated up housing heat the housing to about 220 F to 250F. the first part is removing the wheel flange we use a combination of big slide puller to flange and the chisle with the correct fitting piece to push out the flange to inner bearing

Garth S

Not knowing the whole story ... if these are 72mm studs from which the 21mm spacer has been removed to allow, say, a 10x18" wheel to fit ... and the studs are threaded all the way ...
Spin the wheel down with open end nuts, and top off with the regular black nuts.
Generally, this works well .... but only guessing as to the reason for wanting to shorten the studs.

ceedee

geee i can't believe i gave you wrong advise...
for some reason i thought you talked about the front...duuuuuuuuh.

Fabio421

Heres the whole truth and nothing but the truth so help me god.


I am swapping out my current 50mm spacers with some new 75mm spacers. The 50mm's fits up by using extra long studs that go through the spacer and then through the wheel. The 75mm spacers have studs for the wheel built into them.. These fit up by bolting the spacer on using the original studs and some open ended steel lug nuts. The lug nuts and studs are supposed to be recessed into the face of the spacer so the wheel can bolt up flush. Then you bolt the whell on using the studs that are built into the spacer. My studs, which were so long so they would fit through the 50mm spacers, are so long that they stick out further than the end of the 75mm spacer. This means that the wheel will not bolt up flush.

I hope this was a thorough enough explanation. Now your probably wondering why I need 75mm spacers. Click on the widebody text in my sig and you will see.

So if I pull the entire hub assy. so I can press it out, what else should I look at while I'm there? I'm sure bearings need to be looked at and re-packed at minimum. Which bushings are in that vicinity? Anything else?

Mrmerlin

sorry but once you remove the inner race IE the part that will come out with the wheel flange you will need to replace the wheel bearing, there is no repacking or rebuilding these units they are greased and sealed at the factory the only time they come apart is when you remove the wheel flange and once you do this the bearing is now a scrap item

Garth S

OK! So, unless you wish to buy a new set of bearings and have all the fun of pressing them out, Jim B has the better idea: spin on some nuts, don the face shield and slice away with a zip wheel to whatever length works.

Mrmerlin

cutting the studs may work unless they are not fully threaded I have seen longer studs that have only partial threading so cutting off the ends may not be the best solution , first get a open ended nut then thread it on to whatever you are attaching then see if you can make it tight, if so then you cut what you dont need off

Fabio421

I believe they are not threaded all the way. The first 3/4" is smooth from what I can remember. If the whole thing needs to come off I guess thats what I'll do. It will give me an excuse to do all the other PM in the area at the same time.

Mike Frye

Thank you.
This is the most concise thread about rear wheel spacers, studs and bearings I've ever seen. There were no extraneous posts at all, until mine .