High end amplifier question
My question is: Does it make any sense to spend ridiculous money on an amp when my listening room (e.g., the car) is noisy? Would I be able to pick out the increased detail?
Anyone else using higher end gear? My car is progressively getting nicer, and since my current (sony) 5-channel amp seems to have given up the ghost, I'm looking at moving up a couple notches. I also run an Inifinity 10" sub in a box and Boston Acoustics separates, which I like well enough, although one upgrade tends to lead to another. . .
Last edited by bd0nalds0n; May 1, 2007 at 11:05 PM.

IMO save your money. I love McIntosh equipment so it's not like I'm against buying expensive audio gear.
If you are not going to turn your car into a traveling studio, I don't see the point. Even the MB Quart might be overkill. Check out a few Alpine units or even check ebay for the Infinity Digital line. It's not going to take much to produce an excellent sound in a 928.
Now, when it comes time to finish the interior of my 81 I do plan on adding a ton of sound deadening to quiet the interior. I still wouldn't spend the cash on McIntosh amps for the car.
I might buy a McIntosh head unit just because they look so damn cool.
I know there are at least two 928's on the boards with McIntosh equipment so I'm sure someone will be pointing out how wrong I am very shortly.
Personally played with many high and low power solutions, and while the high power "usually" sounded slightly better, the reason is "typically" due to quality of components AND listening environment. Some seriously killer systems on a decent (not high end) 40w/4ch, with 100w bridged sub...impressive, but speaker matching and vehicle environment were <obviously> critical as well.
While I've stuck with the stock speakers in SATA (still function properly), adopting only a solid 55w/4ch with bridged 5th ch for 10" sub, it is very clean and very loud. Granted, I'm not competing and the kid with the 3 12's and 2000w neon is still louder, but it sounds very good even at speed with sunroof/windows open and cost what it should for such good clarity.
Be cost sensitive for proven brands and shy away from the marketing hype of high power and you'll be quite satisfied. Make sure to match component sensitivity as well
fwiw, cost:
Head Unit - $99 on sale
Amp - $79 on sale
Wires etc. - $40
Sub - $70 aprox w/materials
when new speakers: $50 Front; $50 Rear
$280 + my time
My question is: Does it make any sense to spend ridiculous money on an amp when my listening room (e.g., the car) is noisy? Would I be able to pick out the increased detail?
Anyone else using higher end gear? My car is progressively getting nicer, and since my current (sony) 5-channel amp seems to have given up the ghost, I'm looking at moving up a couple notches. I also run an Inifinity 10" sub in a box and Boston Acoustics separates, which I like well enough, although one upgrade tends to lead to another. . .
That said, I'm looking at an Infinity 6 channel amp right now to install in my 88 S4. I have a separate 4 channel and 2 channel of the same model line in my 95 Saab 9000 Aero and they are fantastic (4 channels push Harman Kardon separates and 2 channel is bridged to 1, pushing a JL WO series 12" sub in a custom box). The 6 channel can be had right now for under $250 (I believe it is model 5761a; check it out on eBay). While not super high end, it's pretty damn close, and the performance is outstanding.
Otherwise, check out Phoenix Gold, PPI, and the high end (dealer only, not the best buy junk) Alpine amps for dropping high dollars on an amp. I've never been impressed with MB Quarts. I feel like their quality has declined in the last 5 years.
Hans
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I like it but readily admit I'm not an audiophile and don't know the good from the bad from the ugly.
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To spend that much on an amp you'd have to match it with the best quality head unit, wiring, speakers & power source (upgrades) to get the full value out of it... Given that no car - (but especially a 928) is a noise free environment when moving - nor do any have ideal acoustics... its hard to consider and rate it the same way you would an in-home audio system.
Only you can decide what you want and value - but for most it would be overkill... Here you can probably get 99% of the quality for ~60% of the price - so it makes a big difference. Plus many of the super premium units are so big as to be almost impossible to hide and are a bit of a theft magnet too....
Alan
The MBQ seemed like a reasonable compromise (twice as much as many, but 1/3 the cost of a really high end amp), although there was an Eclipse amp that might also do the trick for around $350.
I do have an older Denon 6-channel amp in my truck that would probably be a good candidate, although the dimensions aren't as close (squarer, less rectangular) than what my current configuration will accommodate. I think most Denon car audio was actually Sony in a different box, but I am partial to Denon home audio.
The JL slash 5 channel amp seemed interesting, but it's ~100 watts x2 to the front, but only ~25x2 to the rear, and a single channel of 100 or 200 watts. The difference between f/r doesn't make any sense to me.
The repair center hasn't gotten back to me yet (the amp will periodically go into "overload protect" over bumps)--if I can get it fixed for $100 - $150, I'll probably just do that, simply because it fits in a custom cutout and is a known quantity.
However, it's always fun to upgrade. Thanks again to those who have expressed an opinion and feel free to keep chiming in.
Start by tearing the interior out and installing sound deadening material of your choice. You don't have to spend a ton on mobile audio...go with equipment that fits your listening taste and budget. Want pics?
http://groups.msn.com/socal928/doorbarrier.msnw?Page=1
I did get a head unit with USB, so I've got a few micro drives that I can switch out. Much superior to an iPod hookup, IMO.
Oscar, I can totally appreciate what you've done; what I'm looking for is a compromise between good, clean, accurate sound while maintaining as much of the stock (or hidden) look and sacrificing as little trunk/hatch space as possible.
For the time being, I think a slightly more powerful and capable amp will do. If there's another upgrade, it will be a bigger subwoofer box and a tighter driver--no matter how small the box the woofer is designed to work in, they all seem to do better with more volume (within reason). Then would come the upgraded separates.
It's not unlike the racing flowchart Jim posted the other day...lighter, bigger brakes, bigger footprint, more power....lighter. . .
That infinity amp is looking appealing, if the sub level accepts a phone jack connector.



