Green Wire?
04-01-2007, 04:56 PM
#16
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The green wire only goes from the distributor to the spark box, not inside the car. There is similar green wire by the fuse panel, but that's for the oxygen sensor. If the green wire is no longer green, it probably needs replacing.
The octane loop on EZ-F equipped (ROW 84-86, US 85-86) cars forces a 3° retard, and only at full throttle. It doesn't effect the idle.
The octane loop grounds the input from air temp (Temp I) sensor in the air filter box, which is a fault. Shorting the Temp I wires together does the same thing. The normal operation is to retard the timing if the intake air is over 125°F.
Originally Posted by BRETT AINLEY
...is this the same green wire that you CAN connect down by the fuse board to give 6 degrees of retard for bad fuel etc ???
As I was going to connect my race controller to it to use the retard at high revs and lots of Nitrous....are you saying that if its altered in any way it will make idle etc strange ???
As I was going to connect my race controller to it to use the retard at high revs and lots of Nitrous....are you saying that if its altered in any way it will make idle etc strange ???
The octane loop grounds the input from air temp (Temp I) sensor in the air filter box, which is a fault. Shorting the Temp I wires together does the same thing. The normal operation is to retard the timing if the intake air is over 125°F.
04-01-2007, 05:08 PM
#17
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Originally Posted by SharkSkin
My understanding is that that green wire has to have a specific impedance -- so there's more to it than just "shielded wire". Since impedance is not something you can measure with a DMM, this may not be a good DIY candidate. Since we don't know the dielectric constant of the insulator between the inner and outer conductors(well, maybe someone does), you would need a function generator and scope plus a good understanding of analog theory to characterize the existing wire and then characterize any candidate for replacement.
It would be fairly easy to measure its capacitance per foot. As there aren't high frequencies involved then as long as cap/ft was similar I don't think there would be a problem.
I was thinking of using RF Coax which is 30pf/ft, with ptfe insulation, inner and outer.
04-01-2007, 07:11 PM
#18
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Originally Posted by PorKen
The green wire only goes from the distributor to the spark box, not inside the car. There is similar green wire by the fuse panel, but that's for the oxygen sensor. If the green wire is no longer green, it probably needs replacing.
The octane loop on EZ-F equipped (ROW 84-86, US 85-86) cars forces a 3° retard, and only at full throttle. It doesn't effect the idle.
The octane loop grounds the input from air temp (Temp I) sensor in the air filter box, which is a fault. Shorting the Temp I wires together does the same thing. The normal operation is to retard the timing if the intake air is over 125°F.
The octane loop on EZ-F equipped (ROW 84-86, US 85-86) cars forces a 3° retard, and only at full throttle. It doesn't effect the idle.
The octane loop grounds the input from air temp (Temp I) sensor in the air filter box, which is a fault. Shorting the Temp I wires together does the same thing. The normal operation is to retard the timing if the intake air is over 125°F.
Where did you get the 3 degree figure...I was told if you connect the low octane loop it will give a 6 degree retard ????
All the best Brett
04-01-2007, 07:22 PM
#19
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Hi
Oops just found it in the PDFS...
Quote...
With this plug connected the ignition timing
will be retarded approx. 3” at full load and
high partial load.
(Provision for adaptation to poor grade
gasoline.)
All the best Brett
Oops just found it in the PDFS...
Quote...
With this plug connected the ignition timing
will be retarded approx. 3” at full load and
high partial load.
(Provision for adaptation to poor grade
gasoline.)
All the best Brett
04-01-2007, 07:28 PM
#20
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From the EZ-F service bulletin.
The warm engine retard is also 3° (in other words, there's a 3° advance at idle and cruise when the engine is cold/cool). The full load switch is 20° retard, as is no vacuum at the EZ-F vacuum port.
The warm engine retard is also 3° (in other words, there's a 3° advance at idle and cruise when the engine is cold/cool). The full load switch is 20° retard, as is no vacuum at the EZ-F vacuum port.
04-01-2007, 07:55 PM
#21
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John Speake wrote: "I have considered offering replacement green wires, but made using shielded PTFE wire. Anyone interested? Price? Sensible answers please! :-)"
I'm interested. I suppose "sensible" means that you won't do it for $2.67, including shipping. ;-) ;-)
OTOH, <$100 leaves a lot of room for common sense in charging for your time, expertise and materials.
I'm interested. I suppose "sensible" means that you won't do it for $2.67, including shipping. ;-) ;-)
OTOH, <$100 leaves a lot of room for common sense in charging for your time, expertise and materials.
04-01-2007, 08:08 PM
#22
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I have a green wire that has only 1 hour of use on it, essentially new. I would sell for 2/3 of the new price. I also have a distributor cap, rotor and set of red Magnecor wires with the same usage. All were used on Euro S 5L hyrbid motor.
04-01-2007, 08:13 PM
#23
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Originally Posted by PorKen
From the EZ-F service bulletin.
The full load switch is 20° retard, as is no vacuum at the EZ-F vacuum port.
The full load switch is 20° retard, as is no vacuum at the EZ-F vacuum port.
Does the above apply to my 1986 S2 (16 VALVE) ??? ROW...
All the best Brett
04-02-2007, 06:39 AM
#25
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Originally Posted by Fogey1
John Speake wrote: "I have considered offering replacement green wires, but made using shielded PTFE wire. Anyone interested? Price? Sensible answers please! :-)"
I'm interested. I suppose "sensible" means that you won't do it for $2.67, including shipping. ;-) ;-)
OTOH, <$100 leaves a lot of room for common sense in charging for your time, expertise and materials.
I'm interested. I suppose "sensible" means that you won't do it for $2.67, including shipping. ;-) ;-)
OTOH, <$100 leaves a lot of room for common sense in charging for your time, expertise and materials.
If anyone has old green wires they are willing to contribute to the cause, please email from my website link.
04-02-2007, 09:04 AM
#26
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Originally Posted by John Speake
Yes ....
Is there any way I could activate the 20 degree retard electrically (relay etc ) ??
My new Maxx Race controller has a retard OUT wire that sends a signal at certain revs etc (that I can set)...if its possible ....where would I send it ???
All the best Brett
04-02-2007, 09:19 AM
#27
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Originally Posted by BRETT AINLEY
Hi John
Is there any way I could activate the 20 degree retard electrically (relay etc ) ??
My new Maxx Race controller has a retard OUT wire that sends a signal at certain revs etc (that I can set)...if its possible ....where would I send it ???
All the best Brett
Is there any way I could activate the 20 degree retard electrically (relay etc ) ??
My new Maxx Race controller has a retard OUT wire that sends a signal at certain revs etc (that I can set)...if its possible ....where would I send it ???
All the best Brett
Last edited by John Speake; 04-02-2007 at 10:27 AM.
04-02-2007, 02:08 PM
#28
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Originally Posted by John Speake
Hi
It would be fairly easy to measure its capacitance per foot. As there aren't high frequencies involved then as long as cap/ft was similar I don't think there would be a problem.
I was thinking of using RF Coax which is 30pf/ft, with ptfe insulation, inner and outer.
It would be fairly easy to measure its capacitance per foot. As there aren't high frequencies involved then as long as cap/ft was similar I don't think there would be a problem.
I was thinking of using RF Coax which is 30pf/ft, with ptfe insulation, inner and outer.
04-02-2007, 02:41 PM
#29
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Hello Dave,
I wasn't trying to diminish your remarks, and your words of caution have been noted.....thanks for your input.
I wonder if the past problem was the one that J P Rodkey mentions.
AFAIK the distributor has a magnetic sensor in it. The signal level it picks up is low, hence the need for the screened wire, because of the high level HT volts nearby.
I can make up a protype for someone to test.....
I wasn't trying to diminish your remarks, and your words of caution have been noted.....thanks for your input.
I wonder if the past problem was the one that J P Rodkey mentions.
AFAIK the distributor has a magnetic sensor in it. The signal level it picks up is low, hence the need for the screened wire, because of the high level HT volts nearby.
I can make up a protype for someone to test.....
