Imo000

The math checks out!

dr bob

There are plenty of ways to get the right torque setting, all the way to making an adapter that lets you put your 1/2"-drive 250# wrench out on an arm. There are torque multipliers too, that actually help with the nut removal process a lot.

I'm with Dave A on the conversion number. 460Nm = 339.2785887 lbs/ft. There's a mark on my wrench handle at 340, close enough!

Jim bailey - 928 International

Yes .7376 is the correct factor but .75 is easier to remember or use 1.356 going the other way

Shark Attack

harbor freight.. I picked up a monster torque wrench good to 450 ft lb. I think it was $40

dr bob

Say 5% max midscale error, plus or minus the width of the marks on the handle, and suddenly there isn't any difference between 322 and 339. For grins, pull til it clicks at 322, then see if it moves at all when you up the setting to 339. I doubt you'd notice much movement if you notice any at all.

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Folks in the L.A. area are welcome to come by and have your axle nut torque checked with my click-wrench if you are concerned about the accuracy of your bathroom scales or your ability to hold the handle at exactly 12 inches from the center of the socket. Sounds like a great theme for a gathering here-- Wheel lug nut torque checks, axle nuts, front wheel bearing play, tire pressure check clinic. The other tough one to verify is the allen bolts that hold the inner CV to the drive flange-- 60 lbs/ft!. I think I have a wrench for that too.

ZEUS+

Somebody will always find a way without the proper tool.
http://www.type2.com/bartnik/torque.htm

SharkSkin

Bob, good point about the inherent error in the wrench itself. I still think it's good to know what the intended torque should be. First, I believe that most of the torque specs were calculated in metric units -- so I always start there. Second, I disagree with Imo -- there may be a BIG difference between 330 & 350, especially when you consider the accuracy of the torque wrench.

Suppose you decide to torque to 330, but your torque wrench reads 5% high. Your 330 is now 313. Or, suppose you set it to 350, and your wrench reads 5% low. Your 350 is now 367. If your torque wrench is off 10% the low/high numbers are 297/385.

Better to try to torque to the exact spec and let the error fall where it may, IMHO -- the engineers generally take into account that you are unlikely to get much closer than 5%.

IcemanG17

when Brian at Devek fixed my leaky CV boots....he broke out this monster torque wrench that was about 3 feet long.......at torqued it to 322ftlbs

SharkSkin

Brian, he probably just read it off the WSM page. I initially had my wires crossed -- I was pretty sure there was a "3" and a "2" in there -- it seems I was trying to remember the number in the WSM. The different numbers that were tossed into this thread plus a vague recollection that some of the conversions were inaccurate prompted me to check it. I tend to double-check any of the specs I come across in the course of a project now, but I just haven't made my way around to taking this part of the car apart -- yet.

Your hub isn't going to fall off, I'm sure it's fine at 322.

Evil Patrick

That's similar to what I did, but since I didn't trust the scale, I lifted myself onto the
bar at the proper distance (which was about 2 foot).

I had to buy a 3/4 inch breaker-bar and mongo socket.

Funny thing is, that socket also fits my Fox 36 fork caps (Does anyone hear
knows the reason this is good?)