EC928NC

I just got a quote of $2700 from a Raleigh/Cary area dealer for a TB change!

I read through several instances Nochols maintenance tips that folks were having this done for a little over a grand? What gives...

Can anyone point me toward a reputable mechanic in Eastern NC that won't burn my short pants off??

I am unable to uncover any history on the car and don't know when/if the TB service has ever been done. I don't really have anywhere to do the TB myself right now.

In the mean time, if I understand what I've read, I can pull the Rt side cover and check the belt condition and tension (given the proper tool) when I service the tensioner. True? Procedure.... I know..I was outbid on the last maunal set I tried to buy. I'm trying.

hacker-pschorr

Found your problem.

H2

If you replace all the replaceable stuff in there, as well as bring everything else up to snuff while you have the engine front off.. Porsche brand parts alone can be close to $1,000 (all new rollers, WP, hoses, belts, new main bearing seal, cam seals, new hoses to assure good vacuum, and so on)...$2,700 is possible. Or you could be paying that amount for the minimum work.

The work is not terribly difficult but very time consuming. At $90 or so an hour, it doesn't take long for the cost to go up. A very good and fast mechanic who bills by the job, and may use cheaper parts, can do this job cheaper. However, if they work fast, or juggle several jobs at once, there is also the chance that some of the work may not be the best. You're wise to check with 928ers in your area to see who they've had good experience with. Never take the shop's word for how good their work is. "928s? Is that the one with the front engine? Heck yes, we do them all the time. I just need to borrow a manual from someone."

H2

EC928NC

I know... Hense the quote. I've never been one to take my car to the Stealership. Unfortunately, my trusted mechanics aren't overly comfortable at tackeling this one.

EC928NC

I'm pretty sure I could do it myself, but I don't have a garage right now... I suppose there's always renting a storage unit for a month or two... if the boss'll let me out of honey-do's for a while. lol

Marine Blue

Not familiar with your particular location in NC but can you possibly drive it to 928 Specialist?

If you're concerned about driving the car maybe someone locally can take a quick peek at the belt to insure it's driveable?

Good luck either way.

EC928NC

Spruce Pine is a little over 5 hrs away. I am going to check the belt myself when I can get it out to the Air Force Base and get it on a lift. I'm not afraid to drive it really.. I kind of feel if it's going to go, it'll go. I have no indication it will do so, (no belt tension light)... I really want to just do this before I regret NOT doing it...

bd0nalds0n

At 15k miles per year, a timing belt should last a minimum of 3 years if I understand the service life correctly. $2,700 / 36 = $75/month. Big upfront investment, but it lasts a long time. It's the cheapest lease payment you'll ever have.

blown 87

We did one about 2 weeks ago, he got new cam gears, idlers, rebuilt the tensioner (it was dry and the boot was gone) , set the cams up with a dial indicator, oil change with synthetic, relived the tension on the crank and measured thrust play and a general check out for right at $2400, this was less than 2000 miles after the dealer had done a timing belt on the car.

sharkmeister85

You don't need a lift to check the belt. This could be done in a driveway if you have the tools and a couple of hours. A simple ramp to get 6-12 inches of extra clearance under the front end can help.
Glenn

blown 87

I just looked at the work order for the 89 we did, he also got charged for a couple of other things, 2.5 hours for doing the 1500 mile retension and trying to get the tensioner filled.
2 hours for setting the cams up, 1.5 hours for the flexplate, .4 for the rebuilding of the tensioner, the rest of it was mostly all flate rate.

This is the kind of car you are better doing this on your own.

bd0nalds0n

Only if you have the time (and lots of it, the first time you do anything) and are fairly certain you're not going to foul things up in the process.

There was another post recently where the guy pulled his dash to replace the heater core (which should be fairly straightforward) and fried a bunch of ground wires upon reinstall of the dash and pod. How much time and money do you think it'll cost to chase THAT down?

Paying a reputable mechanic to do the work is cheap insurance against potentially major self-induced screwup that ends up costing orders of magnitude over what the original fix would've cost.

SharkSkin

This is an afternoon job... If you can get an experienced local to help you should be fine. If you're doing it in your driveway, the most important thing is to get a wide transmission drain pan -- something like this -- so you can catch all of the coolant. Pull the drain plugs from the block so that when you pull the WP you won't get a big splash of coolant everywhere.

EC928NC

Thanks all for your input. If this is the going rate now... I'll get the parts I need and go to it. I had/have planned to do this myself... my only real concern was that I'd be doing it in the driveway with no place to put "stuff" as I was doing the job. I'm the type that will clean (and paint if necessary) everything while it's apart.

Yup, but with my old war wounded knees (and lazyness) I can pay a couple bucks and stay off my knees and back. Now for the entire TB R&R, I'll try and block it up in a 4-point so I can roll a creeper under when I need to.

Mike Frye

Get Pirtle's write-up, it's better than the manual and FREE for download. Do some searches, many have their own take on it. JKelly has one for our year car that I hear is pretty good, but he sells it as a hard copy.
Also, Jim Morehouse has CDs for sale, get a set, you won't regret it and it's MUCH cheaper than the manuals and easier to use.

WARNING: Advice coming from a guy with exactly ONE tb/wp under his belt. (which I screwed up slightly and had to do over )

I figured out the quick and easy way to check the tension without having the car off the ground and in about an hour start to finish. This will require a 1/2 inch drive socket, as well as a 27mm (I think) deep well socket for the crank bolt.

1: Get a Kempf tool
2: disco battery
3: take out bolt holding the passenger ignition coil in place and slide it forward to clear passenger TB cover
4: put car in neutral
5: Using socket wrench- pull engine around until it's at TDC clockwise facing engine (pulling from passenger to DS)
6: remove passenger TB cover (verify location of timing marks on passenger cam gear)
7: Follow instructions for checking/setting tension
8: pull it through at least twice
9: check/adjust again
10: check oil in tensioner, fill as needed
reassembly is: as they say, the reverse of disassembly.

END of WARNING

My .02: check the tension as soon as possible and the next time it's nice weather, do the tb/wp in your driveway.