chewy8000

I know it's been awhile since I spoke with some of you at the Dulles VA meet. I think I pin pointed my coolant leak finally. My 81' US 16V has been pooling coolant on top of the motor under the intake and I couldn't figure out where it was coming from. I started her up yesterday and really climbed in there to look and saw that the head was leaking coolant. I'm not to mechanical but I image that the head is what the plugs are screwed into right? All along the inside edge there were little bubbles and coolant slowly streaming down the block. I am imagine this is a bad scenario but she only has 70,000 miles and selling it is not an option! I don't have the money to make this repair and I'm sure it will cost more than the car is worth. Can anyone give me options on what to do and if my problem really is a blown head gasket?

Thanks
Tristan

mark kibort

I had the same issue on my 84 US racer, before i really got into pumping up the performance. Barr's stop leak is awesome for these types of outward leaks. i had no real issues around town, but at the track, i would fill the entire valley under the intake!! with barr's, it was stopped almost completely.

one thing i never tried, is you could see if you can put a 19mm on the head bolts and crank them down to 65ft-lbs. they may be frozen and not move, but it could be worth a try.

Mk

marton

Check the oil for water contamination, creamy streaks in the oil
take off the oil filler and check the inside for signs of water; looks like cream.
If none then you can try leak stopper; it works for some.
But first drain the coolant and put in fresh distilled water and antifreeze for aluminium motors.

If you do have water in the oil then you can try leak stopper but after putting in the leak stopper; drain the oil fill the oil again and keep checking for water

Marton

chewy8000

Well I spoke to Tom Stuart at redline motor in Purcelville VA today. He said the labor alone for the headgaskets would be $3000! I guess I really don't have a choice now. I can't afford that. I'll try the barr's stop leak, but in reality thats probably not going to solve the problem after time. I really don't want to mess up my car it's only got 77k miles. The cam seal job I started had to be finished by redline last time because I couldn't figure it out how to get it back together after the seals were pressed in. My dad gave me this car as a wedding present a year before he died of cancer so selling it is not an option. If I buy a manual, tools, and parts is it feasable I can do this. Remember I couldn't figure out the cam seals. From what I hear on the forum if anything moves when taking it apart you can do serious damage. Is that correct?

Mongo

The 16-valve heads are less complex than the 32 valves, very similar to the 944. Pulling the heads however can be a tight fit since you have studs on the block (32-valve cars don't have studs protruding, you bolt the head onto the block.) Buying a manual will not make it hard to do.

Be sure you set the engine on TDC. I recommend a flywheel lock to make sure nothing moves in the bottom end of that motor.

On a side note, you don't have a cracked cylinder head do you??? Ever overheated the car?

checkmate1996

I've learned a ton over the past three years on rennlist. I didn't know what end of the hammer was up! Now, I've tackled removing and replacing an engine, two clutches and two tb/wp's. It can be done, it just takes time, patience, $$$ and more patience. Buy some general automotive books too. I found that very helpful just understanding car fundamentals. Buy the right tools to do the job. It WILL save you in the end. Good luck!

chewy8000

Thats what is weird. The car isn't over heating but the valley under the MAF is filling up with coolant every couple weeks. I imediately stopped driving it when I first noticed the coolant burning on the motor. I just found the leak and bubbles on the head last week.

checkmate1996

That's how they start...slow...then goto fast...it WILL overheat...it's just a matter of time...

chewy8000

So what other tools will I need besides a kempf timing tension tool and a fkywheel lock?

Mongo

Your brain. It has patience

You can do it.

mark kibort

the barrs stop leak is very very good. it should fix it, if it is slight. its almost perminant. if you are not racing the car , it could last a very long time, with no ill effects.

as far as overheating, that doesnt happen unless an entirely different part of the head gasket is damaged. (the ring around the cylinders) usually the only overheating you will experience is from the lack of water, if it gets that far befoe you notice.


mk

chewy8000

Well I'll try the barrs stop leak and see what happens. What works better, the tablets or the liquid? They actually make a few products. Do I want the Block sealant or the coolant sealant?

http://www.theconsumerlink.com/BarsProducts

chewy8000

Nevermind. I guess the bar's "head gasket repair" they just came out with on their site is pretty self explanitory. Thanks for all the help! I'll let ya know how it goes.

JHowell37

Try to pinpoint exactly where the leak is before you do anything else. Use a coolant pressure tester. Don't waste your money on the printed shop manuals, they're useless. All of the good information is in the supplements Porsche produced that weren't part of the shop manuals. Jim Moorehouse has the good info on CD that he will sell you.

I understand the car has a lot of sentimental value to you. If for some reason, it is a leaking head gasket and the stop leak doesn't fix it, consider replacing the engine with one from one of the vendors or one from a vendor on e-bay that will guarantee it. Removing and installing an engine is hard enough for someone who can't manage cam seals. I don't think you'd be able to disassemble and reassemble one as well.

Pfunde

That's what I did , when I had a gasket leak. Engine swap was cheapper and a better solution, and included a warranty..........

good luck