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Clutch Removal Question (Update!)

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Old 03-10-2007, 05:19 AM
  #31  
928BC
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Yes you can put them in after Glenn. just get a long punch and bang them out, I think I have even punched them out the opposite way then the manual stated and had no problems.
Old 03-10-2007, 03:37 PM
  #32  
sharkmeister85
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Okay, the deed is done, the clutch is out! I managed to turn it into a 3 hour battle of wills, but in the end I claim victory and knowledge. Admittedly, the length of this struggle was protracted due to my own stubbornness, but since I sustained no wounds due to "falling clutches", I'm satisfied. So what did I learn?
1-A long drift would not work because it would not have hit the pin squarely enough (off on too much of an angle)
2- I tried a shorter drift. Gave me more range of movement to swing the hammer, but I was still too close to the oil pan to hit it effectively.
3- So instead, I hit the pins out in the direction of the flywheel instead, no problem. The pins must come out! With the driveshaft connecting collar fully back, the amount of space between the short shaft and the driveshaft is deceptively large. I thought I could use that space to easily clear the pins. The limiting factor was the release arm, which stopped me from pulling the whole assembly back enough to clear the pins.
4- The stubbornness part. In the same vein as 3, I thought I could clear the little gear on the starter motor as well, without removing the starter. I really didn't want to play with the starter. I have a Devek sway bar that has almost zero clearance from the starter, so taking it off entirely would have meant unfastening the sway bar. Jeez! Does it never end? After a long struggle here I had to admit the clutch was not coming out with the starter as it was. I almost packed it in at this point. However, I decided to press on, removing the starter bolts first, just to see if by chance I could budge it enough without undoing the swaybar.
Eureka! I could pry and twist the starter back a little anyhow, despite its very tight proximity to the swaybar. The clutch pack dropped neatly onto my perfectly placed jack! (No injuries sustained)
4- I dread trying to put all this back together.
Glenn
Old 03-10-2007, 08:30 PM
  #33  
heinrich
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yay!!!!
Old 03-10-2007, 09:14 PM
  #34  
AO
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Good job Glenn. I could have told you that the starter needs to be pulled. Going in is a lot easier in my opionion. You'll also find that the second and third times go a lot faster too.

One last bit of advice... those two little bolts on the guide tube, make sure you put a little locktite on them. That one got me the frst time.
Old 03-10-2007, 10:06 PM
  #35  
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Thanks, guys!
Good point on the Loctite, Andrew. Sometimes a little "hand holding" and a few tips here on the 'list is all that's needed to get past some of the "sticking points" encountered. Now to update my thread on the "busted" reference sensor.
Glenn
Old 03-31-2007, 12:50 PM
  #36  
Mike Frye
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Glenn,

I chimed in on this thread once saying I was following it for my near future.

Well, I was right. I was on vacation this week with nothing to do but work on my car (!). I rebuilt the steering rack and pump, replaced my tie rods and sway bar bushings. Also fixed the leak at the exhaust clamp that's been there since I put in the crossovers last month.

Everything was silky smooth and ran like a race car for two days.

Then of course, since I was driving it like a race car, I managed to burn up the pilot bearing in my clutch.

symptoms: chirping or squealing noise when clutch pedal is all the way up, in or out of gear, rough vibration/judder/shuddering in 1st when clutch is let out.

Thanks for the detailed post, did you have any surprised putting the clutch back in?

Anyway, looks like my car is sidelined until I can get the parts I need. I found the following list posted by Jim Bailey on another thread. Does anyone have anything to add?

Originally Posted by Jim Bailey (from another thread)
The minimum clutch service should probably be ...release bearing , pilot bearing , ball socket for arm , friction disc and as was mentioned the updated clutch release arm and new guide tube. If the pressure plate fingers are worn from a failing release bearing spinning the race then it needs the plate. The short clutch drive shaft if the splines which engage the discs are worn , replace. If the fly wheel is blued/ grooved , resurface.



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