REAR AXIAL BOOT REPLACEMENT
#1
Race Car
Thread Starter
REAR AXIAL BOOT REPLACEMENT
OFF THE CAR AND THE ONE WITH THE TORN BOOT IS VERY LOOSE:
I have the replacment boots but am unsure what to remove to replace these. the end section is very loose any one done this before and what parts need to be replaced.
I have the replacment boots but am unsure what to remove to replace these. the end section is very loose any one done this before and what parts need to be replaced.
#3
Originally Posted by Tampa 928s
OFF THE CAR AND THE ONE WITH THE TORN BOOT IS VERY LOOSE:
I have the replacment boots but am unsure what to remove to replace these. the end section is very loose any one done this before and what parts need to be replaced.
I have the replacment boots but am unsure what to remove to replace these. the end section is very loose any one done this before and what parts need to be replaced.
SharkSkin's 928 Pages
Excellent write up.
#4
Rennlist Member
Yep, you can follow my write-up -- one thing to add: Make sure you put the CV joint back on the shaft in the same orientation that it came off. This is not so crucial in this case that you're going to break something if you don't do it, but it's just good mechanical practice, like marking wheels so they go back on the same way. Usually parts like this come from the factory with a mark indicating the "heavy" side, and if you don't put it back together the same way it came off you could introduce a new vibration.
#5
Drifting
Many thanks to Dave for his write up which was invaluable. One thing I found though was that the boot clamp would always manage to get in the way of one of the bolts.
Also, if you take off both axles at the same time you can swap them from left to right, this will get more life out of the worn CV joints. Sadly I could only work on one side at a time so I was unable to do this.
Also, if you take off both axles at the same time you can swap them from left to right, this will get more life out of the worn CV joints. Sadly I could only work on one side at a time so I was unable to do this.
#6
Rennlist Member
Paul, that's one of the reasons I went with the one-use clamps rather than the screw-type clamps. Even though a couple of them ended up adjacent to bolt holes, I had no problems with clamp/bolt interference.
#7
Drifting
The clamps that came with the boot kit I bought were the same type as that on the tensioner boot (don't know what it's called though), and it was still large enough to get in the way of the bolts. The boots I removed had cable ties trying to hold them in place.