Fuel smell on start up when cold ??
02-18-2007, 10:49 PM
#16
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Originally Posted by JKelly
My guess is that it is a seal and the leak stops once the engine gets warm and opens up again after sitting overnight. 
03-07-2007, 12:01 AM
#17
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Follow up
I finally finished up this project today. It was the lower manifold o-ring seal on the 3rd injector. Several of those seals were so encrusted I had to take the fuel rail off first and then use a large screwdriver as a crowbar to pry the injectors out. They were a huge pain. The screw driver was literally bending.
After I got the seals and pintles replaced, I put the rail w/injectors back on, jumpered the relay to check for seal and fuel line leaks, put the intake back on, fired er' up, and went for a nice sunny-day drive
. No more smell, but I'll have to check it in the morning when its cold just to make sure.
Thanks for the help everyone
.
After I got the seals and pintles replaced, I put the rail w/injectors back on, jumpered the relay to check for seal and fuel line leaks, put the intake back on, fired er' up, and went for a nice sunny-day drive
. No more smell, but I'll have to check it in the morning when its cold just to make sure.Thanks for the help everyone
.
03-07-2007, 12:25 AM
#18
Burning Brakes
Great to hear, hope that was the true solution.
Up here in great white north we have ways to go before can consider getting our summer toys out to play.
Up here in great white north we have ways to go before can consider getting our summer toys out to play.
03-07-2007, 07:34 AM
#19
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Jkelly,
Nice piece of work and thanks for updating the post. I find that if I ignore posts like this or the resolution doesn't get posted, my car will develop the same problem just for kicks.
The other day I ignored a post about someone's directional not going or or off, thinking, 'that's one thing that works fine in my car'. Guess what went bad on my way home yesterday... Now where was that post?...
I don't suppose you took any pics or anything while you were in there? I haven't done the 'intake refresh' yet, and don't smell any fuel, but it's definitely in my near future.
Nice piece of work and thanks for updating the post. I find that if I ignore posts like this or the resolution doesn't get posted, my car will develop the same problem just for kicks.
The other day I ignored a post about someone's directional not going or or off, thinking, 'that's one thing that works fine in my car'. Guess what went bad on my way home yesterday... Now where was that post?...
I don't suppose you took any pics or anything while you were in there? I haven't done the 'intake refresh' yet, and don't smell any fuel, but it's definitely in my near future.
03-07-2007, 10:20 AM
#20
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"I don't suppose you took any pics or anything while you were in there? I haven't done the 'intake refresh' yet, and don't smell any fuel, but it's definitely in my near future." ditto that Mike!
John, I have had my side plenums and the top of the air box off to do some light-weight work, but now I want to get down into the "V" and clean it, plus powder coat those plenums, and replace all of the vacum lines (I got a new set recently) - anything to watch out for specially when taking this all apart? Mine's an '86 also, and your engine shots above were great....thanks
John, I have had my side plenums and the top of the air box off to do some light-weight work, but now I want to get down into the "V" and clean it, plus powder coat those plenums, and replace all of the vacum lines (I got a new set recently) - anything to watch out for specially when taking this all apart? Mine's an '86 also, and your engine shots above were great....thanks
03-07-2007, 01:27 PM
#21
Burning Brakes
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No fuel smell this morning .
I like when people follow through with their threads, so I always try to. It's frustrating to be reading about a problem that someone posted and then the thread just dead ends after several pages.
Unfortunately, I didn't take any more pics; sorry. I always take a ton of pics and this time I didn't. The process of accessing the injectors is pretty easy though. Like everything else, it is one step at a time. I originally took out the middle intake tube to locate the source of the fuel smell and to reattach a vacuum line that came off of the throttle body, but it also made more room to work. I don’t know if it would be necessary for removing the injectors. Here’s a quck rundown of the process for future reference:
- Take off the air intake tubes.
- Take off the air box.
- Take off the side intake plenums.
- To remove the center tube (not necessary?):
Take off the mass airflow sensor (MAF). It just pulls out; no clamps.
Use a long screwdriver and come from under the other intake tubes to access the hose clamps that secure the center tube (if they are positioned so you can get to them).
Maneuver the center tube out.
- Unscrew the spark plug wire holders from of the fuel rail.
- Unscrew the fuel rail from the fuel lines at both ends (19mm wrench). I stuffed some thick rags under each end to catch the fuel that drains out (1/4 - 1/2 cup full?).
- The wire harness runs along the upper inside edge of the fuel rail and is held in place by some plastic clips. I broke all of the clips to loosen the harness (they were brittle). They didn’t seem to be absolutely necessary anyway.
- Under the harness are two 10mm bolts near each end of the rail. Take them out.
- Carefully pull/pry up on the fuel rail to unseat all four injectors from the manifold.
- Stuff some small rags into the injector holes in the manifold to keep debris from falling in.
----Here is where I ran into problems. My injectors would not budge. ----
- There is a square-shaped clip at the upper end of each injector that is used to secure them to the fuel rail. I used a small screwdriver to pull all of them off.
- I pried on the fuel rail again. Two injectors came out and two stayed in.
- There is a small square-shaped wire clip that secures the electrical plugs to the injectors. These need to be removed before the plugs can be taken off.
- I used a large flat head screwdriver and a thick leather glove (as cam cover protection) to pry the other two injectors out of the manifold.
- I laid the fuel rail aside, cleaned the injectors off and replaced the o-rings (buy reseal kits beforehand). I had to forcefully, but carefully, yank the pintle caps off of the injectors with a pair of small vise grips.
There are services to use for cleaning and flowing the injectors if you need.
- I wiped a little WD-40 on both sets of o-rings and pushed the injectors back into the fuel rail. Most people recommend petroleum jelly (I didn’t have any).
- Put the injector clips back on.
- Clean the crud out of the injector holes in the manifold. I used an exacto knife, q-tips soaked with wd-40, and a shop vac.
- Attach the electrical plugs and their wire clips.
- Set the rail and injectors in there places.
- Push down on the rail enough to make sure the seals are all lined up with their holes.
- Screw the two 10mm rail bolts back in. This will seat the injector seals.
- Reattach the ends of the fuel rail to the fuel lines.
- Pull the fuel relay on the relay/fuse panel and jumper it to make the fuel pump run for a minute.
- Check for leaks at the rail attachment points and at the upper part of the injectors.
- Put everything back together in reverse order.
- Go for a drive and turn on the heat to smell for leaking gas.
There may be other ways of pursuing this job. This was just to get me by until later this summer when I can tear it down further (I also have a new vacuum kit ). The whole process seemed pretty straight forward just by looking at it so I didn't bother to waste time referencing the workshops manuals. They probably wouldn't have helped anyway.
HTH
.I like when people follow through with their threads, so I always try to. It's frustrating to be reading about a problem that someone posted and then the thread just dead ends after several pages.
Unfortunately, I didn't take any more pics; sorry. I always take a ton of pics and this time I didn't. The process of accessing the injectors is pretty easy though. Like everything else, it is one step at a time. I originally took out the middle intake tube to locate the source of the fuel smell and to reattach a vacuum line that came off of the throttle body, but it also made more room to work. I don’t know if it would be necessary for removing the injectors. Here’s a quck rundown of the process for future reference:
- Take off the air intake tubes.
- Take off the air box.
- Take off the side intake plenums.
- To remove the center tube (not necessary?):
Take off the mass airflow sensor (MAF). It just pulls out; no clamps.
Use a long screwdriver and come from under the other intake tubes to access the hose clamps that secure the center tube (if they are positioned so you can get to them).
Maneuver the center tube out.
- Unscrew the spark plug wire holders from of the fuel rail.
- Unscrew the fuel rail from the fuel lines at both ends (19mm wrench). I stuffed some thick rags under each end to catch the fuel that drains out (1/4 - 1/2 cup full?).
- The wire harness runs along the upper inside edge of the fuel rail and is held in place by some plastic clips. I broke all of the clips to loosen the harness (they were brittle). They didn’t seem to be absolutely necessary anyway.
- Under the harness are two 10mm bolts near each end of the rail. Take them out.
- Carefully pull/pry up on the fuel rail to unseat all four injectors from the manifold.
- Stuff some small rags into the injector holes in the manifold to keep debris from falling in.
----Here is where I ran into problems. My injectors would not budge. ----
- There is a square-shaped clip at the upper end of each injector that is used to secure them to the fuel rail. I used a small screwdriver to pull all of them off.
- I pried on the fuel rail again. Two injectors came out and two stayed in.
- There is a small square-shaped wire clip that secures the electrical plugs to the injectors. These need to be removed before the plugs can be taken off.
- I used a large flat head screwdriver and a thick leather glove (as cam cover protection) to pry the other two injectors out of the manifold.
- I laid the fuel rail aside, cleaned the injectors off and replaced the o-rings (buy reseal kits beforehand). I had to forcefully, but carefully, yank the pintle caps off of the injectors with a pair of small vise grips.
There are services to use for cleaning and flowing the injectors if you need.
- I wiped a little WD-40 on both sets of o-rings and pushed the injectors back into the fuel rail. Most people recommend petroleum jelly (I didn’t have any).
- Put the injector clips back on.
- Clean the crud out of the injector holes in the manifold. I used an exacto knife, q-tips soaked with wd-40, and a shop vac.
- Attach the electrical plugs and their wire clips.
- Set the rail and injectors in there places.
- Push down on the rail enough to make sure the seals are all lined up with their holes.
- Screw the two 10mm rail bolts back in. This will seat the injector seals.
- Reattach the ends of the fuel rail to the fuel lines.
- Pull the fuel relay on the relay/fuse panel and jumper it to make the fuel pump run for a minute.
- Check for leaks at the rail attachment points and at the upper part of the injectors.
- Put everything back together in reverse order.
- Go for a drive and turn on the heat to smell for leaking gas.
There may be other ways of pursuing this job. This was just to get me by until later this summer when I can tear it down further (I also have a new vacuum kit
). The whole process seemed pretty straight forward just by looking at it so I didn't bother to waste time referencing the workshops manuals. They probably wouldn't have helped anyway.HTH