DonS

Stupid question number 1.

Got mine in and removed the old NB sensor. (I'll be using the NB output to the ECU and not welding in another bung - at least for now.)

It was a simple three-wire. Looked quite old and sooted over; also noticed that it wasn't even tightened down! I'm sure that it was occasionally leaking air through the threads and throwing the sensor off. And I'm going to go get one of those special bent 22mm open-end wrenches. Damn that's a tight space.

So now the big question - how to get that gigantic D plug on the end of the sensor wire through the console hole? No way it'll fit without cutting the floorboard or splicing all those nice new wires (which I'm sure would void my warranty). What's everyone else done, take a dremel to the existing hole and enlarge it or what?

Stupid question number 2.

Where are you pulling the (switched) 12V? I've got enough electrical experience that it's no big deal but I don't want to go behind the fuse panel unless I have to. Just pull it anyway?

AO

Don,
Q1
1st - I don't know first hand (Sab does though) but the NB emulation doesn't work so well, so be careful. I'd spend the $50-$75 and get the 2nd bung.

2nd - I was able to disconnect the wire leads into the D-plug, and fish them trough the hold and re-attach. The leads have a barb on either side of the spade connector. I was able to use paper clips to disengage the barbs and the slip the wire out. There might be a little cover you have to take off 1st - can't remember exactly. BTW< be sure to record the wiring sequence so you can put it back together correctly.

Q2
Sorry, I don't remember at all.

Louie928

Q2
You can use the +12 heater supply from the original sensor plug. I usually cut the plug off of the old NB sensor. Use that plug to plug it in where it used to go and use the +12 for the WB sensor and feed the WB sensor NB simulated signel back in to the NB sensor wire that goes to the LH. Be careful of your grounds though. From reading the LC-1 instructions, and problems on the Innovate forum, it seems that improper grounding can lead to all sorts of trouble.

DonS

I've read the posts and comments about the free-air calibration hassles some have had. Innovate responds with more strict procedures and I'd like to give a try, though. No practical reason the sensor shouldn't be able to be a permanent emulator of the NB.

I'll seriously consider your advice about pulling the cat section and having the bung welded on if I start to experience problems. I'm at the bottom end of the budget scale and would prefer not to have another expenditure. Even with the price break on the LC-1 I've blown this month's budget.

Explorations tonight on following what you say about separating the leads from the plug. As a solution this would be perfect.

Louie,

I've got the old L-jet with an AFM. I take it (with your advice implying) the ECU isn't watching the heater wires or is that only on newer systems?

As for the grounds, I read it the same way. It's very picky on cross-ground voltages.

Thanks again,
Don

John Speake

If you reuse the old plug with old wires, use your ohm meter to make sure you get the correct ground (chassis ) wire. IIRC there are two black wires , one ground at LH ECU The other black one is +12v so you don't want to use that as a ground by mistake.... the white wire is the sensor NB input to the LH ECU.

DonS

Thanks, John. Good suggestion and I'll be careful and check my wires.

BrianG

I have 2 bungs so I'm not messing with the NB emmulation, but as far as installing the LC-1, Innovate tells you that the LC-1 is totally weather-proof, so I mounted the LC-1 unit up under the right side CAT heat shield. I zip-tied it to the fuel lines up there and then wrapped it with a protective layer of duct tape. I also used a 1" hole saw and drilled another hole in the floor-board, along-side the one for the OEM O2 sensor wire. I drilled this second hole because of the number of sensor wires I have entering the cockpit for the LC-1, LMA-3 and the TC-4, as well as the vacuum gage line. I protected the holes with large grommets, and then packed the space with butyl RV sealer after the wires are in place. These holes are also up under that same heat shiled.

I have replaced the CAT's with an "X-pipe" so I have no concern about heat up under the shield for the LC-1.

S4-on-your-back-door

they say it water proof but mine seemed to suck up water. I had to return it. Im now going to place it inside the car.

Rob Edwards

I picked up an LC-1 in order to be able to run an AFR gauge in a few months, and in the mean time am trying to decide whether to have a second bung installed in the OEM cat pipes or not. Of course, option #1 is to stick the LC-1 in the factory bung and let it feed simulated NB to the LH, but that may have issues.

So, for those who A) have a stock S4 exhaust, and B) had a second bung installed, where'd you put it? My concerns include 1) far enough from the exhaust manifolds not to cook it, 2) is putting it in one bank's downpipes representative of the true A/F ratio, 3) keeping it at or above horizontal to avoid condensation, 4) not interfering with heat shields, belly pans, etc. 5)whatever else I haven't thought of

For those of you with PS skillz, pin the sensor on the cat:

Tony

On my x pipe its installed in this appx location. No issues at all. I made a copper heat sink out of a sheet of 4"x4" copper. The copper hangs down in the airstream.( See 2nd pic) ive had mine there now for over a year.

Louie928

I've run the LH from NB sim out of a wideband without any problem. It was a Tech Edge brand rather than an Innovate. I think if you mind your grounds it'll be ok. For an extra bung, I put the O2 sensor about where Tony did. It doesn't seem to matter whether sensing one side or both. Guess it would if you had an injector problem though. I've never used a heat sink as I think it's far enough away so as to not get too hot, but might on a SC engine.

AO

Nice feet Rob...

I also have an X-pipe like Tony and my O2s are located just like Tony points to. One side is NB, the other is WB.

Remember that each coil/distributor controls 2 cylinders on each side of the engine. So if a coil or distributor went down it would affect each side equally. The only issue with locating the O2 in the down pipe for lack of a better term is if an injector went south as Louie suggests.

You can try putting the WB in for now and running the NB sim. It won't hurt anything. Just be prepared in case you start having "issues."

John Speake

Some LC-1s did have some issues with the simulated NB output on Analog 1, freaking out from time to time and requiring a repeat of free air calibration.

It appears from more recent reports on this list that the problem has now been fixed in updated software now issued by Innovate.