MM REPLACMENT LOWER CROSS BOLTS OUT HOW TO SWING FRAME OUT OF THE WAY
02-12-2007, 05:16 PM
#1
Race Car
Thread Starter
MM REPLACMENT LOWER CROSS BOLTS OUT HOW TO SWING FRAME OUT OF THE WAY
All the bolts are out the lower A-frame bushings need to be moved out of the way to drop the cross member. Any magic to this I am replacing the struts after this should I just losen the top bolts and pray?
02-12-2007, 05:35 PM
#2
Basic Sponsor
Rennlist
Site Sponsor
Rennlist
Site Sponsor
Mark,
You need to remove the Steering Rack plate and let the rack hang down as far as possible
Then unbolt the crossmember. The lower A arms move out of the way with some persuassion.
Remember there are two horizontal bolts one at each end.
Read this http://members.rennlist.com/pirtle/svc.html
You need to remove the Steering Rack plate and let the rack hang down as far as possible
Then unbolt the crossmember. The lower A arms move out of the way with some persuassion.
Remember there are two horizontal bolts one at each end.
Read this http://members.rennlist.com/pirtle/svc.html
__________________
Does it have the "Do It Yourself" manual transmission, or the superior "Fully Equipped by Porsche" Automatic Transmission?
George Layton March 2014
928 Owners are ".....a secret sect of quietly assured Porsche pragmatists who in near anonymity appreciate the prodigious, easy going prowess of the 928."
Does it have the "Do It Yourself" manual transmission, or the superior "Fully Equipped by Porsche" Automatic Transmission?
George Layton March 2014928 Owners are ".....a secret sect of quietly assured Porsche pragmatists who in near anonymity appreciate the prodigious, easy going prowess of the 928."
02-12-2007, 08:16 PM
#3
Race Car
Thread Starter
Another ?
Got the M Mounts out the oil pan gasket looks fine no leaks, I have a ? leave it alone or resupport the motor to change it. I have a bottle jack holding the motor up for now. I have a motor jack "free from my neighbor down the street", and a lift, I just can't support the motor from the top and use the lift at the same time 
I have not seen anyone recommend supporting the motor by two bottle jacks on the motor mounts supports while changing the gasket. Is there another area or would this work ok or am I asking for trouble.
I have not seen anyone recommend supporting the motor by two bottle jacks on the motor mounts supports while changing the gasket. Is there another area or would this work ok or am I asking for trouble.
02-12-2007, 08:28 PM
#4
Rennlist Member
You're better off supporting from the top. Do a search for engine support bar; many people have improvised with a 4x4 and some chain, 928motorsports sells a nice engine support for <$100 IIRC.
02-12-2007, 08:33 PM
#5
Rennlist Member
You can use two bottle jacks on the MM ears to support the motor.
I have done the pan by using a floor jack and a sturdy piece of 2x10 under the lower bell housing - this will steady the engine for the time required to R&R the pan gasket: Just have everything prepared prior to starting, and note that it need only be lifted a minimal amount.
I have done the pan by using a floor jack and a sturdy piece of 2x10 under the lower bell housing - this will steady the engine for the time required to R&R the pan gasket: Just have everything prepared prior to starting, and note that it need only be lifted a minimal amount.
02-13-2007, 02:16 AM
#6
Chronic Tool Dropper
Lifetime Rennlist
Member
Lifetime Rennlist
Member
I used tall stands under the MM bosses on the block after removing all the bolts while a jack was under the sump. Also watched the same job with a couple pieces of 4x4 lumber cut to length instead of the stands. With the weight of the motor on them they won't get kicked out without some effort.
Nicest setup is the overhead support rig that Motorsports sells for just this task. It spans the fender channels, and there's a bug bolt with a big-handled nut on it, with a short chain that attaches at the front-center lift bracket. You could probably MM something with lumber for this, but I'm not sure I'd want to be laying under there with 500+ lbs of motor over my head, held up with drywall screws or something.
Supporting the overhanging weight of the engine with a single support under the bellhousing puts a lot of strain on the torque tube as well as the bellhousing itself. If you have to, get an engine hoist (rental shop) and just tie it to the front lift bracket. You don't really need to 'lift' the engine to do the sump gasket, just keep it from dropping. You'll need to lift it maybe 3/4" higher than it was when you put the crossmember back in, since the new MM's are a little taller that the old ones.
Nicest setup is the overhead support rig that Motorsports sells for just this task. It spans the fender channels, and there's a bug bolt with a big-handled nut on it, with a short chain that attaches at the front-center lift bracket. You could probably MM something with lumber for this, but I'm not sure I'd want to be laying under there with 500+ lbs of motor over my head, held up with drywall screws or something.
Supporting the overhanging weight of the engine with a single support under the bellhousing puts a lot of strain on the torque tube as well as the bellhousing itself. If you have to, get an engine hoist (rental shop) and just tie it to the front lift bracket. You don't really need to 'lift' the engine to do the sump gasket, just keep it from dropping. You'll need to lift it maybe 3/4" higher than it was when you put the crossmember back in, since the new MM's are a little taller that the old ones.