Motor Mount Replacement Without Dropping Crossmember
#16
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Matt,
I sent you a PM with the prices of the X pipe.
Roger
I sent you a PM with the prices of the X pipe.
Roger
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Does it have the "Do It Yourself" manual transmission, or the superior "Fully Equipped by Porsche" Automatic Transmission? George Layton March 2014
928 Owners are ".....a secret sect of quietly assured Porsche pragmatists who in near anonymity appreciate the prodigious, easy going prowess of the 928."
Does it have the "Do It Yourself" manual transmission, or the superior "Fully Equipped by Porsche" Automatic Transmission? George Layton March 2014
928 Owners are ".....a secret sect of quietly assured Porsche pragmatists who in near anonymity appreciate the prodigious, easy going prowess of the 928."
#18
Drifting
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Mustang pressurizes the radiator, but not the overflow
Marton
#19
Nordschleife Master
It may say don't remove or something too, normally it isn't except to replace the cap, with coolant going in the overflow except when filling the radiator after a flush etc.
#20
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With a little help and some air tools I could do this job in less than 10 hours and that includes removing the oil pan and installing a silicone gasket.
I think you did a great job guys but I do not see an advantage as yet - or am I missing something.
The removal of the cross member is fairly straight forward and getting it back not to bad (yes I have done it a few times).
So what was your rational for taking this route? Time, ease of work?
Again thanks for the input and proof that there is another way.
Roger
I think you did a great job guys but I do not see an advantage as yet - or am I missing something.
The removal of the cross member is fairly straight forward and getting it back not to bad (yes I have done it a few times).
So what was your rational for taking this route? Time, ease of work?
Again thanks for the input and proof that there is another way.
Roger
#22
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Originally Posted by ROG100
With a little help and some air tools I could do this job in less than 10 hours and that includes removing the oil pan and installing a silicone gasket.
I think you did a great job guys but I do not see an advantage as yet - or am I missing something.
The removal of the cross member is fairly straight forward and getting it back not to bad (yes I have done it a few times).
So what was your rational for taking this route? Time, ease of work?
Again thanks for the input and proof that there is another way.
Roger
I think you did a great job guys but I do not see an advantage as yet - or am I missing something.
The removal of the cross member is fairly straight forward and getting it back not to bad (yes I have done it a few times).
So what was your rational for taking this route? Time, ease of work?
Again thanks for the input and proof that there is another way.
Roger
i think it's more proving the point ,that it can be done without dropping the cross member
#23
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Also agree that this is an interesting alternative to MM replacement; however, as two sets of hands are specified for certain aspects ... and I work alone ... dropping the X-member shall remain the preferred route.
Although if a cup of anything is available to be shared .... even .... ugh ... tea ... I clearly support the merit in having a contributing pal who is willing to get greasy.
Although if a cup of anything is available to be shared .... even .... ugh ... tea ... I clearly support the merit in having a contributing pal who is willing to get greasy.
#25
Originally Posted by ceedee
roger
i think it's more proving the point ,that it can be done without dropping the cross member
i think it's more proving the point ,that it can be done without dropping the cross member
Joel
#26
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Originally Posted by matt928nut
It took us 2 and a half days of leisurely 4-5 hours per day ...
#27
Drifting
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however, as two sets of hands are specified for certain aspects ... and I work alone
Marton
#28
Drifting
Thread Starter
I have plenty of fluid leaks on the LHS of the car, hence the heatsheild bolts came out easily. The RHS heatshield bolts are dry and are never going to move, so I'm now completely stuck. The only option is to grind off the captive nuts from below, it looks reasonably practical to do one of them, but the other is recessed somewhat. I need to buy some grinding tools.
#29
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Pros/Cons of dropping the X-member
Pros; ------------------------------ Cons --------------------------------------
1) heat shields stay in place -------- a) TBD
Sorry, couldn't resist. Hope you can get a dremel in there to slice it free.
Pros; ------------------------------ Cons --------------------------------------
1) heat shields stay in place -------- a) TBD
Sorry, couldn't resist. Hope you can get a dremel in there to slice it free.
#30
Drifting
Thread Starter
Unfortunately a dremel isn't going to work. I need to grind off the entire captive nut, otherwise I won't be able to put the heatsheild back.
Your picture also has another clue as to why removing the cross member doesn't seem too awkward - Air Tools. Unfortunately I'm doing everything by hand, even cutting the threads down on the MM I'm using a 12" hacksaw, which takes at least ten mins each when you don't have a vice to hold them still (again not neccessary if you remove the cross member).
Your picture also has another clue as to why removing the cross member doesn't seem too awkward - Air Tools. Unfortunately I'm doing everything by hand, even cutting the threads down on the MM I'm using a 12" hacksaw, which takes at least ten mins each when you don't have a vice to hold them still (again not neccessary if you remove the cross member).