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Matt,
I sent you a PM with the prices of the X pipe.
Roger
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Does it have the "Do It Yourself" manual transmission, or the superior "Fully Equipped by Porsche" Automatic Transmission? George Layton March 2014
928 Owners are ".....a secret sect of quietly assured Porsche pragmatists who in near anonymity appreciate the prodigious, easy going prowess of the 928."
It may say don't remove or something too, normally it isn't except to replace the cap, with coolant going in the overflow except when filling the radiator after a flush etc.
With a little help and some air tools I could do this job in less than 10 hours and that includes removing the oil pan and installing a silicone gasket.
I think you did a great job guys but I do not see an advantage as yet - or am I missing something.
The removal of the cross member is fairly straight forward and getting it back not to bad (yes I have done it a few times).
So what was your rational for taking this route? Time, ease of work?
Again thanks for the input and proof that there is another way.
Roger
With a little help and some air tools I could do this job in less than 10 hours and that includes removing the oil pan and installing a silicone gasket.
I think you did a great job guys but I do not see an advantage as yet - or am I missing something.
The removal of the cross member is fairly straight forward and getting it back not to bad (yes I have done it a few times).
So what was your rational for taking this route? Time, ease of work?
Again thanks for the input and proof that there is another way.
Roger
roger
i think it's more proving the point ,that it can be done without dropping the cross member
Also agree that this is an interesting alternative to MM replacement; however, as two sets of hands are specified for certain aspects ... and I work alone ... dropping the X-member shall remain the preferred route.
Although if a cup of anything is available to be shared .... even .... ugh ... tea ... I clearly support the merit in having a contributing pal who is willing to get greasy.
roger
i think it's more proving the point ,that it can be done without dropping the cross member
That and the fact that Matt had used this method before so it was "known". the way things worked out it might have been just as quick to drop the x-member, but we didn't know that at the time!
I have plenty of fluid leaks on the LHS of the car, hence the heatsheild bolts came out easily. The RHS heatshield bolts are dry and are never going to move, so I'm now completely stuck. The only option is to grind off the captive nuts from below, it looks reasonably practical to do one of them, but the other is recessed somewhat. I need to buy some grinding tools.
Unfortunately a dremel isn't going to work. I need to grind off the entire captive nut, otherwise I won't be able to put the heatsheild back.
Your picture also has another clue as to why removing the cross member doesn't seem too awkward - Air Tools. Unfortunately I'm doing everything by hand, even cutting the threads down on the MM I'm using a 12" hacksaw, which takes at least ten mins each when you don't have a vice to hold them still (again not neccessary if you remove the cross member).
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