ROG100

Matt,
I sent you a PM with the prices of the X pipe.
Roger

matt928nut

GR8 !!! THANX a bunch
Matt... '87 S4 Manual

marton

Thanks, Danglerb. I will have to get some new glasses and look for the radiator cap

Marton

danglerb

It may say don't remove or something too, normally it isn't except to replace the cap, with coolant going in the overflow except when filling the radiator after a flush etc.

ROG100

With a little help and some air tools I could do this job in less than 10 hours and that includes removing the oil pan and installing a silicone gasket.
I think you did a great job guys but I do not see an advantage as yet - or am I missing something.
The removal of the cross member is fairly straight forward and getting it back not to bad (yes I have done it a few times).
So what was your rational for taking this route? Time, ease of work?
Again thanks for the input and proof that there is another way.
Roger

ceedee

can you send me one too?

ceedee

roger
i think it's more proving the point ,that it can be done without dropping the cross member

Garth S

Also agree that this is an interesting alternative to MM replacement; however, as two sets of hands are specified for certain aspects ... and I work alone ... dropping the X-member shall remain the preferred route.
Although if a cup of anything is available to be shared .... even .... ugh ... tea ... I clearly support the merit in having a contributing pal who is willing to get greasy.

UKKid35

Working single handed on my 87 S4 RHD

Only done LHS mount so far

hopwood

That and the fact that Matt had used this method before so it was "known". the way things worked out it might have been just as quick to drop the x-member, but we didn't know that at the time!

Joel

the flyin' scotsman

So 10 - 12 hrs X 2 folks equates to +20hrs. Interesting alternative way but I would stick to the X member removal flying solo doing the 'sump' gskt.

marton

the guy who invented the (non cross member removal) process also works alone and claims to change the MMs in les stha 4 hours.

Marton

UKKid35

I have plenty of fluid leaks on the LHS of the car, hence the heatsheild bolts came out easily. The RHS heatshield bolts are dry and are never going to move, so I'm now completely stuck. The only option is to grind off the captive nuts from below, it looks reasonably practical to do one of them, but the other is recessed somewhat. I need to buy some grinding tools.

Garth S

Pros/Cons of dropping the X-member

Pros; ------------------------------ Cons --------------------------------------
1) heat shields stay in place -------- a) TBD



Sorry, couldn't resist. Hope you can get a dremel in there to slice it free.

UKKid35

Unfortunately a dremel isn't going to work. I need to grind off the entire captive nut, otherwise I won't be able to put the heatsheild back.

Your picture also has another clue as to why removing the cross member doesn't seem too awkward - Air Tools. Unfortunately I'm doing everything by hand, even cutting the threads down on the MM I'm using a 12" hacksaw, which takes at least ten mins each when you don't have a vice to hold them still (again not neccessary if you remove the cross member).