Motor Mount Replacement Without Dropping Crossmember
02-04-2007, 04:21 AM
#1
Drifting
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Motor Mount Replacement Without Dropping Crossmember
Car is 86 Euro RHD, no CATs or exhaust sensor
I was just observing and offering moral support, and was only present when the new RHS mount was fitted.
Matt was head mechanic, assisted by Joel - car owner.
Problems they encountered included:
Pictures show Matt and Joel, triamphant after removing troublesome RHS mount, approx location of new RHS mount without bracket, and new LHS mount and bracket in postion.
I was just observing and offering moral support, and was only present when the new RHS mount was fitted.
Matt was head mechanic, assisted by Joel - car owner.
Problems they encountered included:
- Removing Heat Sheilds
- Seized top nut on the old RHS MM, neccessitating removing mount and bracket in one peice
- Trim the new MM threads significantly (my sole contribution)
- Hold the bracket up against the engine and turn the MM so that the top thread goes in the bracket first, and the bottom thread goes in the crossmember
- Once mastered include the bracket's round plate
- Tap the interlocking bracket parts in to place
Pictures show Matt and Joel, triamphant after removing troublesome RHS mount, approx location of new RHS mount without bracket, and new LHS mount and bracket in postion.
Last edited by UKKid35; 02-04-2007 at 08:12 AM.
02-04-2007, 06:51 AM
#2
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Paul,
Nice to put faces to the names and those MM look familiar.
I am really interested in how they removed the MM without removing the cross member.
How long did the job take?
Thanks,
Roger
Nice to put faces to the names and those MM look familiar.
I am really interested in how they removed the MM without removing the cross member.
How long did the job take?
Thanks,
Roger
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Does it have the "Do It Yourself" manual transmission, or the superior "Fully Equipped by Porsche" Automatic Transmission?
George Layton March 2014
928 Owners are ".....a secret sect of quietly assured Porsche pragmatists who in near anonymity appreciate the prodigious, easy going prowess of the 928."
Does it have the "Do It Yourself" manual transmission, or the superior "Fully Equipped by Porsche" Automatic Transmission?
George Layton March 2014928 Owners are ".....a secret sect of quietly assured Porsche pragmatists who in near anonymity appreciate the prodigious, easy going prowess of the 928."
02-04-2007, 07:29 AM
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Yeah, x2.
Interesting idea, I hadn't thought of cutting down the threads. I guess it's no big deal to cut down the old ones, if it's even necessary with the old ones collapsed as they probably were.
I also wonder if it saved any time or just effort (which is still a savings, I'll grant you), especially since it's all dirty grunt work. More pics would have been cool, but thanks for the alternate take on this.
Interesting idea, I hadn't thought of cutting down the threads. I guess it's no big deal to cut down the old ones, if it's even necessary with the old ones collapsed as they probably were.
I also wonder if it saved any time or just effort (which is still a savings, I'll grant you), especially since it's all dirty grunt work. More pics would have been cool, but thanks for the alternate take on this.
02-04-2007, 07:49 AM
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I am really interested in how they removed the MM without removing the cross member.
How long did the job take?
Thanks,
Roger
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Ditto... I'm really interested in this technique. Could you elaborate on it more.
Ed M
How long did the job take?
Thanks,
Roger
__________________
Ditto... I'm really interested in this technique. Could you elaborate on it more.
Ed M
02-04-2007, 08:10 AM
#5
Drifting
Thread Starter
There is little more I can add as I was only there for a couple of hours, long enough to see the second MM being gently persuaded to get ******* in there!
I have encouraged Matt and Joel to contribute to this thread so hopefully you'll have more details soon.
I have encouraged Matt and Joel to contribute to this thread so hopefully you'll have more details soon.
02-10-2007, 04:35 PM
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Originally Posted by UKKid35
There is little more I can add as I was only there for a couple of hours, long enough to see the second MM being gently persuaded to get ******* in there!
I have encouraged Matt and Joel to contribute to this thread so hopefully you'll have more details soon.
I have encouraged Matt and Joel to contribute to this thread so hopefully you'll have more details soon.
Hi there Paul... and ALL U 928 guys in disbelief that we didn't touch the X member to get the Motor Mount in & out... well it's TRUE ... and Joel is ONE Happy 928 Chappy
enjoying his NEW mounts... I'm about to do the same job on my '87 S4 Manual 
this Sunday, but I might have to drop the X member as I'm also planning to do the Sump Gasket, at the same time 
... I don't want to but it will make both of my jobs easier... I think Joel did a good write up on one of the UK list and will post on here soon and tell ALL how we did the Motor Mount job without unbolting the X member... watch this space...
Matt... RHD (UK spec) G.P. White '87 S4 Manual / Factory LSD / Full Black leather
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02-10-2007, 04:46 PM
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Originally Posted by ROG100
Matt,
Are you using the Silicone gasket? If you are at least you will never have to do it again.
Roger
Are you using the Silicone gasket? If you are at least you will never have to do it again.
Roger
... BIG job I know... but one I've done three times before (without dropping the X member) ... I'll keep U guys posted how it goes... Matt928nut...
1987 RHD S4 Manual (UK speck)
G.P. White with Full Black Leather
with 12 way Orthopedic memory seat
and only 113K GENUINE miles from NEW
02-10-2007, 06:31 PM
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Joel posted this description; thanks Joel
Well a few weeks ago Matt H dropped me an email about engine mounts. I
had an order coming over from the US and after spending a couple of
hours on rennlist I decided to go for the solid rubber Anchor mounts
at $30 each from www.928sRus.com. At that price I figured it didn't
really matter if they were slightly inferior to the Porsche mounts at
£200+ each, and Roger who sold them to me insisted (having installed 5
sets) that they were in fact superior to the hydraulic items.
Matt suggested that I bring the car up to his barn so we could install
the mounts. The procedure is as follows:
- put car up on ramps under front wheels
- remove air box and tubing
- remove cross member cover
- unbolt anti-roll bar and swing downwards
- unbolt earth strap on RHS
- remove heat shields
This takes a little while. Your heat shields may be badly rusted and
are held on by 2 10mm bolts that you need to unscrew from above.
You'll need a 10mm stubby ratchet spanner.
- remove cross strut from engine bay (requires a 6mm or 7mm hex key)
- jack engine up until just touching the firewall
Smiffy recommends jacking the engine from one side (the side which you
are removing the mount from, then swap over to the other side). We
actually found that jacking from the centre of the sump got it up just
as high, but your mileage may vary.
Be very, very careful when jacking the engine. Have your assistant
feel the front wheels for the first traces of lightness - this will
indicate that the engine has gone as far upwards as it can and you
should jack no further.
You may find that jacking, gently releasing and re-jacking the engine
gets it further. You get a slightly different lift each time. Hoisting
the engine from above is not necessary.
- unbolt the engine mounts from their brackets (19mm bolt from above).
- unbolt the EM brackets from the block (2 bolts from below).
- separate the mounts from the brackets
You will now be able to jiggle the EM, bracket and circular plate
around freely in the gap. At this point you will probably be thinking
'how the hell am I ever going to get this damn thing out?'. Make a cup
of tea.
- fiddle, fiddle fiddle until you can remove first the bracket, then
the mount. In our case the LHS mount came out after the braket and
plate. On the RHS we could not unbolt the old mount from its bracket
so they had to come out in 1 piece.
** If it looks impossible, release and rejack the engine. Remember you
will get a different lift each time. Perseverance is the key.
- You've now got the old mounts out - congratulations. This may have
taken you an hour or two, so time for another cup of tea and then you
need to get the new mounts in.
- We had to use an angle grinder to reduce the length of the bolt on
the new engine mount as it was just too long to fit in, especially as
the new mount will be a lot bigger than the compressed and collasped
old mount.
- It took Matt a solid 30 minutes of fiddling to arrange the plate,
new mount and bracket successfully 'in situ' on the LHS which we did
first. There was in fact no need to remove the oil filter on my S2.
This is the part that is like solving a rubik's cube one handed in the
dark.
- on the RHS it was a 2 man job. Firstly have your assistant hold the
bracket in place, but held tight vertically as high as you can
(against the block). Person 2 manoeuvres the new mount into place with
the circular plate underneath the bracket. Person 1 then takes the
upward pressure off the bracket and it all drops into place. You may
need to use a mallet and a long screwdriver to get the plate to hook
onto the bracket in the correct way. Again, allow half an hour to an
hour just for this bit.
- You're now ready to release the engine down and bolt up.
The heat shields are a bitch to get back on - you may have to bolt
them in reverse by threading a bolt upwards through the captive nut
(we did). Replacing the original and knackered bolts with stainless
steel is a smart move.
- Bolt everything back on in reverse order. Don't forget the cross
strut in the engine bay and be careful with it - I've read tales of
windscreens cracking when this is removed.
- Don't forget the earth strap and anything else you may have disturbed.
- Don't forget to release the steering lock before you do up the
anti-roll bar (d'oh)
When you've got everything back on, start the engine and rev it.
Marvel at the way it rocks from side to side and tell yourself it was
time well spent. Go for a spin.
Joel
Well a few weeks ago Matt H dropped me an email about engine mounts. I
had an order coming over from the US and after spending a couple of
hours on rennlist I decided to go for the solid rubber Anchor mounts
at $30 each from www.928sRus.com. At that price I figured it didn't
really matter if they were slightly inferior to the Porsche mounts at
£200+ each, and Roger who sold them to me insisted (having installed 5
sets) that they were in fact superior to the hydraulic items.
Matt suggested that I bring the car up to his barn so we could install
the mounts. The procedure is as follows:
- put car up on ramps under front wheels
- remove air box and tubing
- remove cross member cover
- unbolt anti-roll bar and swing downwards
- unbolt earth strap on RHS
- remove heat shields
This takes a little while. Your heat shields may be badly rusted and
are held on by 2 10mm bolts that you need to unscrew from above.
You'll need a 10mm stubby ratchet spanner.
- remove cross strut from engine bay (requires a 6mm or 7mm hex key)
- jack engine up until just touching the firewall
Smiffy recommends jacking the engine from one side (the side which you
are removing the mount from, then swap over to the other side). We
actually found that jacking from the centre of the sump got it up just
as high, but your mileage may vary.
Be very, very careful when jacking the engine. Have your assistant
feel the front wheels for the first traces of lightness - this will
indicate that the engine has gone as far upwards as it can and you
should jack no further.
You may find that jacking, gently releasing and re-jacking the engine
gets it further. You get a slightly different lift each time. Hoisting
the engine from above is not necessary.
- unbolt the engine mounts from their brackets (19mm bolt from above).
- unbolt the EM brackets from the block (2 bolts from below).
- separate the mounts from the brackets
You will now be able to jiggle the EM, bracket and circular plate
around freely in the gap. At this point you will probably be thinking
'how the hell am I ever going to get this damn thing out?'. Make a cup
of tea.
- fiddle, fiddle fiddle until you can remove first the bracket, then
the mount. In our case the LHS mount came out after the braket and
plate. On the RHS we could not unbolt the old mount from its bracket
so they had to come out in 1 piece.
** If it looks impossible, release and rejack the engine. Remember you
will get a different lift each time. Perseverance is the key.
- You've now got the old mounts out - congratulations. This may have
taken you an hour or two, so time for another cup of tea and then you
need to get the new mounts in.
- We had to use an angle grinder to reduce the length of the bolt on
the new engine mount as it was just too long to fit in, especially as
the new mount will be a lot bigger than the compressed and collasped
old mount.
- It took Matt a solid 30 minutes of fiddling to arrange the plate,
new mount and bracket successfully 'in situ' on the LHS which we did
first. There was in fact no need to remove the oil filter on my S2.
This is the part that is like solving a rubik's cube one handed in the
dark.
- on the RHS it was a 2 man job. Firstly have your assistant hold the
bracket in place, but held tight vertically as high as you can
(against the block). Person 2 manoeuvres the new mount into place with
the circular plate underneath the bracket. Person 1 then takes the
upward pressure off the bracket and it all drops into place. You may
need to use a mallet and a long screwdriver to get the plate to hook
onto the bracket in the correct way. Again, allow half an hour to an
hour just for this bit.
- You're now ready to release the engine down and bolt up.
The heat shields are a bitch to get back on - you may have to bolt
them in reverse by threading a bolt upwards through the captive nut
(we did). Replacing the original and knackered bolts with stainless
steel is a smart move.
- Bolt everything back on in reverse order. Don't forget the cross
strut in the engine bay and be careful with it - I've read tales of
windscreens cracking when this is removed.
- Don't forget the earth strap and anything else you may have disturbed.
- Don't forget to release the steering lock before you do up the
anti-roll bar (d'oh)
When you've got everything back on, start the engine and rev it.
Marvel at the way it rocks from side to side and tell yourself it was
time well spent. Go for a spin.
Joel
02-10-2007, 06:47 PM
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That's it Marton... does this inspire confidence for U and Pablo to do this job on your own ??? If U get stuck , give me a shout and I'll pop down to Zurich with some useful tools & knowhow, and give U two a hand ... make sure U send me a return flight ticket first though
Matt... doing my '87 S4 Manual MMs and SG tomorrow... GOD help me
Matt... doing my '87 S4 Manual MMs and SG tomorrow... GOD help me
02-10-2007, 06:56 PM
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Hi Matt
I assumed you mis typed? You meant "send me a return first ticket..."'
I have a lot on at the moment; trying to get the 928 back on the road with a decent TB & WP.
So I have a working car & I can start to find out why the Mustang started overheating yesterday & get the Mustang back on the road, I assume it is due to a water leak. So far as I can see the Mustang does not have a pressurised cooling system, there is no pressure cap; just a push on plastic cap on the expansion tank. So I do not know if i should pressurise the system to find the leak; off to the Mustang forum.....
Also some Swiss chemical company is trying to drag me out of retirement to run a project starting next week.
Marton
They say stress comes from inside not outside
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make sure U send me a return flight ticket first though
I have a lot on at the moment; trying to get the 928 back on the road with a decent TB & WP.
So I have a working car & I can start to find out why the Mustang started overheating yesterday & get the Mustang back on the road, I assume it is due to a water leak. So far as I can see the Mustang does not have a pressurised cooling system, there is no pressure cap; just a push on plastic cap on the expansion tank. So I do not know if i should pressurise the system to find the leak; off to the Mustang forum.....
Also some Swiss chemical company is trying to drag me out of retirement to run a project starting next week.
Marton
They say stress comes from inside not outside
02-10-2007, 07:03 PM
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NO typo m8...
I mean what I said...
Sound like U don't have time to do Pablo's car at the mo. ???
Best of LUCK with the STANG ... I hope the problem is a small one
and an easy solution is just 'round the corner
...
Matt... don't talk to me about STRESS ...it seems to come from ALL directions
I mean what I said...
Sound like U don't have time to do Pablo's car at the mo. ???
Best of LUCK with the STANG ... I hope the problem is a small one
and an easy solution is just 'round the corner
...Matt... don't talk to me about STRESS ...it seems to come from ALL directions
02-10-2007, 08:04 PM
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Hi Matt & Joel,
I am glad everything worked out well and thank you for your business.
For the record the MMs are not Anchor, they are made by another manufacturer to the same specs.
They have a seperate part number for solid and hydraulic.
I have installed a lot more than 5 sets. I have probably sold 150 sets in the last 6 months.
Back to the great work you guys did. How long did it take you overall?
I also stop for cups of tea so we are talking "apples for apples" here.
Well done and thanks for posting the info.
Roger
I am glad everything worked out well and thank you for your business.
For the record the MMs are not Anchor, they are made by another manufacturer to the same specs.
They have a seperate part number for solid and hydraulic.
I have installed a lot more than 5 sets. I have probably sold 150 sets in the last 6 months.
Back to the great work you guys did. How long did it take you overall?
I also stop for cups of tea so we are talking "apples for apples" here.
Well done and thanks for posting the info.
Roger
02-10-2007, 08:17 PM
#14
Nordschleife Master
Mustang pressurizes the radiator, but not the overflow. The pressure cap must be on the radiator, and that is where you test from. Heater core is a common place to find a leak.
02-10-2007, 08:17 PM
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Originally Posted by ROG100
Hi Matt & Joel,
I am glad everything worked out well and thank you for your business.
For the record the MMs are not Anchor, they are made by another manufacturer to the same specs.
They have a seperate part number for solid and hydraulic.
I have installed a lot more than 5 sets. I have probably sold 150 sets in the last 6 months.
Back to the great work you guys did. How long did it take you overall?
I also stop for cups of tea so we are talking "apples for apples" here.
Well done and thanks for posting the info.
Roger
I am glad everything worked out well and thank you for your business.
For the record the MMs are not Anchor, they are made by another manufacturer to the same specs.
They have a seperate part number for solid and hydraulic.
I have installed a lot more than 5 sets. I have probably sold 150 sets in the last 6 months.
Back to the great work you guys did. How long did it take you overall?
I also stop for cups of tea so we are talking "apples for apples" here.
Well done and thanks for posting the info.
Roger
Anchor or NOT , they seem to work well in Joel's 928 S2
... and U've saved us LOTS of $$$ over the OPC mounts ... No doubt, we're V. HAPPY ... The NEW sump gasket looks & feels a 100 times better then the OPC version too, yet costs the same. It took us 2 and a half days of leisurely 4-5 hours per day ... there was NO major rush as the 928 was safely locked inside LARGE Barn, out of COLD weather and alternative transportation was available... PERSISTENCE is the name of this game ... and I don't give up easily
More of the same for me tomorrow...
When U get a chance prices & pix of the X pipe would be of great interest to me. THANX in advance.
Matt... '87 S4 Manual/LSD