Suspension Parts to replace 96K
#1
Race Car
Thread Starter
![Default](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
I have all 4 factory shocks new in the box including the rubber stops. If I'm going to tear this apart and also the motor mounts at the same time what else is recommended. The bushings look fine, I drive very little and don't race it, but what other rubber parts should be replaced. Sometimes a lot of work for very little benefit is what I am worried about. I am waiting to return from Sebring before I start and I want to have this car as new feeling as possible.
![ducking](https://rennlist.com/forums/graemlins/icon107.gif)
#2
Team Owner
![Default](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
you will probably find that all of the rubber suspension parts are in good condition unless for example the lower control arms are soaked from atf fluid leaks or oil leaking on them. Otherwise it is a plug and play deal. Make sure you make a note of how the rear spacers go when removing the long lower shock mount bolts, remove the nut from the front of the bolts the. also roll the bolt on a smooth surface to see if it is bent, if its bent you should replace it, a used one will work, and of course it would be a good time to do the MMounts and pan reseal, and any other leaking system most likely is the power steering resivour lines and the rack boots and tierod ends both inner and outer, Goodluck, Stan
Ahh almost forgot take readings before you jack up the car to see what your old ride height is so you can readjust the new shocks to the old settings and dont forget to get a good 4 wheel alignment after driving the car for 25 to 30 miles or so
Ahh almost forgot take readings before you jack up the car to see what your old ride height is so you can readjust the new shocks to the old settings and dont forget to get a good 4 wheel alignment after driving the car for 25 to 30 miles or so
#3
Rennlist Member
![Default](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
How tierd are the springs? If it wasn't so much work I'd like to try my OEM springs with the Bilstein shocks.
IMHO the Eibachs are a little stiff for general street use and I do drive hard.
IMHO the Eibachs are a little stiff for general street use and I do drive hard.
#4
Nordschleife Master
![Default](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
You should get the lock nuts used on the bottom of the front and rear shocks. I ordered some, i assume they are nylock nuts and those are typically a one time use nut. They are like $0.75 each
Trending Topics
#8
Race Car
Thread Starter
![Default](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
One boot is torn ready to go in, oil pan gasket but I'm not sure if I'll do now it really requires a motor lift. Has new Tie rods I just hate to start and end up waiting for a cheap part I cannot get locally.