Brett928S2

Hi

Well I speak to Adrian a lot..and he DOES have clutch problems...hopefully the latest hes fitted will cure the problem....but I was asking about American clutches...on blown 928s....dont I remember reading here that several 928 in the US had clutch problems ??

I am lucky I suppose that mine is an autobox and seems to handle the power better...although I will uprate my tranny fluid to synthetic this month as a precaution...

All the best Brett

mark kibort

im sure the 928 clutch can handle more than most people can dish out. if you are drag racing, it can be a different story (launch causes havoc on clutches of all types) but once a clutch is disengaged the pressure plate can keep the 400 to 500ftlbs of torque transfer under control.

I think clutches are the same as NOS. you have to know how to use them.

heck, i still know DE guys that are boiling their brake fluid at the track, running 10s second slower than the race guys

Mk

hacker-pschorr

I’m still amazed how many DE cars I find with brake issue due to the rotors being on backwards.

mark kibort

forget the rotors, now about the pads! check this out.

RicerSchnitzzle

99% of nitrous "Explosions" are from poor design of nozzle location. When a dry intake manifold is turned "wet" by a nitrous/fuel mixture, some fuel can condense on the intake internals and runners. A small amount is no big deal, however injecting at a low point or worse yet at a turn around can cause large amounts of pooling. Then with the lack of fuel (now lost to the pooling) the cylinders run lean. A backfire now runs back into the intake and ignites the pool of fuel. Intakes are not cylinders and tend to not like the experience...BOOM!!

So is that the fault of nitrous or the idiot that bought it off the shelf and figured it was a DIY project he could do in an hour with a case of Rolling Rock?

Small HP (<150hp) gains into the front of the 928 intake with a good nozzle (Like WON) will work fine. Larger amounts risk pooling and should be done with direct injection instead. That means taping all the runners. Unfortunatley direct injection also has limitations, as the injection at that point will slow down the air speed, and also not allow the nitrous to expand as much, negating some of the cooling effect. It does however allow for a very even mixture of fule and nitrous to each cylinder.

As mark stated above, N2O has many advantages, including the cooling effect and the dampening factor of the free nitrogen. Used with a progrsessive controller Nitrous can make more low end torque with a softer hit then any turbo or S/C. It can continue the HP gains up into higher RPMs.

2 cars with the same peak HP (350hp), one Nitrous, one S/C will have the same top speed (Until the nitrous runs out ), however the Nitrous car will accelerate faster with the stronger, flatter torque curve.

When done correctly and in moderation Nitrous is safer and gentler on your engine, yet yields better results. Only down sides of Nitrous I see are the cost of long term refilling, and the switch to arm proccess. Then again the switch to arm process makes the car very managable under normal driving, or durring inclimate weather.

To the nay sayers...busting on Brett for ONLY attaining 379RWHP??? For $1000 my Euro can hit 379RWHP?? That's a huge win in my book. A 200HP hit instead of 150 would break the 400WRHP barrier! And yet still accelerate faster than a S/C'd 400RWHP car because of the low RPM torque boost.

Back to the original questions.
1. Yes it would work fine, though you may want to go with a better quality kit that features a better noxzzle. (NX or ZEX, WON if you can find it.) Also kit is advertized up to 175HP. Anything over 100HP will need a progressive controller to avoid wheel spin ans extra stress on the internals from the hard hit. Finally above 100HP with 3AN or 4An braided hoses, you'll want a purge kit to remove N2O that has turned into gas in the resevior the large diameter hose creates. Without a purge kit you could experience nitrous lag, resulting in a very soft "Turbo" like hit.


2. NO, NO, NO!! That is the worst place to put it as the air flow goes down then back up into the plennum and then down again intot he runners. Big time opportunity for pooling and a big BANG!
Tap into the front of the plennum body. If you have a 5 speed, the fitting for the auto vacuum can be removed and the nozzle will fit with an adaptor. No taping. Car remains stock when kit is removed.

heinrich

yep

heinrich

I think that was the point. We've been around this board, we know where it will lead, Whitefox is unlikely to get the expert help he needs to do it right

RicerSchnitzzle

Sad but true...

Also nitrous is addicting and most people don't know when to stop. They keep rejetting untill something breaks.

heinrich

Mark I've seen Porsche racing trainers do the heel-toe string, but aren't you going a little over the top to force yourself to carry more speed into the corners?

S4-on-your-back-door

Terra post some pics of your setup

Brett928S2

Hi All

Just to let you know....the rest of the parts for my 200 mph runs and 10 second quarters (i hope) are on their way to me....cost around £900 ($1800 ?)

I will post a link to the pictures I will take in next couple of days (on the PCGB 928 section)

These are NOT normal Nitrous parts...this is special stuff.....as a WHOLE Nitrous kit usually costs under $1000...these are add ons for my particular aims

All the best Brett

928S2 AUTO V8 4.7 LTR 1986 IRIS METALLIC BLUE WITH X-PIPES, RMB, PROMAX CHIPS, KICKDOWN SWITCH, K&N,WIZARDS OF NOS - NITROUS KIT 150 HP - 505 BHP / 500 FT LBS TORQUE.
PCGB - 928 - FORUM - MODERATOR.
EMAIL : managingdirector@pchealthcare.co.uk