Chug, chug, chug... stop!
01-27-2007, 08:55 PM
#31
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
Originally Posted by Fogey1
Jim bailey - 928 International Wrote: "The CIS cars the control pressure regulator ( warm up reg) controls the mixture ALL THE TIME. When they fail they can cause exactly what you describe. My wife's 79 decided to fail at a gas station I could barely get it the three blocks to my house as it would not run over an idle ...rebuilt press regulator and all was fine... good chance it is the regulator which acts as the brains of a brainless system adjusting mixture for temp., altitude ,manifold vacume(throttle position)."
Ditto to symptoms and fix just this week on my bro-in-law's 85 Jetta with K-Jet. Sort of a bi-metallic electric choke. Somewhere there's a picture of and thread on how it works, but I couldn't find it for him either.
Ditto to symptoms and fix just this week on my bro-in-law's 85 Jetta with K-Jet. Sort of a bi-metallic electric choke. Somewhere there's a picture of and thread on how it works, but I couldn't find it for him either.
http://www.landsharkoz.com/tt/ttwur.htm
Anyone else rebuild this thing? It looks pretty expensive to replace, so I'd like to find an economical option.
01-28-2007, 03:44 AM
#33
Three Wheelin'
Join Date: Sep 2003
Location: SF Bay Area
Posts: 1,526
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Oh, be careful here. Taking it apart in cleaning it is only to be done once you isolate the problem as being the WUR. So far he has not eliminated other things. The WUR is an expensive part with some delicate parts inside.
If the car was running fine then what is going to screw up the WUR. I am not saying it is impossible, but I would check everything else first - including slapping on a gauge and getting some fuel pressure reading. Even before that I would eliminate mechanical and ignition things.
Dan The Pod Guy
If the car was running fine then what is going to screw up the WUR. I am not saying it is impossible, but I would check everything else first - including slapping on a gauge and getting some fuel pressure reading. Even before that I would eliminate mechanical and ignition things.
Dan The Pod Guy
01-28-2007, 09:48 AM
#34
Addict
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
Sean,
Yup, still chasing my tail on this one. Zimms says "They no longer work on 928s since Wayne left." I had an interesting conversation with the owner out there. Seems that I'm not the only one who's had a bad experience with him.
I would definately recommend staying away from that place if you own a 928!!!
I then took the car over to 5th gear right before the first Ice storm we had.
Once I left the car there, set my ride up, etc., he said he could not get to it that week. So back I went to drive it home and it now sits in the garage again.
I'll keep you up to date on the ongoing saga.
Yup, still chasing my tail on this one. Zimms says "They no longer work on 928s since Wayne left." I had an interesting conversation with the owner out there. Seems that I'm not the only one who's had a bad experience with him.
I would definately recommend staying away from that place if you own a 928!!!
I then took the car over to 5th gear right before the first Ice storm we had.
Once I left the car there, set my ride up, etc., he said he could not get to it that week. So back I went to drive it home and it now sits in the garage again.
I'll keep you up to date on the ongoing saga.
01-28-2007, 09:54 AM
#35
Addict
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
Scott,
Thanks for the heads up. I did replace the Cold Start Valve a while ago, so it's not that old. Call me stupid on the CIS, but where and what is the "Thermal Time Switch"? I'll try unplugging the cold start and check this out. Also have been told it may be the ignition switch, as the car runs good again after it is turned off, then on again. If it's not these 2, I'm heading down to the relay box and follow Sharkskin Dave's procedure.
Thanks for the heads up. I did replace the Cold Start Valve a while ago, so it's not that old. Call me stupid on the CIS, but where and what is the "Thermal Time Switch"? I'll try unplugging the cold start and check this out. Also have been told it may be the ignition switch, as the car runs good again after it is turned off, then on again. If it's not these 2, I'm heading down to the relay box and follow Sharkskin Dave's procedure.
01-28-2007, 10:44 AM
#36
Burning Brakes
Chuck,
The thermal time switch is mounted into the front of the thermostat housing. Its kinda hidden by the hoses.
The thermal time switch and the cold start injector are both wired to the ignition. The time switch is the brains of the operation and tells the cold start injector when to fire or not to fire by completeing and breaking the circuit. Its plausible that a bad switch is sending mixed signals, or a short is completeing the circuit. Be sure to let your shark warm a bit before unplugging the cold start valve to test.
The thermal time switch is mounted into the front of the thermostat housing. Its kinda hidden by the hoses.
The thermal time switch and the cold start injector are both wired to the ignition. The time switch is the brains of the operation and tells the cold start injector when to fire or not to fire by completeing and breaking the circuit. Its plausible that a bad switch is sending mixed signals, or a short is completeing the circuit. Be sure to let your shark warm a bit before unplugging the cold start valve to test.
01-28-2007, 11:03 AM
#37
Addict
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
Scott,
Roger that, I'll give that a shot as well. I'm assuming by looking at it that if I do replace, I'll need to drain a good bit of coolant as it's right there in the thermostat housing.
Planning on replacing the ign. switch first, as I have a new one laying around.
Funny, The thread on 32v vs 16v keeps coming to mind. Something like "the gremlins are relatively cheap on an OB to fix, they just take you a $H%Tload of time to find". I know I butchered that quote but I seem to be living this one.
Roger that, I'll give that a shot as well. I'm assuming by looking at it that if I do replace, I'll need to drain a good bit of coolant as it's right there in the thermostat housing.
Planning on replacing the ign. switch first, as I have a new one laying around.
Funny, The thread on 32v vs 16v keeps coming to mind. Something like "the gremlins are relatively cheap on an OB to fix, they just take you a $H%Tload of time to find". I know I butchered that quote but I seem to be living this one.
01-29-2007, 06:53 PM
#40
Addict
Rennlist Member
Rennlist
Site Sponsor
Rennlist Member
Rennlist
Site Sponsor
Chuck before you remove the pod to install a new ignition electric switch raise the steering column up and just unplug the harness from the back of the switch and pull it down between the pod and dash then you can plug in the new switch and test how the car runs ...use a screwdriver to turn the switch.
03-24-2007, 01:40 PM
#42
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
Thanks everyone for all your help! She's back (for now, at least).
What I did: disassed, cleaned and assed the fuel pressure regulator (warm-up valve), broke a bunch of old hoses in the process, replaced them, replaced the battery and she started right up --now I'm gonna go drive her!
Yesss!
-T
What I did: disassed, cleaned and assed the fuel pressure regulator (warm-up valve), broke a bunch of old hoses in the process, replaced them, replaced the battery and she started right up --now I'm gonna go drive her!
Yesss!
-T
