Use flare wrenches on the fittings, or you'll be sorry. If you do use a crowfoot, only use the flare nut version. The heater hose is in the way, as is the wiper motor -- first get that stuff out of the way....



Then use the flare wrenches combined with a large crescent or end wrench on the expansion valve body to counter-hold it. You should never twist a wrench on these fittings; what you do is get the large counter-holding wrench and the flare wrench close together so that holding them both in one hand and squeezing(like pliers) will loosen the fitting. Takes some fiddling but will save you from twisting a line. Assembly, as they say, is the reverse of disassembly.

 

Dave, excellent description of wrench use.
Tampa, don't mix metric/sae bolts on this car, you will thank yourself later; it's bad enough when I find a mixture of flat vs. philips screws on hose clamps. I would also recommend a Timesert to repair the stripped threads for two reasons: 1) much more reliable 2) the nature of this application. It's not of the catastrophic nature like a water pump bolt, but do you really want to chance it backing out and leaving you stranded?

3) it is in a "repeated use" location. The slave will have to come out again for the next TB change, and that will necessitate another coil and even less reliability. AND the flywheel lock I have is temperamental. It has to be placed just so or it slips when removing the crank bolt; a helicoil could be problematic for this. A Timesert is waay more expensive (IIRC $40 for the kit) but is a permanent replacement.