andyturner

Has anyone ever re sprayed a 928? I intend to paint my white S2 but I need some help choosing materials.
I know I need a plastic primer for the bumpers etc. and probably a plasticiser for the paint on the bumpers to make it flexible. I shouldn't really use 2 pack at home for health and safety reasons which leaves me with cellulose. I don't know if I can make cellulose flexible. I know there are plasticisers for 2 pack.
I would appreciate any help, particularly from anyone who has re spayed a 928 especially with cellulose.

Thanks

Andy

perrys4

gosane would have all the info you need. PM him.

JHowell37

Cellulose (lacquer) is crap because even after it's fully "cured" you can wipe it off with a paper towel dampened with virtually any type of mild solvent. You'll likely find it rather difficult to find anyone who has resprayed one of these things with lacquer because they were all made during a time when almost every car produced had transitioned to 2-pack paints. Going to lacquer is a step backwards for a 928. There are health risks involved in using 2-pack paints. However if you are only planning to do this one job then the risks are negligible, and a quality respirator should deal with most of that risk. I don't know what the rules on VOCs are in Europe these days, but many places in the US prohibit the use of paints with high solvent content. You're biggest risk using a 2 pack paint will be upsetting your neighbors from the fumes. One other consideration is the suicide inducing weather patterns in your country. 2 pack paint will hold up much better. I'll be painting mine this coming spring. PM me and I'll tell you about some of what I've learned.

ceedee

howell...looking at your avatar and reading your post the same time makes me smile....thinking were talking paint here... just so ironic ...nothing personal

JHowell37

As I said, it's in progress.

ceedee

i know ...just rubbing it in...every 928 is a work in progress

heinrich

the best way to repaint a 928 is not.

S4-on-your-back-door

i had mine painted and they used dupont paint seems to be ok although i havent washed it yet

Herman K

Put some food coloring and wash it and put it on youtube!

Podguy

There are some considerations on painting a 928 due to the different materials on the car. These days it is popular to use the catyalized paints. They are good but difficult to work with. I do like the Dupont line - they flow nicely and seem to hold up well. The biggest problem is drying time. If you are shooting the entire car at once there is no way to get a decent job without a bunch of dust and dirt and maybe even a few bugs getting into the wet paint. Once a panel is messed up or scratched the the entire panel has to be redone. If you have a solid color you can use a single stage paint. If the color is metalic then it will have to be clear coated. The clear coat offers UV protection.

Preparation is the key to a good job. Most of the car should come apart. The front and rear bumpers will have to be stripped. You can use a chemical stripper or send them off to a place like American Stripping in Sacramento who uses walnut shells to remove the paint. They do a great job, but there are probably places closer to home. If you do not strip the old paint then the new paint will crack or even peel.

If the clear coat is starting to go then you will have to strip the paint. Sanding will only make the old clear coat thinner and brittle. It may look like you have a good surface, but once the new paint is put on the old clear coat will continue to separate causing bubbles to appear in the new paint job. Eventually the bubbles crack and the paint begins to peel.

Again a chemical stripper is used. The steel in the car is galvanised (I was told this started in the 1980s but I thought galvanizing was on all models) If you sand too hard to remove the paint you will take the galvanizing along with the sanding. There are good primer sealers that will make up for the loss of the galvanizing, but if you can avoid it that is best. To strip the paint from the car it is best to disassemble the car. The 928 lends itself to panel painting and this is an advantage for the home hobbiest, but if you are using metalics then you have to be very careful to blend the paint correctly or the car will come out like a patch work quilt.

The paints these days are very expensive. Figure materials to run north of $500, and depending on color - more. I paid over $100 for a quart of the base coat for a burgundy car, but bought a quart of Guards Red for half of that. Each stage requires additives and before you get done you will have a degree in Chemistry.

There is a place in San Diego "The Restoration Shop" that sells paints for a reasonable price. They have a couple of versions of epoxy primer that will provide a good base for your job. On the bumpers I use SEM plastic primer. It is flexible, is a high build and is very easy to work with. After the base coat be sure to add a flex agent to final coat or clear coat.

To spray the new paints you will need a HVLP gun, preferably a gravity gun. I found a small detail gun at Harbor Frieght that is excellent for panel painting. If is not big enough for shooting a whole car, but it is great for the up close and personal work. I think it was under $40. Thier bigger guns are crap. To get a good big gun you will need to spend a couple of hundred.

After you get done if you want a very nice job you will have to color sand the clear coat. The formula is 3 coats of base paint and five coats of clear. Be careful of runs as the clear coat really takes off. The clear is done while the base is still new to get the best adheasion.

When doing the aluminum panels be sure to use an aluminum conditioner on any bare aluminum. Aluminum is more difficult to work than steel for dents. You can chase the dent for a while. Best just to drive it low and use a little bit more filler.

Finally nitro Cellulous laquer has been obsolete for 40 years. It was replaced with acrylic Lacquer. Acrylic Lacuer is by far the best choice to get a quality job. It is also something the home hobbiest can deal with and get professional results. Unlike enanel, lacquer can be touched up. Since it drys fast there are fewer chances of getting a run. When getting a run just sand it out and respray. Lacquer can be built up in stages and mixed with a percentage of clear to get an unparalleled depth. It rubs out easier than the catylized paints and gives a deep deep luster.

Unfortunately it is illegal to shoot lacquer in many locations. The argument is that is pollutes more than the new two stage system. However, the new paints contain some pretty toxic stuff, so I am less than convinced that there is a benefit. Spraying the two strage stuff requires a head to foot shoot suit and an external supply of air. I tried it with a respirator and do not recommend it for non smokers.

An acrylic lacquer job will hold up easily as well as the new two stage paints and will look better each time you wax it. The enamel job looks it best the day it comes out of the paint booth and goes down hill from there.

If you have any specific questions contact me by e-mail and I will be glad to help.

aguk928

Hi,

Very interested in what you come up with, I am Manchester based and am also thinking its time to repaint my Shark. Someone in its life put a real sh*t paint job over the original without properly preparing it. Yes badly painted bumpers the paint just cracks and peals of. Grrr. Big job though. I am trying to cost out a professional to do the job may be just the final painting rather than myself.
I am thinking may be the way to go is to do all the work upto the primer and let someone do the metalic colour and clear coats.

Are you planning on taking the car back to metal?

Any feedback would also be of great interest.

danglerb

There have been some good recent threads on prep and paint.
https://rennlist.com/forums/search.php?searchid=1372938

John V

I resprayed my 928 with acrylic lacquer at home. I'm not a professional painter but I've shot over 2 dozen cars complete and even more partials over the years. The 928 was by far, the hardest. Mine was part of a multi year quasi restoration and everything including doors, glass, trim, bumpers etc was taken off. This is a huge task on the 928 and should not be under estimated. I would guess that paying to have this type of paint job done professionally would cost more than the cars value.

Materials- I agree with podguy. IF you can get acylic lacquer where you are, it's the easiest and perhaps only paint system where you can get great results without a top of the line paint booth. It's also very easy to shoot with the least potential for contamination and/or paint formulation problems. Keep in mind that it's also the most work since wet sanding and polishing are required to get great results. Once wet sanded and polished, I feel the finish is unrivaled over time by even the best 2 part paints (un wetsanded and buffed). On top of being outlawed and difficult to get in most places, there some additional drawbacks to going lacquer. Lacquers are the most aggressive solvents of all paints. This means that it's incompatible with most weaker solvent substrates. Some fully catalized 2 part paint systems will hold up under lacquer when properly prepped and sealed but it's very common to have sporatic substrate failure under lacquer systems.

2 part paint sytems - With all due respect, I disagree that your neighbors are the biggest risk when spraying these systems. These systems are the norm these days not becuase of environmental concerns (although thats part of it), they are popular because they make paint shops more productive and higher profits. With a good down draft paint booth, and a skilled painter, you can shoot a base/clear system that will be look like a buffed lacquer job with about 1/10 of the labor. Once catalized, the surface is much tougher and more durable than lacquers. They achieve this by adding a hardener that is isocyanide based. Unlike acrylic lacquer, these cyanide based hardeners are NOT FILTERED out by any canister based respirator, or at least they weren't the last time I looked . YOU MUST WEAR A SUPPLIED AIR SYSTEM to protect yourself from these organic compounds while spraying. I have sprayed these systems and I know of guys that still do with just a repirator (even a couple that use no respirator). Reactions are not guaranteed but I've had one episode and let me tell you, one is all it took- I'll never spray the stuff again wihtout a supplied air system. The effects are also beleived to be cumulative, meaning that once these organic compounds are absorbed into your body, they don't go away and build up with prolonged exposure. Not a good thing.

I hope this helps you.

88 Shark

I have had great luck with the PPG (DBU) line of 2 stage paints. With the 7200 clear. I Have been in the body buisiness for over 20 years and saw the tail end of the "lacquer era" new paints now days blow Lacquer away. The clear is hard as nails, and easy to sand and buff. As stated before there is much more to painting a car (any car) than just the paint, prep is where you will spend most of your time. Good luck.

mcholdfast

I will say that the shop manager at the place that did the bodywork and paint on my GT would agree with you. He made numerous comments along the way about how the 928 was put together and how difficult disassembly and assembly were compared to cars he typically worked on. For instance, he mentioned that the disassembly of the doors required to fill the trim holes took over 3 times as long as he had estimated. He honored his quote but said he lost money due to all of the shop time required. I bought my second 928 while they were still working on the GT. As soon as he saw it he said "You don't want anything done on that one, do you?"