Re spraying a 928
#31
Team Owner
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Hey Greg, What kind of stapler do these staples fit??
I have an Arrow JT21
I have an Arrow JT21
#32
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Good question, I borrowed the stapler, I will have to look to see if I have the box still, I will get back to you as soon as I can on that one. If I forget just remind me.
Greg
Greg
#33
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I believe the new style bumper beading for the S4's has an adhesive already applied to it and does not require the use of staples; someone please correct me if I'm wrong here....I'm wondering if it can be utilized on the earlier cars? I'm going to have my shark resprayed this spring so it might be good information to have on hand...
#34
Team Owner
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I removed a 95 GTS rear bumper and it had staples
#35
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Good thread.
Fastcap 3rd Hand Contractor Poles
http://www.amazon.com/Fastcap-3HANDC...6430256&sr=8-1
If you're "making your own" paint booth, these could come in handy. I can personally attest they cut the cursing associated with installing fluorescent ceiling fixtures WAY down. ;-)
Fastcap 3rd Hand Contractor Poles
http://www.amazon.com/Fastcap-3HANDC...6430256&sr=8-1
If you're "making your own" paint booth, these could come in handy. I can personally attest they cut the cursing associated with installing fluorescent ceiling fixtures WAY down. ;-)
#36
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I believe the new style bumper beading for the S4's has an adhesive already applied to it and does not require the use of staples; someone please correct me if I'm wrong here....I'm wondering if it can be utilized on the earlier cars? I'm going to have my shark resprayed this spring so it might be good information to have on hand...
Do not let anybody talk you into not using staples, I did and I knew better, but hey, he was the body guy.
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#37
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I have the ones with the adhesive strip on them from Roger. He sent them to me for Paul Champagnes car. They will not let go if the prep is done thoroughly. Mine have been on since may and they are still right where I put them.
#39
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The new ones with the adhesive is really good for the body shops, no staples to deal with and it will get it our of the warranty period ok, I am going too have to remove my bumper and put staples in them at the rear after just 3 months on the road.
Do not let anybody talk you into not using staples, I did and I knew better, but hey, he was the body guy.![grr](https://rennlist.com/forums/graemlins/cussing.gif)
Do not let anybody talk you into not using staples, I did and I knew better, but hey, he was the body guy.
![grr](https://rennlist.com/forums/graemlins/cussing.gif)
Staples it is.
-Mark
#40
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I've done a number of Merkur XR4's and they have a "grill" that has a rubber gasket (and a few other rubber gaskets about the bumpers). These cars have adhesive and in cases where I replaced the glue I used 3M tape - the strongest, some is for light trim. These cars have seen years of Wisconsin winters, parked outside in a few cases and often caked with salt and snow - the 3M stuff holds, as does the factory glue.
#41
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Hi Andy,
I am a new 928S member on the forum. I never painted a 928. But, I painted my black 86 Corvette. I built my own spray booth out of PVC pipe and visqueen. The Corvette is fiberglass and also has the urethane bumpers. I disassembled the whole car. Sanded the car down to the black primer before the gelcoat. Fixed a few cracks. I also had to fix a few holes in my urethane bumpers. I used a two part epoxy product from 3M. Its an epoxy that turns into urethane in 15 minutes. You can sand it smooth and its very strong. Easy to work with too.
Most of the job will be sanding and blocking. Painting is the easy part. I used ever coat Slick sand 2K primer. It has good building properties. I went with a base coat clear coat system. You can wet sand scratches and orange peel out of it pretty good. You can go with single stage enamel but put alot of paint on the car, so you can wet sand it smooth. For the paint I used PPG omni base and PPG DCU 2021 high solids clear. High solids clear is hard to lay on smooth, but you only shoot two coats. Each coat yields a 3-3.5 mil thick of clear. You can also go with a conventional clear, but you will need to shoot more coats because its thinner. Four or five coats. Also. if you remove the bumpers and paint them, you better add flex agent to the clear. If not, the clear may crack when you install the bumpers. Flex agent is not necessary if the bumpers are not removed from the car.
I just want to say that I am not expert painter. This is the first car I have ever painted. I read, talked to people and learned. The reward will be wet sanding the car. This is where you will get that smooth glass reflection. If you want to see pictures follow the link. Just look up Frankenstein or Frankies restoration. If you need any assistance feel free to email me. It takes a lot of ***** to paint your own car. But if you really want to accomplish this, you can do it. If I cant post the links, just look on the Florida Corvette forum, and C4 guru dot com. Good Luck.
Joe Flash Man
http://www.corvetteflorida.com/forum...ad.php?t=16014
http://www.corvette-guru.com/modules...=4558&forum=29
I am a new 928S member on the forum. I never painted a 928. But, I painted my black 86 Corvette. I built my own spray booth out of PVC pipe and visqueen. The Corvette is fiberglass and also has the urethane bumpers. I disassembled the whole car. Sanded the car down to the black primer before the gelcoat. Fixed a few cracks. I also had to fix a few holes in my urethane bumpers. I used a two part epoxy product from 3M. Its an epoxy that turns into urethane in 15 minutes. You can sand it smooth and its very strong. Easy to work with too.
Most of the job will be sanding and blocking. Painting is the easy part. I used ever coat Slick sand 2K primer. It has good building properties. I went with a base coat clear coat system. You can wet sand scratches and orange peel out of it pretty good. You can go with single stage enamel but put alot of paint on the car, so you can wet sand it smooth. For the paint I used PPG omni base and PPG DCU 2021 high solids clear. High solids clear is hard to lay on smooth, but you only shoot two coats. Each coat yields a 3-3.5 mil thick of clear. You can also go with a conventional clear, but you will need to shoot more coats because its thinner. Four or five coats. Also. if you remove the bumpers and paint them, you better add flex agent to the clear. If not, the clear may crack when you install the bumpers. Flex agent is not necessary if the bumpers are not removed from the car.
I just want to say that I am not expert painter. This is the first car I have ever painted. I read, talked to people and learned. The reward will be wet sanding the car. This is where you will get that smooth glass reflection. If you want to see pictures follow the link. Just look up Frankenstein or Frankies restoration. If you need any assistance feel free to email me. It takes a lot of ***** to paint your own car. But if you really want to accomplish this, you can do it. If I cant post the links, just look on the Florida Corvette forum, and C4 guru dot com. Good Luck.
Joe Flash Man
http://www.corvetteflorida.com/forum...ad.php?t=16014
http://www.corvette-guru.com/modules...=4558&forum=29
Last edited by flash porsche; 10-28-2009 at 12:08 AM.
#43
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Joe,
I do not think you will have any problem painting a 928. I generally strip to bare metal then use a DTM primer sealer as the base coat. After that you can use a 2K. There is a lot of blocking to do.
On the bumpers I use a SEM plastic primer to get the surface smooth. It is also a good idea to add some reinforcement under the tops of the front bumpers as it transitions to the hood area to get a smooth line. Other than working aluminum a little differently the rest is pretty straight forward.
I would strongly recommend as much disassembly as possible. Here is a link to some paint notes I wrote up a while back.
http://www.kondratyev.com/porsche/te.../body_work.htm
Recommended browser is IE.
Good Luck
I do not think you will have any problem painting a 928. I generally strip to bare metal then use a DTM primer sealer as the base coat. After that you can use a 2K. There is a lot of blocking to do.
On the bumpers I use a SEM plastic primer to get the surface smooth. It is also a good idea to add some reinforcement under the tops of the front bumpers as it transitions to the hood area to get a smooth line. Other than working aluminum a little differently the rest is pretty straight forward.
I would strongly recommend as much disassembly as possible. Here is a link to some paint notes I wrote up a while back.
http://www.kondratyev.com/porsche/te.../body_work.htm
Recommended browser is IE.
Good Luck