removing wheel anodizing
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Joined: Oct 2006
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From: Porterville, Ca.
removing wheel anodizing
I have a set of 8" dish rims and I want to emove the anodize from them. I have been told that I can use sand paper (corse/fine) and polish. I am hoping to end up with polished rims at the end. Has anyone done this? Anyone have recomendations? All help is appreciated.
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Joined: Sep 2005
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I removed the anodizing with a very strong acid. It work very well. BUT I WOULD NEVER DO THAT METHOD AGAIN!! Even outside the fumes would take your breathe away. The acid splashed on my neck. It swelled up to the size of a cherry .
I would work with a scotch bright or 1500 sand paper first before using the acid method.
I would work with a scotch bright or 1500 sand paper first before using the acid method.
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From: Buckeye, AZ
Originally Posted by classic_cars
I read somewhere that oven cleaner works. Never tried it though so be careful ...
Three Wheelin'
Joined: Sep 2006
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From: Arvada, CO
Originally Posted by classic_cars
I read somewhere that oven cleaner works. Never tried it though so be careful ...
What works is lye. Red Devil (the drain cleaner) was pure lye, but they stopped making it. An Ace Hardware should have lye, though. Depending on how agressive you want to be, create a 2-5% by weight mix of clean water and lye in a bath large enough for the wheel. Let the wheel sit in it and check every five minutes. Do not let it go too long or the lye could start eating the underlying metal.
The anodized layer will turn a powdery white when it is coming off. Remove the wheel and polish about three to four times with something like Mother's aluminum polish (my preferred choice). Each time, you will see more reflection and eventually you will get a mirror shine.
To paint, you first need to degrease because the polish leaves a protective coating. So, use Purple Power/Simple Green/Brand X and a clean sponge to clean the wheel. Then towel it down with a lint-free cloth before painting with Por-15 Glisten PC or Eastwood Diamond Clear. Make sure you use a clear that adheres directly to metal.
The other anternative is to wet sand the anodized layer off: start with 400 grit to get the anodizing off. Then 800 to remove the 400 scratches, 1200 to remove the 800 and then 2000 to remove the 1200. Then polish three to four times, clean with degreaser and paint.
Both of these methods have worked for me, but the lye is way quicker and less destructive.
Matt
Three Wheelin'
Joined: Sep 2006
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From: Arvada, CO
Also, Caswell Plating sells an aluminum anodize stripper that is supposed to be safe on the underlying metal.
Matt
Matt
Instructor
Joined: Aug 2006
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From: New Berlin, WI
First I talked to an old friend who did his 900 Honda wheels and brake carriers and such. He is a nut for perfect work and found an anodizing place in Milwaukee WI. His bike stuff looked fabulous. They stipped his old anodize in a matter of minutes, he took the stuff home and polished it, then he brought it back for anodizing. I, of course, didn't follow his rec. and tried to find a place that hard anodized as I planed on black and salt driving. The place I picked did a fine job of stripping, I took the wheels home and ground and polished the small curb damage and took them back for clear anodize. They "did me a favor" and kept them extra long in the tank (they said) and they are kind of purple. I half think they tried a half assed hard anodize as some sort of Frankenstein experiment. I'm not really too upset as the car is black and all 4 match.
Here's the deal, any large industrial town will have anodizing places - some will deal with an individual. Check with hot rodders or bike guys who have had good luck and go with their advice.
The place I used did hundreds of thousands of parts for Sears. The guy said hard anodize is not UV (ultraviolet) stable and is greenish unless strongly dyed. If dyed black it turns purple eventually. His statements - I don't have experience in this, but it was a pretty big operation.
My wheels are just like factory in that they still stain, except now they're kind of purple!
Here's the deal, any large industrial town will have anodizing places - some will deal with an individual. Check with hot rodders or bike guys who have had good luck and go with their advice.
The place I used did hundreds of thousands of parts for Sears. The guy said hard anodize is not UV (ultraviolet) stable and is greenish unless strongly dyed. If dyed black it turns purple eventually. His statements - I don't have experience in this, but it was a pretty big operation.
My wheels are just like factory in that they still stain, except now they're kind of purple!
