Flywheel Bolt Circle info for 5.0L
#1
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I'm looking for the bolt circle diameter for the six bolts that hold the flywheel to the crank. I am getting ready to replace my rear main seal and am fabricating a tool to press in the new seal. It doesn't need it to be perfect, just close. If anybody has a stock 5.0L crank laying around that they could lay a tape or some calipers on, I would appreciate it. I'm trying to make the tool before I start tearing into the car to save me some time. Car is at paint shop right now.
Thanks,
Thanks,
#3
Under the Lift
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If the TT is removed, you just need a piece of PVC pipe that matches the seal diameter - order the seal and measure it - to use as a seal driver.
Are you planning on doing the rear main seal with the TT still on the car? I did this in my 89. It's a trick. I somehow got the seal in with no special tool other than a hammer and the old seal as a buffer. It did not want to go in easily and would **** to one side and pop out until I finally got it started evenly on all sides. I proposed using a simple tool of two metal straps with holes for the flywheel bolts. Is that what you have in mind? Or you could fabricate a wood ring that would cover the seal and have holes for some of the bolts.
My write up...
http://www.billsworkshop.com/P928S4/seal/seal.htm
Are you planning on doing the rear main seal with the TT still on the car? I did this in my 89. It's a trick. I somehow got the seal in with no special tool other than a hammer and the old seal as a buffer. It did not want to go in easily and would **** to one side and pop out until I finally got it started evenly on all sides. I proposed using a simple tool of two metal straps with holes for the flywheel bolts. Is that what you have in mind? Or you could fabricate a wood ring that would cover the seal and have holes for some of the bolts.
My write up...
http://www.billsworkshop.com/P928S4/seal/seal.htm
#4
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9 bolts. Right. Thank you for that dimension.
Bill,
I plan on using your guide. I do plan on not dropping the suspension (again) and sliding the TT/Trans back out of my way. I am already assembling the tools I will need that I don't currently have (like the 12 point triple square). I have the seal already, and plan on making a cool peice to press in the seal. I will take a pic and post when I get done. It's similar to what you describe in your attached thread. Nothing fancy, but it should do the trick. I will also use my old seal as a buffer to prevent damage to the new seal. Thank you bill for working through this already and detailing the install.
Bill,
I plan on using your guide. I do plan on not dropping the suspension (again) and sliding the TT/Trans back out of my way. I am already assembling the tools I will need that I don't currently have (like the 12 point triple square). I have the seal already, and plan on making a cool peice to press in the seal. I will take a pic and post when I get done. It's similar to what you describe in your attached thread. Nothing fancy, but it should do the trick. I will also use my old seal as a buffer to prevent damage to the new seal. Thank you bill for working through this already and detailing the install.
#7
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I must have wasted an hour trying to get that bastard in! Every time you think you finally have it started, one side pops out!
I think I finally used two hammers and it eventually went in. Have fun!
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#8
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Mike, why is it at the paint shop? Doing the rear bumper now or did you have something else in mind?
#9
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Originally Posted by killav
...... I will take a pic and post when I get done. It's similar to what you describe in your attached thread. Nothing fancy, but it should do the trick. I will also use my old seal as a buffer to prevent damage to the new seal....
Glenn
#10
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Not yet. I have recently had some paint issues with my car that I am getting resolved. My car went back into the paint shop for the 3rd time to hopefully get this behind me. I will enjoy driving it for a few weeks and then jump back on the rear main seal project.