SwayBar

That is Carl's front ball-cup replacement.

Strosek Ultra

Right, I do not have all the necessary tooling and I have ordered, one radiused 18mm end mill, a set of M20x1,5mm thread tap and die.
Åke

Chris Lockhart

Ah, ok. Definitely did not know that. With Ake's engineering/fabrication prowess I assumed it was something he whipped up. LOL. Thanks for the clarification.

Carl Fausett

This is a WYAIT thing. Sort of like "WYAIT replace the steering rack mounts when you replace the motor mounts"

We recommend to replace the forward shifter ball cup WYAIT replacing the motor mounts, as in the moments after you have taken the motor mounts out, you can lower the engine making much more room above the TTube between the TTube and the body. Also, remove the air filter box on early cars - you can actually get fairly good access to the shifter ball cup from the top on some cars.

OR

If you drop the TTube for any service, WYAIT replace both the front and the rear shifter ball cups.

Our instructions for installing that part are located here: https://928motorsports.com/installpd...CupInstall.pdf

UKKid35

I can't pop the socket off the ball

I have sprayed it with lube and tried hitting it with a drift, but it won't pop off

Any suggestions gratefully appreciated

UKKid35

Eventually I found a tool I could use to pop the socket off, in conjuration with a hydraulic jack

The hack saw didn't survive the process




The next problem was to remove the old nylon cup

In the end I levered it out with a large screwdriver, making a bit of mess of the metal receiver

Then I had to find a way to press in the new nylon cup, which is a very tight fit

First I tried to use a stubby wrench to undo the lock nut, not a chance





So in the end I used the ratchet strap to pull the link in to a position where I could press in the cup





The only easy part of the job was using the strap to refit the cup on to the ball

The total number of hours I've spent on this so far (I haven't even put the exhaust back) is probably beyond belief

There is definitely very little that I would describe as easy about this job, and what's worse I can't actually feel any difference in the gear lever

Strosek Ultra

Well, I did finish and I have also installed the metal shifter ball cup. The house is made of aluminum and the concave screw of stainless steel (the ball in the picture is for testing only). I must say it was kind of tricky to install the ball cup without lowering the torque tube but after a lot of cursing it was in place. I had to make a couple of special tools in order to tighten the lock nut. When I was there I took the opportunity to manufacture an aluminum short shift lever. Earlier I had fixed the rear shifter coupler with bronze bushings. I am still doing work on the blue car but I had the opportunity to test drive it with the improved shifting mechanism and I am happy with the result, short shift, very distinct, no rattling, no uncomfortable vibrations.
Åke

merchauser

once again, nice work Ake!!

Strosek Ultra

Thanks

slownrusty

Beautiful machining and fabrication!

Strosek Ultra

Thank you very much.

ROG100

Hi Ake,
Nice work as always.
I used to supply the brass bushings for the rear coupler but most of our customers found that they made a "sizzling" noise at the shifter.
We changed to "round hole" poly bushings and the issue went away.
Hope that helps.
Best Roger

Strosek Ultra

Roger, I do not know exactly what you mean bu sizzling noise, not even google can translate it. Anyhow the test drives I have made so far (the car is now taken apart for other work) did not indicate any unusual noise nor vibrations.
Åke

dr bob

Åke --

"sizzling" is the high-frequency buzzing noise that frying bacon makes. Every tiny vibration in the engine or gearbox rattles the shift rod. Your adjustable clamp over the ball lets you eliminate the clearance for rattles and buzzing at the front. For the rear coupling, you could pack the joint with grease and clamp it in a section of rubber hose to eliminate the noises. Oillite bronze bushings (impregnated with lubrication) would work if the gaiter/boot was installed correctly to keep it all clean.

Curious if anybody or why nobody has tried to replace that front joint with a Heim joint (spherical rod end) for this duty.

There's a good reason why Porsche "shifted" to cables and little bellcranks for road car shift management. Noise transmission into the cabin is dramatically reduced, with virtually no reduction is "feel" for the driver.

Hey_Allen

I've been thinking about that as well, and may try my luck at it, since my car needs a new front bushing.
The fun is going to be determining just how best to secure the joint to the torque tube, and if the existing ball mounting point can be reused to mount the Heim joint.

I would need to do some digging to verify just how much rotation that the current shift linkage allows, since Heim joints are limited in their misalignment angle. A quick bit of digging turned up some interesting material, including some manufacturers offering "high misalignment angle" joints, but even the "high" options don't give you a huge amount of added play.