gruffalo

I'm considering replacing the injectors, but how do I remove the injector from the alu sleeve?

MM

hupp

Once the injetor/sleeve assembly is removed from the intake runner, the sleeve can be pushed off the injector. The sleeve is held by the rubber seal -- will probably take a little work to break loose.

One thing to watch when removing the cis injectors -- (depending on how old the injectors are) the alum sleeves get stuck in the runners and the injector my spin inside the sleeve rounding the sleeve "flats".

gruffalo

thanks

JP Rodkey

Depending on how much work you want to make for yourself, you can remove the runner and use a plastic hammer on the injector end that sticks into the head. Once it begins sliding past the rubber seals, it's pretty easy to get the rest of the way out. Then you can get the sleeves out much easier and minimize the chance of damage.

jpitman2

how do you get the sleeves out without an injector engaged in the hex? Only way to grip them then is with vise-grips, and after that they will probably be toast.....Fortunately mine all screwed out ok after a smart smack on the socket bar. Once they are out, the old rubber grommets can still be a bit of work to pry out. I used Vaseline to assist re-assembly.
jp 83 Euro S AT 50k.

jpitman2

My sleeves are alloy, so damaging them is a very bad idea. Deep socket over the injector top (12mm?) worked for me.
jp 83 Euro S AT 50k

SharkSkin

I'm curious as to why you want to replace the injectors -- there's not much that can go wrong with them, if they are plugged they can usually be flushed.

gruffalo

My engine is copmpletely rebuilt, but the guy who did it said that the injectors weren't replaced, and maybe they should.

And I also suspect a leaking injector, since i have issues when trying to restart a semi-hot engine (runs on 6-7 syls for 20-30 seconds).

And the injectors are 26 years old, and have a zillion miles on them, so I can't imagine that they will spray as good as new ones.

And theye are not very expencive. I can get them from, say, here http://www.autopartsauthority.com/sp...tslisting.html

SharkSkin

Makes sense.... one thing you might try is when the engine is semi-hot as you describe, try to start it very briefly, just enough to shake up any fuel sitting on top of the pistons and get it on the plugs, then pull the plugs and see which if any plugs are wet. If they are all dry your problem may be elsewhere.

jpitman2

My warm start problem was cured by a new accumulator. The 928 injector is same as Peugeot K-jet 505 fwiw.
jp 83 Euro S AT 50k

gruffalo

I've checked the Peugeot injectors, and they were more expensive... (same thing with the brake light switches in the MC, more expencive from VW)

What were exactly your hot start porblems?

Mine are as follows: cold start - fine. Hot start - fine. Run the engine to operating temperature, leave it for half an hour or more, starts but runs on <8 sylinders for 30 seconds, and blows smoke on startup.

not a big issue, but still, I'd like to fix it.

MM

jpitman2

My warm start issue was mostly excessive cranking time to fire up. the screw in the top of the accumulator was wet with fuel, so I reckoned the diaphragm was perforated. When I first got the car, if it stood for > 1hr, < ~3hr, it would NOT start at all. Then one day I had the air cleaner right off it, I found a cable hanging down one side of engine with a multi pin plug on it, and went looking for a socket for the plug. I found it - on the inside face of the fuel distributor! Reconnecting this fixed the failure to start problem at least. I have never seen anything in Porsche documents on this connection, but I think I have seen something on it elsewhere - to do with exactly the problem I had.
jp 83 Euro S AT 50k

Peter F

What is the accumulator?
Is that the fuel distributor which all the fuel injection pipes hooks up to?

/Peter

Dennis Wilson

JP,

The plug attaches to the frequency valve on O2 sensored CIS systems. Unplugging it should have put it in a default rich mode. BTW the frequency valve adjusts the control pressure based upon the ECU processed O2 sensor signal. I expect that it was unplugged to compensate for some other lean running problem which was later fixed.

Dennis

V-Fib

The 79 did the same thing, drive to the football game, come out and be embarrassed by the hard start and smoke.........

Worked for me