Procedure for heater core
#2
I think it would be easiest if you were ready to remove the entire dash. It has bolts and a brace bar under the bolts holding it in from the fire-wall side. Its fun to take it out and find out whats been living in there!
#5
Originally Posted by SMTCapeCod
Ouch. Well no sense in doing that 'til I have the bankroll for JustDashes...and that'll be a while.
TECHNICALLY, the dash is only held on by a few bolts. The issue is that its kind of a message job with reference to what needs to be moved as I recall.
#6
Dash removal isn't that big of a deal, although I'm sure the center console has to come out, which probably takes more time than the dash itself. The pod comes off pretty quick, too.
Also, I'd contemplate having someone fill your dash, sand it flat, and have it recovered in cloth vinyl with a thin layer of padding. Closely resembles leather, and won't crack or shrink over time. Would also be a lot cheaper than JustDashes.
Oh, and I had a heater core leaking on my car--but I have the one 928 that has seen failures on all the "these NEVER fail" parts. It was done at the same time as the AC evaporator.
Also, I'd contemplate having someone fill your dash, sand it flat, and have it recovered in cloth vinyl with a thin layer of padding. Closely resembles leather, and won't crack or shrink over time. Would also be a lot cheaper than JustDashes.
Oh, and I had a heater core leaking on my car--but I have the one 928 that has seen failures on all the "these NEVER fail" parts. It was done at the same time as the AC evaporator.
#7
Originally Posted by heinrich
Agreed, remove the dash. Are you SURE the core needs replacement/repair?? They never ever go bad.
Heard that before! (regarding my K-jet ignition box, ignition distributor, few other itmes).
Well, the windows get all frogged on cool/cold days after I've been driving long enough for it to get warmed up and then park it for a few minutes. Humidity inside is tangible Haven't pulled the carpets to look for a leak yet. Sniffer says there is something leaking somewhere that gets into the HVAC air. Yes, the heater valve has been replaced and the hoses aft of the head have been checked for spilts and secure clamps.
Trending Topics
#8
Originally Posted by SMTCapeCod
Heard that before! (regarding my K-jet ignition box, ignition distributor, few other itmes).
Well, the windows get all frogged on cool/cold days after I've been driving long enough for it to get warmed up and then park it for a few minutes. Humidity inside is tangible Haven't pulled the carpets to look for a leak yet. Sniffer says there is something leaking somewhere that gets into the HVAC air. Yes, the heater valve has been replaced and the hoses aft of the head have been checked for spilts and secure clamps.
Well, the windows get all frogged on cool/cold days after I've been driving long enough for it to get warmed up and then park it for a few minutes. Humidity inside is tangible Haven't pulled the carpets to look for a leak yet. Sniffer says there is something leaking somewhere that gets into the HVAC air. Yes, the heater valve has been replaced and the hoses aft of the head have been checked for spilts and secure clamps.
As Brian suggested, the things that will never go bad can go bad. And he has the receipts to prove this I would assume.
#9
Hi I would check the floor on the passenger side, if this is wet then you will see foggy windows, the culprit may be a leaky blower box seal this is much easier to fix than the heater core. to fix this remove the blower motor from the top under the hood dont forget the long bolt that goes in from the bottom of the blower box, the bottom of the blower box is just on top of the relay board then remove the glove box then the bolts holding the bottom of the blower box, get some 3M black strip caulk, clean the sealing areas very well you can leave the original caulk on the blower bottom if its not dried out, just add another strip of fresh caulk and reinstall, this will cure the leak if you have one, Gluck happy new year, Stan