Tweaking EZ-F, part deux
#17
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AFAIK, most of the gains from chips come from the ignition timing.
If you put in chips, just plug the terminals back into the connector. You have to remove and disassemble the ECUs to install the chips, anyway.
I've been driving the '86 almost exclusively since I installed the new tensioner; no issues. I suppose I could have brackets made for RC testing as soon as early next month. (PKsnr thread)
If you put in chips, just plug the terminals back into the connector. You have to remove and disassemble the ECUs to install the chips, anyway.
If I follow Ken down the garden path of tricking the EZ-F, am I going to get in trouble if I finally get around to chipping the LH? From what I understand from reading, the reason my 86.5 is supposed to respond so well to the chip is that it uses up the substantial reserves built into the first 4-cammers. Is the EZ-F where that reserve comes from?
BTW, Ken, when will you be ready to recruit beta testers for the PorKensioner?
BTW, Ken, when will you be ready to recruit beta testers for the PorKensioner?
#18
Originally Posted by PorKen
AFAIK, most of the gains from chips come from the ignition timing.
If you put in chips, just plug the terminals back into the connector. You have to remove and disassemble the ECUs to install the chips, anyway.
I've been driving the '86 almost exclusively since I installed the new tensioner; no issues. I suppose I could have brackets made for RC testing as soon as early next month. (PKsnr thread)
If you put in chips, just plug the terminals back into the connector. You have to remove and disassemble the ECUs to install the chips, anyway.
I've been driving the '86 almost exclusively since I installed the new tensioner; no issues. I suppose I could have brackets made for RC testing as soon as early next month. (PKsnr thread)
#19
Nordschleife Master
I havent looked to closely at the service docs Ken, however does the MAP sensor do anything other than reduce load at WOT, what if you installed a check valve and left it on high vac always, this would give you 40 deg of advance at WOT would it not, be quick and easy to test if it would ping, might on lower octane, but doubtful on higher.
#20
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I volunteer PorKen's time and effort to find a way to wire a pair of knock sensors into the EZ-F circuit he's disabling. With 20 degrees of retard to play with, it could be a nice safety net.
That way, we could have the prettier cars (ahem) and not suffer from small-electronics envy, especially when John Speake gets us a Shark Tuner running.
That way, we could have the prettier cars (ahem) and not suffer from small-electronics envy, especially when John Speake gets us a Shark Tuner running.
#21
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Originally Posted by BrendanC
You just want to find out, as many others do, what an 86 intake does on an 87+ motor. With 86 cams.
#22
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This is a cool little unit. For $50, I reckon I might have to get one (or two).
KnockSense
You can even piggyback off of the existing EZK knock sensor(s) - (looky)
KnockSense
You can even piggyback off of the existing EZK knock sensor(s) - (looky)
#23
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Originally Posted by Silverback66
I volunteer PorKen's time and effort to find a way to wire a pair of knock sensors into the EZ-F circuit he's disabling. With 20 degrees of retard to play with, it could be a nice safety net.
That way, we could have the prettier cars (ahem) and not suffer from small-electronics envy, especially when John Speake gets us a Shark Tuner running.
That way, we could have the prettier cars (ahem) and not suffer from small-electronics envy, especially when John Speake gets us a Shark Tuner running.
How difficult is it to fit knock sensors to a 85/86 block (and a 84-86 Euro LH block ?)
Are there the special bosses to fit them, and the tapped holes ?
#25
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The knock sensors screw into two of the three threaded aluminum plugs on the bottom of the block valley. (I cannot find a part number for the plugs in PET, unfortunately.) There is only one threaded plug pre-87, to which a rubber mount is screwed. That mount is one of three that the throttle body elbow rests on.
The easiest way I can think of to attach a knock sensor, pre-87, would be to install the sensor in place of the rubber mount, as they are very nearly the same height.
The easiest way I can think of to attach a knock sensor, pre-87, would be to install the sensor in place of the rubber mount, as they are very nearly the same height.
Originally Posted by John Speake
Are there the special bosses to fit them, and the tapped holes ?
#27
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This is cool Porken! I'm going to try this connector mod. I wonder about the knock sensor mod though; my understanding is that they spend a lot of time and effort figuring exactly where to put those sensors, and exactly how much torque is necessary to hold them down while not making them deaf. Anyway, keep up the good work!
N!
PS: Picture of the valley...I think these three bolts are what he's talking about.
N!
PS: Picture of the valley...I think these three bolts are what he's talking about.
#28
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Hi Normy,
So is the threaded plug the one at the flywheel end of the block, on your Euro ?
I am comparing your pic with the Tech Info picture of the two knock sensors used on >87
Is it feasible to tap out the other two plugs ?
I would be interested to hear how you get on with PorKen's mod on your Euro !
So is the threaded plug the one at the flywheel end of the block, on your Euro ?
I am comparing your pic with the Tech Info picture of the two knock sensors used on >87
Is it feasible to tap out the other two plugs ?
I would be interested to hear how you get on with PorKen's mod on your Euro !
#29
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It is the rearmost plug which is tapped. The center one might be occluded by the TB elbow. The front is definately available.
In Normy's pic, the lower part of the broken rubber mount is still screwed in.
I would bet the plugs are the same as used for the front of the cylinder heads, to plug the drillings for the L-Jet cold start/CIS air injection passages. They look the same, with a 6mm hex cast into them.
900 219 004 02 screw plug - M 16 X 1,5
900 123 018 30 sealing ring - 16 X 20
In Normy's pic, the lower part of the broken rubber mount is still screwed in.
I would bet the plugs are the same as used for the front of the cylinder heads, to plug the drillings for the L-Jet cold start/CIS air injection passages. They look the same, with a 6mm hex cast into them.
900 219 004 02 screw plug - M 16 X 1,5
900 123 018 30 sealing ring - 16 X 20
#30
Originally Posted by PorKen
T(I cannot find a part number for the plugs in PET, unfortunately.) There is only one threaded plug pre-87, to which a rubber mount is screwed. That mount is one of three that the throttle body elbow rests on.
The easiest way I can think of to attach a knock sensor, pre-87, would be to install the sensor in place of the rubber mount, as they are very nearly the same height.
The easiest way I can think of to attach a knock sensor, pre-87, would be to install the sensor in place of the rubber mount, as they are very nearly the same height.