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Help please- TB tensioner rebuild?

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Old 12-13-2006, 11:28 AM
  #16  
leperboy
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Originally Posted by NJSharkFan
Now I'm thinking that the circlip isn't actually holding it on the arm, the bolt (and washer) were holding it on in that direction and the circlip is just holding it from going on too far. Is this right?
Yes. The bolt is holding it to the arm. The circlip is there to keep the bushing from traveling too far and causing the roller to hit the arm. Undo the bolt, the roller and bushing should come off easily. And then the circlip is a snap to remove and replace. You can probably do it without the clip pliers.

Matt
Old 12-13-2006, 11:45 AM
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soontobered84
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NJ
Yes to your question in post 15 above. Leperboy has also answered above. Good Luck
Old 12-13-2006, 12:26 PM
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Don't put the hard plastic bushings in the freezer and then hammer them in. Duh. I did this thinking that the bushing would be easier to slide in the idler arm, and promptly shattered the first one trying to gently tap it in. I bought new ones, and pressed them in (at room temperature) with a C-clamp and a couple of sockets.
Old 12-13-2006, 01:02 PM
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+1 what leperboy said.
Old 12-13-2006, 01:51 PM
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Mike Frye
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Thanks for the confirmation everyone, just got out of court about my initial tow. No surprise the guy didn't show up. What good is a judgement, does anybody know?

Anyway I'll be in there shortly to see if I can free up the roller the RIGHT way. You guys should have seen the muck I dug out of the oil filler fittings on the tensioner! I'm glad I checked in there before putting it all together, what a mess.

Mike, thanks for the tip on the bushings. I hadn't considered that, but my garage is not heated, so I might just put them in my pocket for a few minutes before putting them in.
Old 12-13-2006, 01:55 PM
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Bill Ball
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Yes, a c-clamp, or better yet, a vice, for squeezing in the bushings one at a time, making sure they start and go in square.

You can knock the old ones out with a screwdriver from behind. No worries that the blade might score the hole surface a little as the bushings cover it.
Old 12-13-2006, 02:03 PM
  #22  
Mike Frye
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Thanks Bill,

I think I'm on my way now. I can't believe I didn't see that that roller was just frozen in place. I guess my first instinct was: 'if it's stuck, there must be a reason', and I didn't want to force it.

Everyone's responses didn't make sense until I slept on them and figured that they all make it seem so easy, I must be missing something basic, like the damned thing is just stuck.

Wish I had those washers for the crank gear, I probably could get it back together today if I did...
Old 12-13-2006, 02:16 PM
  #23  
JKelly
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Originally Posted by NJSharkFan
You guys should have seen the muck I dug out of the oil filler fittings on the tensioner!
Those should have rubber caps on them.
Old 12-13-2006, 02:40 PM
  #24  
Mike Frye
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Jkelly,

Thanks. You don't know what's supposed to be there if it aint there when you go in.

I'm getting some when I go to rent the gear puller. Should be the same size as break bleeders I guess.
Old 12-13-2006, 03:11 PM
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soontobered84
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If you open the fittings on the tensioner and blow compressed air through the fittings, it makes it much easier to refill with oil later, plus you know that they are cleaned out (hint originally from ROG100)

Last edited by soontobered84; 12-13-2006 at 03:12 PM. Reason: addtion
Old 12-13-2006, 03:55 PM
  #26  
Mike Frye
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John,

Compressed air would have had no chance on these. I had to dig it out with my smallest allen wrench (see earlier post where I don't have a pick set yet). It took me a while too, it was really caked in there. This old girl has been neglected, but she's coming back slowly.



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