How to fix broken seat bolster OB style seats?
11-30-2006, 05:47 AM
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How to fix broken seat bolster OB style seats?
My driver's seat (81 USA) has that "crushed by Andre the giant look to it, even though the only owner of the car probably weighed 170# at the most.
Anyone know what leads to this? It's almost impossible to raise and lower the parking brake without smashing fingers, where there should be several inches o clearance.
Has anyone fixed this? I took the control panel off the side of the seat, but I can't see anything.
Anyone know what leads to this? It's almost impossible to raise and lower the parking brake without smashing fingers, where there should be several inches o clearance.
Has anyone fixed this? I took the control panel off the side of the seat, but I can't see anything.
Last edited by scott863; 11-30-2006 at 05:48 AM. Reason: typo
11-30-2006, 11:02 AM
#2
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LOL same thing happened to my '81. The bolster (where switches are correct?) is held on/up by 4 points welded to the frame. I believe the cause is sitting direcltly on the bolster when getting in or out. You cannot see the problem by removing switch panel. What is needed is to remove seat, remove switches, turn over and remove the seat track/motor assembly, then remove hog rings (metal staples) along the side of switch and front. Try to keep rings close to where they are removed for reinstall. You will find a thin metal rod through the leather, remove this and you should be able to pull leather up and over to reveal switch section. If reinforcement is totally broken it will be in the foam padding.
With the foam pulled out of the way and the frame exposed you will see where the bolster frame attaches. Mine was totally broken off, but by holding it on the frame it lined up.
Mig/tig is best to use however I did mine with an old arc welder. Make sure ALL leather/foam is covered with something to resist fire/heat (a spark kinda started some foam on mine). If you have an asistant welding will go faster as he/she can hold the piece in place for tacking. I used magnets to hold piece in place for initial weld.
Tack the two end pieces and reorient bolster to proper angle. This is really by guess/feel as the mounting points will have been bent somewhat out of shape. Although I took my time mine ended up slightly straighter than what I believe is correct.
When finished replace foam and recover.
I was amazed how different the seat felt. Since then I have replaced them with newer style seats from '85 or newer and have them boxed up (not sure what to do with them yet)
When seat is removed is also a good time to clean/regrease tracks as they need to be removed before work. Hope this helps.
With the foam pulled out of the way and the frame exposed you will see where the bolster frame attaches. Mine was totally broken off, but by holding it on the frame it lined up.
Mig/tig is best to use however I did mine with an old arc welder. Make sure ALL leather/foam is covered with something to resist fire/heat (a spark kinda started some foam on mine). If you have an asistant welding will go faster as he/she can hold the piece in place for tacking. I used magnets to hold piece in place for initial weld.
Tack the two end pieces and reorient bolster to proper angle. This is really by guess/feel as the mounting points will have been bent somewhat out of shape. Although I took my time mine ended up slightly straighter than what I believe is correct.
When finished replace foam and recover.
I was amazed how different the seat felt. Since then I have replaced them with newer style seats from '85 or newer and have them boxed up (not sure what to do with them yet)
When seat is removed is also a good time to clean/regrease tracks as they need to be removed before work. Hope this helps.
