6.0-928S

I have a Hemi crank & bearings in my spare bedroom!
I believe I still have the receipt from my block machining at home if you'd like to talk to the shop that did the work.

Hammer

Jim bailey - 928 International

You might post the name and contact at the machine shop it is always helpful to know of shops with experience with the 928 blocks.

6.0-928S

Hi Jim,
I'm sure you will probably know the shop since it was in your neighborhood somewhere. I'll try to remember to dig it out when I get home.
Hammer

Mike Simard

A Hemi crank would work! If you could take the time to measure some things I would appreciate it very much. The big questions are the width of the thrust bearing in crank and the shell diameters and width of the bearings themselves. There's also the diameter of the thrust flange that was increased at some point, I bet you know when. I've been on the verge of buying a Mopar crank and bearings just to find out if they could be modified to use practically but can't justify that because I've ordered a Moldex crank. The ideal thing to hope for would be that the Mopar thrust bearing width is the same and the shell diameters slightly larger to allow fitting with a line bore. Ahh...life would be good. The crank may be usable but the best case scenario would be that rod journals would have to be reducedin size, a custom flywheel used and the snout modified, that's best case but it would be nice to know.
I would like to know the name of the shop, they sound like a real asset to us.

6.0-928S

I went through my receipts last night. I found the one for the cylinder boring & honing (lapping?) but not the one for the dowels & align bore. It was 5 years or so ago, but I believe they did both operations. I don't remember shipping the block out there twice. It was 'Engine Dynamics' in Garden Grove, Ca. I dealt with Mike. I'll continue to look & if anything changes I will repost.
Hammer

Jim bailey - 928 International

The owner of Engine Dynamics has closed that shop and "retired" to Oregon.(like 1/2 of Californians) He may be available at some point in the future after he gets a shop put together there.... I have never heard of him machining and align boring a 928 block BUT it is possible. I do not think he was doing block work for Devek I think they used a machine shop in northern California for what ever machine work they needed when they were building stroker motors.

Mike Simard

Update: Here's what I decided on. 2 dowel sleeves around #2 and #4 main studs like Hammer's. Also 8 dowels around the 8mm outer holes. that's in addition to the dowel added to the front of the engine. The halves wewre bolted together with machined rounds of the main bearing bore diameter fitted and then reamed for the dowels. Then the lower case had .002 skimmed from the mounting surface and now they are clamped back together with the new dowels fitted and ready for line honing.

namasgt

How much a work like this would cost ?
I still cant get the 2 block halves to align.

Mike
nice job on the dowels.

blown 87

I still am not sure you have problem after talking to you on the phone, just because you can catch the lips of the girdle or the block with your fingernail does not mean they are not aligned.

If the dowel has not moved, and the crank girdle and block were from a running car, when you put the A bearing in and the oil pump it is going to line up, or you have real problems.

You need to get some measurements on it, and it will change once you put the bearings in it due to the crush of the bearings.

Put it together with the bearings and measure it, it is the only way you will know for sure, just like we talked about Friday.

Just my .02$

EDIT: remember that align boring is not a cure all, end all, it can and does cause other issues.

namasgt

Greg I agree with you 100%, Im just reading around to see how common is line boring on 928 blocks, Greg brown told me its not common but he has seen them. I tried to take pictures but the camera is not decent.
after I talked to you on the phone I gave it another go with the new oil pump seal and the original front bearing, same thing happened again. Im going to take it like this to the machine shop to check for roundness. if it doesnt pass then I have to see how much its going to cost me to line bore it. I know the oversized bearings are more expensive.
however, im not a fan of line boring, if an engine needs it then it could have other problems too,
Im going to do the exact procedure on the broken engine, to see how it differs to the this block.

Im too picky.

blown 87

Do not use a new oil pump o-ring, either use none or the old one, you keep saying oil pump seal, are you talking about the radial seal for the shaft, or the O-ring for the outside of the pump?

Personally I would get another block before I would align bore a 928 block, just a lot of places to screw up a $$ rebuild.

I also would go with what ever Greg Brown says, he has seen the inside of more 928 engines than I have seen 928's.

I have built one, with Greg Browns help, he has built hundreds, if not more.

I guess what I do not understand is how a running block suddenly becomes twisted, distorted or just not right simply by taking it apart and reassembling in the correct manor.

I guess what I am trying to say is that you really do not know if you have a problem or not, cause all you have is the fingernail test, not any real measuring devises.

I am not sold on you having a problem at this point.

The other Greg.

BC

The alignment of the block halves with the oil pump is to be done with no seal.

BC

IIRC

namasgt

its the O-ring for the outside the big skinny one. ofcourse if this block has issues I will get another one , Im still not convinced that its bad, I mean how lucky I can be. I hope I can return this if its truely bad.
thats why Im going to try to align the original broken engine, maybe that can tell if im doing it right.

namasgt

I tried it both ways, same result, with the finger nail test that is. I dont think it makes a difference as long as you have the one piece front bearing in correctly. also i tried it with the new front bearing and again with the old one.