Pfunde

Mine work's fine. However ones in a while if not driven for a few weeks and temperature is below zero ( celcius ) the pass. door want open untill I rev the engine and thus making vacum. Other tan that it work's fine..

bronto

You mean graphite the key lock?

Just to be clear, what doesn't work is the passenger side locking when the key is turned on the driver's side.

SharkSkin

Graphite in the lock won't help -- Ron has electric locks, so maybe that's the fix in his case. The vac locks have an actuator rod that can bind in a guide plate, you could have a vac leak, or the latch itself may be sticky. Vac leak can be identified with a mityvac without disassembling anything(except maybe the side console cover) but the other stuff has to be accessed by removing the interior door panel.

bronto

Well, it worked fine before it went to the mechanic. I should have mentioned that one of the things that needed fixing was the passenger window regulator, so that door had definitely been apart. I'm betting that the issue is mechanical, not vacuum, and that taking the door apart again will reveal this. I'm stalling on doing this until I have a replacement door pane and new speakers, so I can do it all at once. But the stories of getting locked out are starting to scare me a little...

SharkSkin

No, you won't get locked out. The driver side has no actuator, it only has a valve that operates the actuator on the other side. Again, electric locks are another story. You may have to go in there more than once to get it fully sorted out, so it might be a good idea to practice on the panel that's going to be replaced. You're not going to be happy if the new panel gets damaged upon removal... Diagram of the vac lock system below.

Ron_H

Recently, locking the driver's door with the key wouldn't work because it wouldn't actuate the lock on the passenger's side because the button would not drop far enough with the key. I had to physically push the button on the door down with my hand while holding the door open, and that actuated the lock on the passenger door. Then I closed the driver's door and the car was locked. So I sprayed powdered graphite in the lock and also in the rear hatch lock and
the mechanism worked properly. Now I can use the key to operate the driver's door and the passenger door lock will also lock at the same time. Works for me. Now I can have time to read comic books and play video games.

bronto

Sounds exactly like my issue, except the using the key on the passenger side will lock that side, and that my "force" of the lock was to just turn the lock **** from inside while the door was closed. That seems to keep it locked regardless of what's going on with the driver's side lock.

Just to be clear, yours is vacuum actuated, correct? I thought I read somewhere that they went electric in the early eighties. Your sig says you have an '86.5.

SharkSkin

Ron's is electric.

Sean79 5spd

Mine vacuum controlled locks work well. I also use graphite powder, it does wonders for any of the locks.

Sean

*bughouse*

Instead of the graphite powder I'd suggest "Tri-Flow" lubricant with teflon. It was sold to me by the locksmith that cut my 928 ignition key. They guy there said it would work much better than the graphite... which it does.