New guy with some questions.
#18
Addict
Rennlist Member
Artist Formerly Known As 84totheFloor
Rennlist Member
Artist Formerly Known As 84totheFloor
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 1,031
Likes: 8
From: Franklin, TN
John:
Welcome to the Rennlist board. Please consider registering - it will easily be the best $17 you spend on your Porsche. Some great MI 928'ers here.
Welcome to the Rennlist board. Please consider registering - it will easily be the best $17 you spend on your Porsche. Some great MI 928'ers here.
#23
Supercharged
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
Joined: May 2002
Posts: 18,925
Likes: 63
From: Back in Michigan - Full time!
Congrats on the acquisition.
We have a realy stong Detroit Metro 928 group. We get together on the 2nd Thursday of each month in Royal Oak for beer and burgers. Watch here for details or look it up on the search function. Also, if you send me your email, I'll put you on the email distribution list.
We have a realy stong Detroit Metro 928 group. We get together on the 2nd Thursday of each month in Royal Oak for beer and burgers. Watch here for details or look it up on the search function. Also, if you send me your email, I'll put you on the email distribution list.
#24
I had a spare Optima laying around that I put in the car. It's fully charged. I don't think the problem is battery related. The windows, sunroof, stereo, and cluster all work to some degree. The fuel pump usually cycles when the key is first rotated, but not always. I can hear a relay clicking down on the passenger floorboard, but that's about it when the key is cycled to the start position. This car has an alarm installed on it. I'm not sure if it works, or if it would prevent cranking. Someone loved this car about 15 years ago and spent a lot of money on it then. I don't think they spent a dime on it since.
I bought it with an advertised a bad clutch, passenger door, and fender. The clutch seems to be ok, but rather it just has a hydraulics issue. Everything else was supposed to work. However, that seems to not be the case.
I'm sure I'll learn a lot getting this thing to run.
I bought it with an advertised a bad clutch, passenger door, and fender. The clutch seems to be ok, but rather it just has a hydraulics issue. Everything else was supposed to work. However, that seems to not be the case.
I'm sure I'll learn a lot getting this thing to run.
#26
If you hear a relay click in the Central Electric Panel (under the passenger's toe board) when you turn the key, this indicates that the ignition switch is probably working, and since the five-speed cars have no start relay, the next most likely problem is corrosion in the connectors on the small wire that runs from the jumper bar in the start relay socket on to the starter solenoid, or dirty battery or ground connections. Don't forget the main chassis/engine ground strap on the bottom right of the engine.
If it is convenient for you to do so, you can get under the car and jumper from the post where the small yellow wire is attached, to the main battery connection next to it. Make CERTAIN that the transmission is in neutral - there is no safety switch!
If the starter works, the battery and ground connections are probably OK. Find the jump start terminal on the right front fender. (It is safe to jump start the car with a 12 volt battery - it is not safe to use a higher-voltage power supply, battery charger jump start, etc.) Next to the terminal is a 14-pole connector. It is not unusual for this connector to corrode due to water entering at the fender, especially if the plastic box over the connectors is missing.
Carefully clean the connector. Be careful - the wires will spring out of the connector when you take it apart if you aren't very careful, and it is a pain to get them all back in the correct positions.
You can use a test light or meter (the light is better) to see if there is 12 vdc on the yellow wire when you turn the ignition switch to the start position. If there is, but the starter doesn't work, but does work when you jumper the yellow wire to the battery wire at the starter solenoid, the problem may be a corroded wire in the harness between the connector and the solenoid.
In any case, the goal is to find where the 12 vdc disappears between the ignition switch and the solenoid.
If the starter doesn't work when you jumper the yellow wire to the battery cable at the solenoid, you will need to take the starter off and check the solenoid and the brushes. Disconnect the battery ground strap first!
If it is convenient for you to do so, you can get under the car and jumper from the post where the small yellow wire is attached, to the main battery connection next to it. Make CERTAIN that the transmission is in neutral - there is no safety switch!
If the starter works, the battery and ground connections are probably OK. Find the jump start terminal on the right front fender. (It is safe to jump start the car with a 12 volt battery - it is not safe to use a higher-voltage power supply, battery charger jump start, etc.) Next to the terminal is a 14-pole connector. It is not unusual for this connector to corrode due to water entering at the fender, especially if the plastic box over the connectors is missing.
Carefully clean the connector. Be careful - the wires will spring out of the connector when you take it apart if you aren't very careful, and it is a pain to get them all back in the correct positions.
You can use a test light or meter (the light is better) to see if there is 12 vdc on the yellow wire when you turn the ignition switch to the start position. If there is, but the starter doesn't work, but does work when you jumper the yellow wire to the battery wire at the starter solenoid, the problem may be a corroded wire in the harness between the connector and the solenoid.
In any case, the goal is to find where the 12 vdc disappears between the ignition switch and the solenoid.
If the starter doesn't work when you jumper the yellow wire to the battery cable at the solenoid, you will need to take the starter off and check the solenoid and the brushes. Disconnect the battery ground strap first!
#27
Originally Posted by 123quattro
I had a spare Optima laying around that I put in the car. It's fully charged. I don't think the problem is battery related. The windows, sunroof, stereo, and cluster all work to some degree. The fuel pump usually cycles when the key is first rotated, but not always. I can hear a relay clicking down on the passenger floorboard, but that's about it when the key is cycled to the start position. This car has an alarm installed on it. I'm not sure if it works, or if it would prevent cranking. Someone loved this car about 15 years ago and spent a lot of money on it then. I don't think they spent a dime on it since.
I bought it with an advertised a bad clutch, passenger door, and fender. The clutch seems to be ok, but rather it just has a hydraulics issue. Everything else was supposed to work. However, that seems to not be the case.
I'm sure I'll learn a lot getting this thing to run.
I bought it with an advertised a bad clutch, passenger door, and fender. The clutch seems to be ok, but rather it just has a hydraulics issue. Everything else was supposed to work. However, that seems to not be the case.
I'm sure I'll learn a lot getting this thing to run.
Do a search for all of Wally Plumley's posts and you'll learn more about this car than you'll get from the workshop manuals. However, the WSM is helpful, it's just that Wally explains it so it makes sense. There's a lot of info on about every topic in the various archives scattered around.
Harvey
#28
Thanks Wally. That's really useful info for me! I'm pretty handy with cars, just not up to speed on the particulars of these things. Here's a couple pics in case someone is interested.
#30
The car was backed into by a "utility trailer". It took out the front fender as well. It didn't put a mark on the shell though. In reality, it was more like it was backed through. The door shell got pushed in far enough that the door panel was ripped off the inside of the door.