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Eaton Supercharger - Andy Keel Screwed Me - Help!

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Old 11-17-2006 | 06:08 PM
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Oops, my bad, I sent the wrong picture. Yes that's what I'm supposed to have. It was a duplicate of the kit he sold on ebay.
Old 11-17-2006 | 06:52 PM
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Here's one I modified a bit...
Old 11-17-2006 | 07:01 PM
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Fred, do you have an intercooler? You mentioned not having the pump, so I thought you had Andy's IC.
Old 11-17-2006 | 07:13 PM
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Here is one on ebay-UK
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Porsche-928-Su...em300050282481
Same picture as the sheet in Bill's picture.
Old 11-17-2006 | 07:22 PM
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Originally Posted by Bill Ball
Fred, do you have an intercooler? You mentioned not having the pump, so I thought you had Andy's IC.
Bill, I'm assuming the intercooler is inside the manifold. Andy assembled and sealed the unit and it has two pipes coming out the manifold. One is in the front from the 'v' and the other is coming out the top in the back under the intake of the sc.

John, that UK auction looks like a scam!
Old 11-17-2006 | 07:35 PM
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There have been a number of scam auctions involving Andy's kit.

Fred - OK, I see the manifold is not sitting flat on the ground, so you must have the deep IC base not visible under there. The standard base is flat.

I'll start to better specify the part sources for what you are missing. The pulleys will take some thought.
Old 11-17-2006 | 08:33 PM
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Fred,
This is the eBay item number for the Lightning/Cobra intercooler/heat exchanger pump I bought. It was $80.00 = $9.00 shipping for a NIB pump from Ford Racing. 270052295061
Old 11-17-2006 | 09:26 PM
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Originally Posted by cfc928gt
Bill, I'm assuming the intercooler is inside the manifold. Andy assembled and sealed the unit and it has two pipes coming out the manifold. One is in the front from the 'v' and the other is coming out the top in the back under the intake of the sc.

John, that UK auction looks like a scam!

Just a quick look at it here...

I think the SC is on backwards in that pic?
I can only speak for the autorotors but the IC fitting on TOP was next to the snout...the one in teh VEE came out the back?..your pic looks bassackwards?

I think Bill gave a pretty good rundown..
Looks like you need..
1) a pulley for sure
2) By pass valve
3) filter
4) injectors
5) gasket material
6) Bills nifty throttle/ pulley set up.
7) oil breather/seperator system

As i think of others ill add them. Looks like you have the "meat and potatos" of it though. However, your going NO WHERE with out the pulley.

I know from experience that it CAN NOT be done in a weekend. You always run into stock odds and end that need replacing (need to be ordered), items breaks..etc etc...ya know the simple job that goes ugly real quick.

My advice is get a pulley and a bypass valve. Make for CERTAIN that the manfold halves are truely sealed as it will be nitghmare if it isnt (vac leaks).
Have a "spare" car so you can afford to have the car "down" for a month...and go for it!

Oh yeah..and be good to your wife

You have many that have BTDT on the list here.

This is what i got...and a bag of nuts and bolts and rear inlet not shown
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Old 11-17-2006 | 11:01 PM
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Sorry to hear of your misfortune Fred, hopefully things work out in the end. It's like you said, if Andy would just let you know what's going on it would make things a little more bearable by knowing what his story is.
Old 11-17-2006 | 11:30 PM
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99% certain the ebay is a scam -it was withdrawn under scrutiny about a year ago, had it under radar due to location.
Old 11-20-2006 | 03:22 PM
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Any idea who makes the bypass valve and what the part # is? Also, those with an eaton how far from the A/C pulley is the sc pulley? Pictures would help. Thanks for everyones support and responses.
Old 11-20-2006 | 03:55 PM
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The magnuson remote bypass valve is the one for the eatons, I am looking for a source to buy it from too. Maybe they sell them direct?
Old 11-20-2006 | 04:01 PM
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I still owe you some further part info. Later tonight.
Old 11-20-2006 | 04:11 PM
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Originally Posted by cfc928gt
Any idea who makes the bypass valve and what the part # is? Also, those with an eaton how far from the A/C pulley is the sc pulley? Pictures would help. Thanks for everyones support and responses.
Here is a link to some pics and a brief description of my install.

http://www.lasotaracing.com/carter/1.jpg
http://www.lasotaracing.com/carter/2.jpg
http://www.lasotaracing.com/carter/3.jpg
http://www.lasotaracing.com/carter/4.jpg
http://www.lasotaracing.com/carter/5.jpg


As far as the motor goes...

We use the lower manifold that you provided is, we modified it slightly to accommodate our new rear inlet for the supercharger (we had to move the bypass, so we had to drill/tap a hole for it). The old bypass hole on the lower manifold has a block off plate on it that houses the manifold temp sensor (post blower). From there we have 3.5" stainless inlet tubing, the idle air bypass (idle stabilizer) is between the new inlet manifold and the blower tubing, the air box temp sensor is in the 3.5" piping on the driver side near the throttle body as well. There is a 12"x6" K&N air filter in the fender well. The front inner fender needs to be removed to gain access to the filter.
We had to relocate the power steering reservoir, which now mounts to the 3.5" inlet piping. The kit was originally designed to run 2 separate belts for the power steering and alternator. To simplify things we modified the kit to run a single 6 rib belt. We made a hub-centric spacer to bring the power steering pulley out to line up with the alternator and then machined a spacer to hold and idler pulley between the alternator and power steering pump. The alternator tensioner controls the tension on this belt, to remove it you just loosen the tensioner on the alternator. We also had to machine the lower pulley to mount to the crank pulley correctly as well as machine a spacer to bring the blower pulley out 1/8" to line up with the lower pulley correctly. Tension should be checked every 3,000 miles or so on the blower belt, the tensioner for it is off the front blower bracket (I'll show you how this works).

The electric fan that we installed uses 4 gauge wire going to a constant duty solenoid that is triggered by the thermostat that you provided. We made custom stainless steel brackets that mount the fan to the radiator. The fan is a Volvo 15" fan. It draws 80 amps on startup and about 30 amps continuous.

The Throttle brackets and cables that we made where all custom (obviously completely different from the kit) We retain the stock-style mounts for both cables, however there location is changed. We eliminated the second throttle lever on the throttle body and modified the first lever to accept the stock style ball and cup attachments for the cruise control and the throttle cable. There is also a mount at the bottom of the lever that holds the throttle return spring. The throttle bracket is made from 1/8" steel, it mounts to a 1/2" aluminum plate that is welded to the driver side fuel rail. It also has a 16 gauge steel strap that attaches to the top middle drivers side valve cover bolt to give the throttle bracket added support (believe it or not because of the return spring there is a lot of load on that bracket).

The fuel system under the engine bay retains nothing stock. I machined a steel block to accept the stock flair-style fitting coming off of the stock fuel feed line from the gas tank (I did not want to cut this line). The feed line goes to a -6 push-lock line (pushlock is rated to 250psi) into a magna-fuel -6x-6x-6 Y-block. The block Y's to both of the fuel rails with -6 line. The fuel rails are custom built from http://www.behindbarsracecars.com/. They are 17" long, the end ports are 3/8" NPT fittings and the injectors are 4.82" center to center and the injector holes are .530". The injecotr holes are centered in the 17" rail. We had to weld mounting taps to the fuel rails as well as the bracket we made for the throttle cable. The rails go into a Aeromotive A1000 2 port fuel regulator (30-100psi unit) then out to the stock return line. None of the stock hardlines had to be modified in any way, we adapted everything to them. This regulator raises on a 1:1 ratio with boost (as most do).

The catch cans we made are 48mm by about 8". They use K&N filters with a 48mm opening and 2 5/8" lines from each valve cover going to the catch cans. We (obviously) added 2 breather ports to the driver side valve cover. We disabled the stock regulated style venting system for the charcoal canister and made it function as a constant venting system (from the factory it is regulated for emissions). (EDIT-These work fine for street use but are useless on the track)

We used NKG BPR6ES which are one step colder than stock gapped to .028".

Thanks!
Rob LaSota
Old 11-24-2006 | 02:37 PM
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Tony, that pipe coming out the IC in the first picture is what is coming out the front snout end of the 'v'. It also looks like Andy had a different crank pulley than what I see in Ricks pictures. Yours looks like an aluminum pulley was rivited onto the a/c pulley. Is that right?

Ben, thanks for the sympathies, Andy's silence is deafening.

Warren, any idea what the magnuson part# is for the bypass valve?

Rick, thanks for the pics, they help.


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