Stroker on 5L Euro S Motor?
11-22-2006, 05:40 PM
#106
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Well I'm stuck with my 2V heads so I will make the best of it that I can. I know it is an old car I just want to make it a nice strong running car, I have no delusions of being the fastest guy around.
Gary
Gary
11-22-2006, 05:57 PM
#107
I actually like the 2V heads. I did a 4.5L rebuild (don't ask) with new pistons, pins, rings, rehoned the block, rebuilt the head, new guides, new seals, mains, etc. Great learning experience. I wanted to replace the valve springs, but found that they were 60 bucks a set. A set? I mean EACH VALVE SET of springs was 60 dollars. Do the math.
I figured out that a nice set of Crower springs for the ford small blocks I think was a good match at 300lbs open, and around 120 closed, because I was installing the 78 cams which have a bit more lift.
Anyway, I bought a cutter, and recut the seats for the valve springs, so the installed height matched what I wanted for the closed and opened weight on the springs. I never started that engine, and sold it for a good price as a completed engine (euro intake, etc), but it seemed to really work.
So my moral here is that Gary - you want the 2V head to flow you want to get the work done right, and the rpms you will need to get those heads to make good power will need very strong springs, and there basically isn't much to choose from. They are very small, OEM, and the cost is outrageous. Don't be afraid to dip into chevy and ford stuff that is tried and true. You can use a chevy intake valve and have the stems recut, or even use the chevy locks with Ti valve retainers on those aftermarket springs I have described.
I figured out that a nice set of Crower springs for the ford small blocks I think was a good match at 300lbs open, and around 120 closed, because I was installing the 78 cams which have a bit more lift.
Anyway, I bought a cutter, and recut the seats for the valve springs, so the installed height matched what I wanted for the closed and opened weight on the springs. I never started that engine, and sold it for a good price as a completed engine (euro intake, etc), but it seemed to really work.
So my moral here is that Gary - you want the 2V head to flow you want to get the work done right, and the rpms you will need to get those heads to make good power will need very strong springs, and there basically isn't much to choose from. They are very small, OEM, and the cost is outrageous. Don't be afraid to dip into chevy and ford stuff that is tried and true. You can use a chevy intake valve and have the stems recut, or even use the chevy locks with Ti valve retainers on those aftermarket springs I have described.
