Linkage problem Update
11-12-2006, 03:37 PM
#1
Drifting
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jul 2006
Location: Ramona, CA
Posts: 3,280
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Linkage problem Update
Hey guys,
Well I finally have an update from my earlier posted Linkage Problem.
Finally had the chance to work on the problem & replace front linkage ball socket. What a bitch to remove the old cat & Y-pipe that had old rusted & mismatched hardware. Then about half of the heat shield’s hardware was rusted & wouldn’t come loose because is was spinning. Once all that was out of the way I could clearly see the socket that had completely failed.
I carefully counted the number of turns to remove the old socket assembly and replaced it with the new one I got from 928 International. But that’s when the fun really began as there is little or not room to work up in there I first tried a retching strap and a block of wood but it kept slipping off the ball. I was about to give up when I decided to use a nail puller/pry bar using the top of the transmission tunnel to apply pressure to the top of the ball socket. This took a little doing but if finally popped into place & didn’t do any damage to the top of the tunnel.
Once that was in place I reversed my disassembly process. Replaced all the old heat shield fittings and all the old exhaust hardware as well as manifold to Y-pipe gaskets and the cat to exhaust ring. I also took the opportunity to replace my cat-Y-pipe with a strait Y-pipe minus the cat. I ran out of time to perform an en-depth test drive. But I did take it out for a quick test run running up & down through the gears and it feels like it’s as it should be and if it needs any adjustments they’re minimum but according to my information that can be done at the rear.
Another unexpected side affect was that I noted that my Sharks “mystery vibration” seems to have completely disappeared. It seems that this might have been the root cause of that annoying vibration at the higher RPMs (3k +) while in gear under load.
Also I love the sound of my Borla exhaust with the Cat removed.
I just have to pop it back in when I go for my bi-annual smog check. But with the newer hardware this should take me about a half an hour.
I plan on taking it out a little later on today for a longer test drive and a well deserved spa treatment at the local car “hand” wash after sitting on jack stands for the last couple of weeks.
Well I finally have an update from my earlier posted Linkage Problem.
Finally had the chance to work on the problem & replace front linkage ball socket. What a bitch to remove the old cat & Y-pipe that had old rusted & mismatched hardware. Then about half of the heat shield’s hardware was rusted & wouldn’t come loose because is was spinning. Once all that was out of the way I could clearly see the socket that had completely failed.
I carefully counted the number of turns to remove the old socket assembly and replaced it with the new one I got from 928 International. But that’s when the fun really began as there is little or not room to work up in there I first tried a retching strap and a block of wood but it kept slipping off the ball. I was about to give up when I decided to use a nail puller/pry bar using the top of the transmission tunnel to apply pressure to the top of the ball socket. This took a little doing but if finally popped into place & didn’t do any damage to the top of the tunnel.
Once that was in place I reversed my disassembly process. Replaced all the old heat shield fittings and all the old exhaust hardware as well as manifold to Y-pipe gaskets and the cat to exhaust ring. I also took the opportunity to replace my cat-Y-pipe with a strait Y-pipe minus the cat. I ran out of time to perform an en-depth test drive. But I did take it out for a quick test run running up & down through the gears and it feels like it’s as it should be and if it needs any adjustments they’re minimum but according to my information that can be done at the rear.
Another unexpected side affect was that I noted that my Sharks “mystery vibration” seems to have completely disappeared. It seems that this might have been the root cause of that annoying vibration at the higher RPMs (3k +) while in gear under load.
Also I love the sound of my Borla exhaust with the Cat removed.
I just have to pop it back in when I go for my bi-annual smog check. But with the newer hardware this should take me about a half an hour. I plan on taking it out a little later on today for a longer test drive and a well deserved spa treatment at the local car “hand” wash after sitting on jack stands for the last couple of weeks.
11-12-2006, 04:39 PM
#2
Rennlist Member
Just for fun, loop a long tie-wrap around the torque tube and ball-cup, just ahead of the lock nut .... snug loosely: this will be the long term security to keep it from popping off the ball stud when it eventually wears out.
Fun job -isn't it?
Fun job -isn't it?
11-12-2006, 04:58 PM
#3
Drifting
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jul 2006
Location: Ramona, CA
Posts: 3,280
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Great idea. I actually put a heavy duty tie-rap on the front of the tube & ball cap threaded end. But I'm not to sure it would pop off that easily given how much presure it took to get the damn thing on it. Should hold it in place and I plan on inspecting it each time I have to install the Cat Y-pipe for the bi-anual smog check.
Anyway here’s a picture of the culprit that caused me so much pain.
Anyway here’s a picture of the culprit that caused me so much pain.
11-14-2006, 02:03 PM
#4
Drifting
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jul 2006
Location: Ramona, CA
Posts: 3,280
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Well, I got to take the old gal out for a good long test drive yesterday. Everything seems ok with none of the vibration I had before at the higher (3000 +) RPMs. Strange but now I get a ever so slight whining noise at anything over 100 mph?.. Hmm? I think that needs more testing.
But anyway if I had any complaints after yesterdays test drive it'd be that I think I need to make some "minor" adjusts to the linkage as its a bit stiff getting it into or out of some of the gears. She slips into gear find if I go from first into second or go directly from first into third. But when I go from second to third it's pretty stiff and a little clunky. Also down shifting isn't as smooth I would expect. But I suspect that it'll never be as sliky smooth my MGB and is really more akin to my dad’s old truck than what you’d expect from a passenger car. But all & all – minus the vibration & occasional binding I experienced before the linkage failure, this is pretty much the same as before.
I love my Shark!
But anyway if I had any complaints after yesterdays test drive it'd be that I think I need to make some "minor" adjusts to the linkage as its a bit stiff getting it into or out of some of the gears. She slips into gear find if I go from first into second or go directly from first into third. But when I go from second to third it's pretty stiff and a little clunky. Also down shifting isn't as smooth I would expect. But I suspect that it'll never be as sliky smooth my MGB and is really more akin to my dad’s old truck than what you’d expect from a passenger car. But all & all – minus the vibration & occasional binding I experienced before the linkage failure, this is pretty much the same as before.
I love my Shark!
11-14-2006, 02:37 PM
#5
Craic Head
Lifetime Rennlist
Member
Lifetime Rennlist
Member
Thanks for the update Bret.
How long did it take you to remove the exhaust? I attempted this job a few weeks ago without removing the exhaust and couldn't get my fat fingers in there to get it done. I'm not even sure the exhaust was the problem, so much as working around the TT.
I temporarily put a hose clamp on it so I can shift in the meantime (and it hasn't popped since), but I've got to get back in and do it right.
How long did it take you to remove the exhaust? I attempted this job a few weeks ago without removing the exhaust and couldn't get my fat fingers in there to get it done. I'm not even sure the exhaust was the problem, so much as working around the TT.
I temporarily put a hose clamp on it so I can shift in the meantime (and it hasn't popped since), but I've got to get back in and do it right.
11-14-2006, 02:59 PM
#6
Drifting
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jul 2006
Location: Ramona, CA
Posts: 3,280
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Hey Mike,
Well I couldn't even see attempting to do this without pulling the exhaust and the heat shield. Perhaps the underside of a 85 is significantly different than a 78's. On my car the Y-pipe is directly under where I needed to work. But I think mine was really a pain in the butt to remove because of the old rusted & mismatched hardware. Also I had to remove the cross member to allow the old Y-pipe & heat shield to drop away smoothly.
Before re-assembly I purchased new exhaust gaskets and hardware and it went together really easy.
Well I couldn't even see attempting to do this without pulling the exhaust and the heat shield. Perhaps the underside of a 85 is significantly different than a 78's. On my car the Y-pipe is directly under where I needed to work. But I think mine was really a pain in the butt to remove because of the old rusted & mismatched hardware. Also I had to remove the cross member to allow the old Y-pipe & heat shield to drop away smoothly.
Before re-assembly I purchased new exhaust gaskets and hardware and it went together really easy.