Vibration, wheel balance doesn't seem to help
#16
Nordschleife Master
Tire and wheels and vibration make me nuts.
Swap with a known good set of tires and wheels, make sure the mounting is done correctly. Isolating the problem is always my first step.
It could even be the new tires/wheels are actually smoother running than the old ones, so that you now notice something that used to be masked.
Good luck. (as in may the first thing you try be the right one).
Swap with a known good set of tires and wheels, make sure the mounting is done correctly. Isolating the problem is always my first step.
It could even be the new tires/wheels are actually smoother running than the old ones, so that you now notice something that used to be masked.
Good luck. (as in may the first thing you try be the right one).
#17
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I'm getting vibrations from the rear - more when the car had been sitting for a longer time. It seems to get better after driving it for a while.
My first car in the US - an 89 Ford Probe LX - had vibrationis from the rear at about 70mph. They usually got worse after some time of driving. I went from tire shop to tire shop and learned about their incompetence and renentless hunger for selling me unnecessary stuff. I took it to the Ford Dealer, where I was told that I wasn't supposed to drive that fast anyway. Then, one day I mentioned it to the MIDAS shop around the corner from where I lived, and the manager took finding the problem as a personal challenge. Well, it was fairly lsimple: The rear brake dums were warped, but nobody had ever looked at that before...
My first car in the US - an 89 Ford Probe LX - had vibrationis from the rear at about 70mph. They usually got worse after some time of driving. I went from tire shop to tire shop and learned about their incompetence and renentless hunger for selling me unnecessary stuff. I took it to the Ford Dealer, where I was told that I wasn't supposed to drive that fast anyway. Then, one day I mentioned it to the MIDAS shop around the corner from where I lived, and the manager took finding the problem as a personal challenge. Well, it was fairly lsimple: The rear brake dums were warped, but nobody had ever looked at that before...
#18
Nordschleife Master
My dealer told me its the tire, a "slipped belt", which just made the tire guys laugh and tell me the tire is fine take it back to the dealer. Eventually it sort of went away, and I never did find out what was causing it.
4day tire stores used to have a device that used a grinder or cutter for two steps, trimming the tread for zero run out (perfectly round "as mounted on wheel"), then something on the side I think of the tread to make the rolling force from the sidewall flex constant. A good tire guy checks the runout when the tire is mounted, and remounts with the tire turned relative to the wheel until he gets the best fit and balance. Some shops also have a max amount of weights they put on before remounting in a new position.
Next new car I bought I found a dealer that owned the tire store too, unfortunately I never had a problem. ;(
4day tire stores used to have a device that used a grinder or cutter for two steps, trimming the tread for zero run out (perfectly round "as mounted on wheel"), then something on the side I think of the tread to make the rolling force from the sidewall flex constant. A good tire guy checks the runout when the tire is mounted, and remounts with the tire turned relative to the wheel until he gets the best fit and balance. Some shops also have a max amount of weights they put on before remounting in a new position.
Next new car I bought I found a dealer that owned the tire store too, unfortunately I never had a problem. ;(
#20
Racer
Thread Starter
GEEEEZ.
I"m not sure of the technical aspects of what the guy is doing when he balances the tires on the Hunter, but I have the same guy do it each time, and he checks all sorts of things. The last time, he loosened one tire off the wheel and turned it about 180 degrees and then balanced it.
I don't have another set of tires and wheels anymore. That would be a good way to see if it's the tires/wheels.
When I have my wheels balanced, I always remove and install them myself. I have my own torque wrench to make adjustments after a few miles of driving.
As far as I know, the motor mounts have not been replaced. I'll have to check and see if the motor rocks when the throttle is blipped. My vibration problem really doesn't seem like the type that would come from motor mounts. It seems like it's from something turning, like wheels, rotors, wheel bearings, drive shafts, etc...
My steering rack seemed fine when I checked it.
Rear axles and CV's seemed fine when I checked those over. I had the car in the shop to "baseline" it earlier this year. That's when I had the wheels/tires changed over, and tried to fix my transmission problem. The mechanic and I checked everything we could think of in the suspension, front end, brakes, exhaust, steering, etc...
I don't know the procedure he used to replacing the rear wheel bearings. How does one tell if there's a problem with the wheel bearings?
I guess I'll bring it back in for balancing again and note how far out each wheel is.
I was thinking it could be flat spots on the tires from sitting in the shop. But don't those usually run out after 10 or 20 miles of driving?
I"m not sure of the technical aspects of what the guy is doing when he balances the tires on the Hunter, but I have the same guy do it each time, and he checks all sorts of things. The last time, he loosened one tire off the wheel and turned it about 180 degrees and then balanced it.
I don't have another set of tires and wheels anymore. That would be a good way to see if it's the tires/wheels.
When I have my wheels balanced, I always remove and install them myself. I have my own torque wrench to make adjustments after a few miles of driving.
As far as I know, the motor mounts have not been replaced. I'll have to check and see if the motor rocks when the throttle is blipped. My vibration problem really doesn't seem like the type that would come from motor mounts. It seems like it's from something turning, like wheels, rotors, wheel bearings, drive shafts, etc...
My steering rack seemed fine when I checked it.
Rear axles and CV's seemed fine when I checked those over. I had the car in the shop to "baseline" it earlier this year. That's when I had the wheels/tires changed over, and tried to fix my transmission problem. The mechanic and I checked everything we could think of in the suspension, front end, brakes, exhaust, steering, etc...
I don't know the procedure he used to replacing the rear wheel bearings. How does one tell if there's a problem with the wheel bearings?
I guess I'll bring it back in for balancing again and note how far out each wheel is.
I was thinking it could be flat spots on the tires from sitting in the shop. But don't those usually run out after 10 or 20 miles of driving?
#22
Just an idea - possibly check the rotors if all else fails? I know it sounds far-fetched, but my truck had a bit of a vibration at 60-75 - the dealer swapped the tires front to back, and replaced the rotors because they were out of balance - sounds strange but it seems to have worked. I have never heard of a 928 having this problem, but the front rotors are pretty big...if one of them were off it may cause a vibration at speed i would guess...
#23
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I would recommend that we all do extensive speed testing mostly between 100 and 170mph to weed out any vibrations and trace the possible causes. I try to do this often, it's very important!!!
#24
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Originally Posted by bgrabner
Just an idea - possibly check the rotors if all else fails? I know it sounds far-fetched, but my truck had a bit of a vibration at 60-75 - the dealer swapped the tires front to back, and replaced the rotors because they were out of balance - sounds strange but it seems to have worked. I have never heard of a 928 having this problem, but the front rotors are pretty big...if one of them were off it may cause a vibration at speed i would guess...
#26
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There is a counterbalance weight on the prop shaft within the torque tube of later cars ... IIRC: what are the symptoms if this loosens and begins moving back and forth on the shaft? ..... it may alter the node of vibration if incorrectly situated.
Dead motor mount induced vibrations can be felt in the seat when at idle on a cold start up ..... never seemed particularly bothersome at 160Kmph ....
Dead motor mount induced vibrations can be felt in the seat when at idle on a cold start up ..... never seemed particularly bothersome at 160Kmph ....
#27
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Is your tyre a "v" or "w" ( 270km/h or 300 km/h ) If so, there's extra metal inforcement and harder compound, and therefore it's need's some heat after sitting for even a day before it's ok. Therefor, take a drive to get some heat in the tyres, then balance them. That's how I do it.
#28
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Originally Posted by Pfunde
Is your tyre a "v" or "w" ( 270km/h or 300 km/h ) If so, there's extra metal inforcement and harder compound, and therefore it's need's some heat after sitting for even a day before it's ok. Therefor, take a drive to get some heat in the tyres, then balance them. That's how I do it.
If someone else comes up with one more thing that could be the problem . . . .
Just kidding, I appreciate the suggestions, but just don't know how any of you find the time to keep up with these things.
Where does one get wheel rotors balanced?
#29
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Originally Posted by greg928GTS
When I brought the car in to have the tires balanced, it had been sitting for at least a week, and then just a few minutes drive to the shop. So maybe I do need to take it out for a longer run, drive really fast and get the tires warmed up, then have the tires balanced.
Where does one get wheel rotors balanced?
Where does one get wheel rotors balanced?
#30
Nordschleife Master
Try another shop. Ask around every town seems to have one place that does the few dollars more but no issues balancing.
Fortunately I haven't had a vibration issue in last two cars, so I don't pay much attention, but it used to be that some shops used a cone type thing to center the wheel, and some used the studs which is sometimes different centered.
Spinning a wheel on the car should reveal any balance issues if present. Last guy put a mark on the tire and used a spinner and a strobe light.
Does anybody have a accelerometer transducer that works with a laptop, would be fun maybe to do some vibration analysis.
Fortunately I haven't had a vibration issue in last two cars, so I don't pay much attention, but it used to be that some shops used a cone type thing to center the wheel, and some used the studs which is sometimes different centered.
Spinning a wheel on the car should reveal any balance issues if present. Last guy put a mark on the tire and used a spinner and a strobe light.
Does anybody have a accelerometer transducer that works with a laptop, would be fun maybe to do some vibration analysis.