ROG100

Having completed a number of Tensioner rebuilds it dawned on me that I no longer have a problem in getting oil to flow through and fill up the tensioner.
I remember when I did my first one on my GTS it took about two days of messing around with gravity feeds and vacuum feeds and pressure feeds to get the job done.
Of course I read the tip sites and searched rennlist.
I bought a pistol grip oil can as suggested on Rennlist for a couple of $.
OK why am I posting - well the reason I no longer have a problem is that I started to blow out the cavities and oil ways with compressed air before rebuilding the tensioner. This is important - do it when the tensioner is stripped down. If you do it after it is rebuilt you will create a mini cannon and send the end cap flying across the garage. Ask me how I know
After blowing out the cavities and oil ways and rebuilding the tensioner remove both bleed nipples and using the oil can squirt oil into the left hole (viewed from the front). Oil should flow from the other hole within about a minute.
Hope this is useful to someone.

bgrabner

Very timely Roger - getting ready to do the same thing! (Once I get my cam gears synched up that is). Thanks!

the flyin' scotsman

Do you use 90w oil Roger?

I tried using a squirt can with a hose attached to the fill nipple (left) and had the the other backed off but it took forever to fill. I'll remove the nipples next time.

ROG100

Malcom,
I use 15W 50 and the secret is to blow the tensioner out with compressed air first.
Roger

Shane

I agree Roger! Exactly the same equipment and process I use. First time I did the tensioner it took a Loooooonnnnggg time to get oil through. Now its a snap!

the flyin' scotsman

Thx Roger but to blow the tensionser our entails its removal and dismantle which I assume you do as part of the t.belt replacement project or can you remove the tensioner leaving most everything else intack?

Realise you'd want to recheck the tension after assembly.

jon928se

How does blowing out the tensioner assist getting the oil in?Puzzled

I found that the bleed nipples are the main obstruction to oil flow even backed out a long way- Threaded a piece of alu tube to fit the thread in the tensioner and connect plastic hose to that was way quicker.

ROG100

Crud in the oil way - that is what was blocking everything on mine.
I was amazed how much crud was in there.

justin

Roger, that is a good idea,thanks for the tip buddy. I just wish I had a hyd. tensioner on mine.

RichS 1986928

So does the tensioner need to be removed before it's cleared with Compressed air? Mine
is newly rebuilt but I didn't get to see it done.

I recently used the oil can fill method, pumped it into the left valve, I used 80W-90 as
specified here http://www.928intl.com/repair/T-belt1.pdf

I've seen several posts saying that I should used motor oil, Roger where did you come up with 15W-50?

My T-belt warning comes on every cold morning for me, YES, I've checked the Tension. It's right,
I've re-checked, it didn't need adjustment. I'm using the Kempf tool. This problem only happens
when the motor is cold over night. It's very consistent.

I'm hoping that maybe using a lighter oil will solve this problem for me but it seems unlikely.

Any thoughts?

thanks,
Rich

ROG100

Rich,
IIRC the change to motor oil was made by Porsche and the information posted on Rennlist by WallyP.
I use 15W 50 because thats the oil I use for my cars.

I am talking about cleaning the tensioner when it is dismantled, not when it is still attached to the engine.

As for the TB light - I don't not like the sound of it and would want to understand why its happening.
I suggest you post as new thread so you can get feedback from other owners in cold climates.

RichS 1986928

Thanks Roger,

I already did post this once. https://rennlist.com/forums/928-forum/304509-t-belt-warning-when-cold.html

I just found out that Wally has responded. I'm going to reply to that post, Thanks Rich

SteveG

If "hyd" stands for hydraulic, no one does. For the umpteenth time, the oil functions as a dampening fluid, no hydraulics involved.

SharkSkin

Dampening fluid yes, but primarily it's for heat transfer to the washer stack...

justin

Ahh, ok, I guess i didnt know that, when I did my last T/B I just replaced the little dust boot, didnt know I could change the oil, DOH! Oh well, something else to add to the "list".