Murf Supercharger Install Update - Updated
#1
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Day 1
I had been having some "loping" problems and running rich so we checked the timing belt -it was off one notch on the ds cam gear so we essentially had to redo the timing belt. At least that is now done, but it added a couple of hours to the process.
Got the new pulleys and belts on, bracket and head unit mounted, new dipstick, oil filter sandwich plate, and FMU mounted.
Tomorrow I need to install the fuel lines, air intake, breather hoses and fans, then I am (hopefully) good to go.
Only problem I am having is with the s/c belt - it is a very tight fit. I've got it aligned on the crank pulley, but on the s/c pulley I can only get it on 7 of the 8 grooves - I cant get it over the last ridge. I don't want to use a screwdriver and bugger up the pulley. Any suggestions?
My observations of the kit are that it is of very, very high quality. The s/c mounting bracket is solid, and the instructions are very comprehensive and easy to follow.
Thanks to Jeff for coming by and his invaluable help - specially with the timing issue.
I hope to get her buttoned up sometime around lunchtime tomorrow, and then it is time for a nice, gentle test drive.
I had been having some "loping" problems and running rich so we checked the timing belt -it was off one notch on the ds cam gear so we essentially had to redo the timing belt. At least that is now done, but it added a couple of hours to the process.
Got the new pulleys and belts on, bracket and head unit mounted, new dipstick, oil filter sandwich plate, and FMU mounted.
Tomorrow I need to install the fuel lines, air intake, breather hoses and fans, then I am (hopefully) good to go.
Only problem I am having is with the s/c belt - it is a very tight fit. I've got it aligned on the crank pulley, but on the s/c pulley I can only get it on 7 of the 8 grooves - I cant get it over the last ridge. I don't want to use a screwdriver and bugger up the pulley. Any suggestions?
My observations of the kit are that it is of very, very high quality. The s/c mounting bracket is solid, and the instructions are very comprehensive and easy to follow.
Thanks to Jeff for coming by and his invaluable help - specially with the timing issue.
I hope to get her buttoned up sometime around lunchtime tomorrow, and then it is time for a nice, gentle test drive.
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Last edited by Rob Roy; 10-29-2006 at 08:10 PM.
#2
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Ken,
Back the tensioner threaded rod out a turn or so and then lock it back down. That should give you enough room to get the belt on. Just make sure you have enough threads seated in the bracket to be secure.
Have fun on that first drive--point it straight before you hammer it!
Jim
Back the tensioner threaded rod out a turn or so and then lock it back down. That should give you enough room to get the belt on. Just make sure you have enough threads seated in the bracket to be secure.
Have fun on that first drive--point it straight before you hammer it!
Jim
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Good luck on the 1st test drive. I admire the fact that you want an "easy" 1st run. Somehow, I think that if you are running correctly, it will be anything but.
And for Gods sake, post some pics of this process.
And for Gods sake, post some pics of this process.
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#5
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RPM and MPH have a nasty way of increasing the consequences of minor problems. I would do my testing in careful stages, starting it in the driveway, running it up to temp in the driveway, running it in the driveway going up 1000 rpm each cycle, drive it carefully around the block or up and down the street, find a spot where you wont get into trouble leaving some rubber on the pavement. Checking all over above and below between each of those steps.
If anything gets at all funny, stop the car and find out what it is, don't try to drive it home. Wow has that one gotten me into trouble.
If anything gets at all funny, stop the car and find out what it is, don't try to drive it home. Wow has that one gotten me into trouble.
#7
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Hey guys,
I have a question for you...I have been contemplating getting a 928 to complement my 930 and was unaware, until recently, that you could s/c a 928. Needless to say, this has piqued my interest.
How much do one of these kits cost? How much power can you expect with one of these properly installed/tuned on a 928?
Thanks for the responses.
-Cajun
I have a question for you...I have been contemplating getting a 928 to complement my 930 and was unaware, until recently, that you could s/c a 928. Needless to say, this has piqued my interest.
How much do one of these kits cost? How much power can you expect with one of these properly installed/tuned on a 928?
Thanks for the responses.
-Cajun
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#8
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Cajun,
Carl at 928 Motorsports sells the Murf kit. This is a stage one kit for around $5,500, and I believe it gives you around 410hp at the wheels (approx 480 at the crrank)
Carl at 928 Motorsports sells the Murf kit. This is a stage one kit for around $5,500, and I believe it gives you around 410hp at the wheels (approx 480 at the crrank)
#9
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Good for you Ken; have fun with the rest of the install.
Please post your first run impressions.............its snowing hard here and I need something to dream of for the next 4/5 months.
Och Aye
Please post your first run impressions.............its snowing hard here and I need something to dream of for the next 4/5 months.
Och Aye
#10
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Looks like you got the belt on OK. Unless you have help, you still have a lot to do: oil setup for the SC, fan kit installation and wiring, breather replumbing, plugging the MAF boot breather holes. The latter is one thing George S and I modified on his Murph kit when we installed it a couple of years ago. I'm not sure what is in the kit now, but we took the rubber plug and drilled it so we could use a thin bolt and some fender washers to compress it lengthwise so it would be extra snug in the MAF boot and have no chance of getting blown or sucked out. In fact, to do this, we had to find some different plugs at a hardware store. This has probably all changed in the evolution of the kit since, as Tim was making constant changes even as we were installing George's kit. I gather you are using stock injectors and no IC, so this certainly is doable in a day, but an extra pair of hands and eyes sure speeds this along and serve as a double-check on the install. You should be having so real fun soon enough. George is putting 438HP to the ground at sea level and has had the car up to 190 MPH at 5000 feet. Not bad at all.
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Last edited by Bill Ball; 10-29-2006 at 08:37 PM.
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Well, I finished. Car starts and runs, but no change in performance from stock. Bad shudder around 1200-1500 rpm. I don't have my boost gauge hooked up yet - need to do that tomorrow. . I am too tired to do anymore tonight, but will check for vacuum leaks tomorrow. I'll also call Tim for advice.
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Bill,
By the time I read your post I had the plugs installed and the intake closed up. I will focus on that area for leaks tomorrow.
Ken
By the time I read your post I had the plugs installed and the intake closed up. I will focus on that area for leaks tomorrow.
Ken
#14
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I don't know a thing about this specific kit, but in general the centrifugal type blowers feel pretty stock on the low end, most not reaching full rated boost until the air flow through the engine starts to reach its limits. This has a big plus side that nothing special may be required to tune the car below the serious boost range, so a wide open throttle tune may be all you have to do.
The twin screw, positive displacement types have full boost across the whole rpm band, so they pretty much have to having tuning compensation in the daily driver range, but they also have much lower charge air temperatures so 6 psi boost may not need more than a FMU.
Which you like best is a matter of personal driving style and preferences.
The twin screw, positive displacement types have full boost across the whole rpm band, so they pretty much have to having tuning compensation in the daily driver range, but they also have much lower charge air temperatures so 6 psi boost may not need more than a FMU.
Which you like best is a matter of personal driving style and preferences.
#15
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Ken, I had a similar experience. Make sure that plug in the throttle body rubber elbow is installed. If it is make SURE it is of correct orientation. Also make sure the maf elbow is very, very tight as it will pop off if not. Check your intake plumbing from the inner fender on up to the airbox connected to the charger. Make sure you removed the cardboard inside the K&N cone filter. Danglerb also has a point-almost. My murf 928 will reach 6psi within a couple seconds in 1st and if you can shift expertly it will not drop much between gear changes. I can assure you it starts building instantly and will reach full boost QUICKLY!
Kevin
Kevin