byrdman454

borland,
Is the relay carrier p/n listed in the first post the correct number? Were you able to get it? What part are you waiting on?

borland

You don't need the relay carrier, just one small connector that you'll find unfilled in the existing kickdown relay socket. I'm waiting for that part now.

The 6 position MAF type connector is used to replace the existing throttle valve switch connector. It just happens to be the same as the MAF connector (same number of pins). I bought that from JDS ($37 with shipping to California).

John Speake

Hi Mike
The new throttle switch has the same connector as the MAF. I can supply these.

69gaugeman

I have some of those connector pins on order. I will let you know when they come in

byrdman454

Borland,
Where did you get your relay kickdown and throttle switch? I just checked 928 SP and they are $72.30 for the relay and $138.55 for the switch. I like your prices better.

byrdman454

JDS, I forgot how you accept payment. Do you do Paypal? It has been a while since I bought the Spanner. Can you PM or email me prices with shipping to USA zip 63146?

Rod, I would like to get some of these connectors too, if you have extras. Please let me know.
Thanks!

borland

I purchased those from Sunset Porsche, a Dealer in the PNW. Those prices didn't include shipping. There are some other parts that I might need.

The mod requires replacing the kickdown relay with the later GTS verion. The new relay has one additional blade connector (the topic of this thread). From that connector, Schocki apparently ran the wire directly to the new replacement throttle-valve-switch, routing it along the engine wiring harness.

Because the relay socket connector is so fragile, I plan to wire it like the GTS fuse/relay panel (central electrics) was wired, by routing the relay pin to a harness/panel connector. The GTS used connector "V", pin 22. On my 90' S4, that pin is unfilled. However I plan to use one of the blades for unused connector "R", which is right near the kickdown relay.

Also, Schocki mentioned that the hardest part is running the wire through the firewall. While at this years Sharktoberfest, I noticed on Mark Anderson's race car, there's a penetration just to the right of the engine harness. Hard to see on my car, but there is a small cable running thru a grommet there. The engine harness runs throught the firewall, but makes a sharp 90 degree turn, so running a wire there is next to impossible.

I also plan to run the one wire inside the engine bay, like Schocki, along the engine wiring harness, but inside 1/4" convoluted tubing, attached with nylon stay-ties.

69gaugeman

I have received these connectors.

None in Westen hemisphere. What a pain.

Borland, there is a special tool to crimp these on so if you know how long the wire is that you need (or someone here can tell him / me) I will make up the wire for you. I assume 18 gauge wire will do as it is just a coil connection, right?.

Is this going to the other terminal that you wanted?

Dave and Alan, the connectors are $.40 each + shipping. Let me know how many you want.

Thanks,
Rod

borland

Rod,

Good to hear you've got those connectors.

The wire I'm adding, is for the back side of the relay/fuse panel, and will run from relay socket XVII (kickdown relay) to the "V" connector.

Yes, it's low current, so 18 guage wire, 9" in length would do nicely. Besides the relay socket terminal, the end of this wire needs to be a un-insulated 6.3mm female blade connector.

The other terminal I need is for the harness "V" connector plug. That’s for the end of the wire I’ve already added from the throttle-valve-switch. I can crimp that.

Thanks,

borland

Alan

Rod,
Yes - still in for the 50 - send me an email with paypall details and your total with shipping.

Good job - next time I need to find something oddball - I'm going to ping you first! & congrats on getting the window controller running...

My car is halfway through a major electrical refit (still running) - but I've been distracted with a new job and a bunch of website work - so not much progress.... yet (even though the weather is perfect for it)

These may come in handly for some of the upgrades.

Alan

byrdman454

Rod,
I am going to need the same thing as Borland. Can you make me a wire with the connector same as him? Let me know how much $$, etc, etc.

Thanks

Alan

Rod, Dave and others interested...

Rod do you happen to have terminals (Amp or otherwise equiv) for the CE Panel plugs? I have found that E-D/V-W-P 3-2050 types work as an equiv and are almost as good quality as the originals. I do still have a few of these left - but they are very expensive (>$2 retail). I will buy a bunch more in bulk - but seems you might be able to the get the original versions at a much better price?? Do you need any more?

Anyone else interested in going in on a combined buy for these? Dave?

Rod do you know what those are and if/where they are available? Else I'll investigate a price for a few hundred from V-W-P.

Alan

69gaugeman

Are you talking about the spade terminals that the coloured plugs, plug into?

If they are the same as the OB's I have them in stock as I use them when the window controller uses the existing switch.

Other wise I just need an original one (a very close-up with a metric ruler for scale might be enough) to source it.

Like I said before, something I have done a lot of, is source wierd connectors. You should try finding Honda 50 pin connectors. That is a lot of fun. lol

69gaugeman

Will this work for you?

Alan

Rod,
I'd call it a blade - but yes the color coded plugs (not sure if they are exactly the same as the earlier model ones (but the male blades are the same size).

I'm talking about the loom cable end shell terminals - they are female types, single sided spring retainer clip and split double spung terminal ends

I can photo one and the E-D equivalents I have been using. VW and Audi use the same type as Porsche on at least some of their later fuse panels too.

Alan